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Old 04-27-2015, 11:12 AM   #1
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Cummins Engine Protect light, Cummins ISB 5.9 24V (update)

Well apparently my old post was to old, so here is the followup for those looking for info on the 5.9 24V Cummins (ISB 275) overheating.

Old Thread about it can be found here.

Engine Protect light, cummins ISB 5.9 24V

Long awaited post for my issues, for those that might face similar issues.

Last week I pulled out the radiator and CAC and they were completely coated with oil and grease. the only place that was even pushing air was from the center of the fan in about a 8" diameter circle.

I searched for the oil leak that was the main cause of this whole issue. Narrowed it down to the seal where the air pump meets the block and can see the slick of fresh oil. Pulled everything out and replaced the seals.

I took the radiator and CAC in to have them tanked and flushed. Got a call after they looked at them and need to get a replacement radiator as the old one was not repairable do to a bunch of the fins being corroded and missing meaning the tubes would go next. ($680 for the new Radiator, installed back in the housing).

I also had a small crack in the CAC that was repaired and sealed. ($160 for the cleaning and repair).

Got the whole thing installed this weekend, no more oil leak and a lot better cooling with no restricted air flow for the radiator. I took the Motorhome for a drive up the closest long hill and with much improved results, temp never got above 205 degrees.

Weíll be taking the Motorhome out this weekend for some camping, Iíll report back after the longer road test.

The hardest part of the whole thing was finding all the bolts that needed to come out with all the grease that had built up on everything.

attached are a few pics. the last one is of the seal that was leaking oil.
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:24 AM   #2
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You've been having too much fun.

Cummins , says to clean rad and CAC , annually or 7500 miles on rear rad coaches; don't know if that would have helped your problems ; 17 years is about the end of the line, for an original rad , cleaned out or not.
I hope this repair cures your problem completely.
Safe Travels.
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Old 04-27-2015, 12:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
You've been having too much fun.

Cummins , says to clean rad and CAC , annually or 7500 miles on rear rad coaches; don't know if that would have helped your problems ; 17 years is about the end of the line, for an original rad , cleaned out or not.
I hope this repair cures your problem completely.
Safe Travels.
yes, I'll be keeping an eye on the leaks and be sure to keep the Radiator and CAC clean.

I can't say that it was maintained the best but the previous owner did say they were experiencing some overheating. I suspect they sold the Motorhome because of the cost to have the oil leak repaired and the radiators done in a shop.

I'm sure it would have run several thousand in labor plus parts. this is where a DIY guy like me can take care of the problem without spending what others might have to pay.

If I was more knowledgeable at the time I would have negotiated the price down a little more. the things you learn after the purchase.
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Old 04-27-2015, 07:53 PM   #4
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Thanks for posting you story and pictures.

I have the same engine and rear rad configuration on my 99 HR Endeavor. Is your chassis a Freightliner? Mine is and the model is X-line.

Where did you get your rad from. I may need to do mine this season.

How long did it take you to do the repair? How much trouble was it to remove the back cap bodywork to gain access to the cooling system. Did you replace any hoses.

Would love to hear all the details, as I'm probably going to go down the same road you have.

Thanks and nice work!!

BTW, my brother in law and I made a run to Knoxville TN from northern Ohio to pick up a used vehicle and I had a bit of overheating due to not topping off my coolant before the trip. Took a couple gallons of 50/50 and all was good. However, I'm loosing the coolant somewhere...
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:16 AM   #5
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Thanks for posting you story and pictures.

I have the same engine and rear rad configuration on my 99 HR Endeavor. Is your chassis a Freightliner? Mine is and the model is X-line.

Where did you get your rad from. I may need to do mine this season.

How long did it take you to do the repair? How much trouble was it to remove the back cap bodywork to gain access to the cooling system. Did you replace any hoses.

Would love to hear all the details, as I'm probably going to go down the same road you have.

Thanks and nice work!!

BTW, my brother in law and I made a run to Knoxville TN from northern Ohio to pick up a used vehicle and I had a bit of overheating due to not topping off my coolant before the trip. Took a couple gallons of 50/50 and all was good. However, I'm loosing the coolant somewhere...
Yes, I have a Freightliner Chassis, Iím not sure on the model of the chassis as Iím still working on getting all the info for my coach (Winnebago Cheiftain 36WL).

It wasnít terribly difficult and really only took 4 days to complete the work from tear down to complete reassemble. 2 of those days were getting parts and waiting for the CAC to be cleaned and welded and Radiator to done. They had the radiator in stock, my part number for the radiator is Freightliner # 1003451. If you want a good scare call FL and ask about prices. Yikes.

I had them done at A-1 Radiator here in Salt Lake City, they were great to work with, they do all Kinds of Radiators from cars all the way up to 400 ton earth haulers here at the copper mine. Pretty cool to see a radiator that was bigger than a pickup truck.

I didnít have to remove the back Cap from my Coach, I did have to remove the bumper assembly but that was very simple, 4 bolts and 6 screws was all. there is a separate tank on the top of the radiator the is removed with 4 bolts (2 front, 2 back) and the hoses disconnected to make it easier for the assembly to lift out over the bottom 2 bolts.

The shroud had 5 bolts holding it on, 1 has to be accessed from the inside and is behind the fan where the shroud meets the radiator in the middle. Two are on the top left and right sides. On the each side there are 4 bolts, but only 1 attaches the shroud to the radiator/cac assembly. The other 3 hold the CAC to the Radiator. The shroud needs to be loose from the radiator or you wonít be able to clear the fan and it wonít come out. Once the 5 bolts are out it should separate easy enough.

I did have to take off the Power steering Reservoir that hangs on the back of the radiator, as well as the Coolant overflow tank to get them out of the way.

I didnít replace any hoses, but did check them all out and they looked good, I also checked out the belts and made sure they were In good shape, they looked fine with no cracking so I didnít replace them. Some of the hoses had to be split to get off, but they had plenty of length to cut the ends off and still use them.

Once everything was out there was a lot of cleaning of oil and grease off everything.

Re assembly was pretty straight forward as once you see how everything comes out it makes sense on how it can go back in.
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:37 AM   #6
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Good info. Thanks for posting the details.

You did all the work, correct? Did A-1 Radiator only perform the CAC repair? I'm going to call Freightliner to get pricing and see if my part number is the same as yours. I expect they needed your VIN to get the right part...
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Good info. Thanks for posting the details.

You did all the work, correct? Did A-1 Radiator only perform the CAC repair? I'm going to call Freightliner to get pricing and see if my part number is the same as yours. I expect they needed your VIN to get the right part...
yes, We did all the work (my Dad and I) in my driveway. A-1 Radiator did the cleaning and repair of the CAC, as well as install the radiator into the surround housing the holds the radiator, if you look at the picture of the conbined radiator and CAC there is a metal surround the the radiator core mounts in, they cleaned and painted it as well as installed the core, so it was ready to go back into the coach.

here is the info to A-1 Radiator, http://www.a1radiator.com/salt_lake_city_shop.htm

Freightliner should be able to give you the info you need buy using the last 6 digits of the VIN that is what they asked me for when I called.

The pricing they gave me for the core was $2844.37, and $3953.47 for the core in a new housing. I didn't price the CAC as I didn't know it was leaking and it was repairable.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:29 AM   #8
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Wow, that is some large $$$ for a radiator. My Freightliner part number did not match yours: VAB1102073 at a cost of $1650.

I just called ERS in Maryland and got a price of $625 plus shipping for an import.

Motorhome Radiator-Freightliner Motorcoach-Core Dimensions: 35 x 25 1/8 x 2 1/4-201RA009-Marylands Largest Radiator Distributor Call 1-877-406-2702

If I did not have a lot of camping trips and vacations lined up, I'd be tearing the coach down for the repair. For now, I will just line everything up for the eventual replacement.

I guess if I could get my Cummins mechanic lined up to do this over a long weekend or max one week, I would do that. I would really rather have him with me to make this go good and quick. I left him a v/m to call me and have not heard back yet.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:49 AM   #9
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good luck when you get around to tackling your issue. if you have someone experienced it will help. that is why my Dad was helping me, he is a Truck Driver and former Diesel Mechanic so experienced with things like this. The guy at Cummins Salt Lake was very helpful as well with information.
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Old 05-08-2015, 03:48 PM   #10
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We took the Motorhome out last weekend and pulled some good grades getting to where we were going, Mostly the temps were down but I did have the light come on when pulling the big grade and was hitting 124į. I decided to get a new thermostat and replace the one that is in there. I've read from other post that it could be a factor as well and possible drop the temps 10 degrees. It's worth a try for sure. We are headed down south in a few weeks so I'll have some more feedback after that drive.

I decided to go with a factory one from Cummins and the original one has been updated to a 180į part number.
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Old 05-08-2015, 04:04 PM   #11
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Extend your slobber tube if you haven't done that yet.
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Old 05-08-2015, 04:26 PM   #12
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Glad to read you got it fixed. I had severe overheating on a trip to Branson. The fix was to clean the CAC and Radiator, Re-route the slobber tube, and changed coolant and thermostat. Not too many hills around here but my idle is at 182 and on the road at 60 and level road it runs 182 to 188. Looks like I am fixed to but I am headed to Tenn in few weeks. Based on how it runs now I don't think I will have any problems.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:06 PM   #13
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I haven't extended the slobber tube but I did make a catch can for it with steel wool in the bottom to catch any oil mist residue. Seems to work fine. Now that it's not leaking oil it should be a much better situation. I'll keep up with keeping it clean.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:34 AM   #14
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I haven't extended the slobber tube but I did make a catch can for it with steel wool in the bottom to catch any oil mist residue. Seems to work fine. Now that it's not leaking oil it should be a much better situation. I'll keep up with keeping it clean.
Just make sure you have the latest thermostat. The originals were bad news.
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