Cummins Fault CODE 2383 or 2384

[camping fam]

We have been a long time lurker and have learned so much from all of it has been a huge blessing. Now for the issue at hand we have a 2006 motorhome with a 300 ISB we got a CEL on April 14th and heard a clicking sound (before firing up our RV) coming from the turbo so turned everythng off called cummins did not strat the RV yet but called them and asked them what it could be they stated turbo actuator was probably stuck hung something asked if it was safe to drive they said yes to bring it in on monday and leave it they would look into it so Wed we here from the tech that the motorhome needs a new turbo I ask why and he replied that the turbo was showing a code 2384 I said okay we have Good Sam lets give them a call to see if it is covered (we had already called them on the 14th so they knew of the situation) Tech then tells us after he talked to them Wed afternoon that they wanted him to pull the turbo so they could send somebody to inspect the turbo and that I needed to authorize this I responded by saying hold up I thought you told me that the turbo only sent the code when it was running and that I had just drove the thing up there and that after we rolled down the street 100-200 feet the CEL went off and no other issues and that when I dropped it off the CEL was off again so how would pulling the turbo show that the 2384 code which according to my research is basically an electrical short for the turbo actuator then when talking with him today he has now said that the turbo is worn out i replied it only has 28000 miles on it all maintence has been done so then he changes the story to say that the code is 2383 which according to my research is also a faulty acctuator. The man seems like he is telling me one thing that the turbo is worn out and causing it to heat up and make it trip the code I do all my own maintence and there have been NO signs of any turbo damage. So as of now Good Sams is saying Deny on this claim but I can take it to another repair facility to have it checked out. So my questions are as follows Does anybody know what code 2383 or 2384 is? And if the turbo was worn out why is it okay for me to still drive it home or to another repair facility the tech said "Its electrial and it will short out and come back"

Any help would be great. Thanks

[gear-head]

hey camping fam
here is descrition of fault codes
2383 Variable Geometry Turbocharger Actuator Circuit - Current Below Normal, or Open Circuit
2384b VGT Actuator - Voltage Below Normal or Shorted to Low Source
the clicking noise you heard was the vgt actuator doing its self test and more likely failed.by code description you most likely have electrical issue with vgt actuator or its wiring or the vgt mechanical portion of turbo sticking
hope this helps

[camping fam]

Thanks Gear Head!!!

That is what I thought also I dont see where a turbo would be mechanically wore out at 28000 miles and thus making it a electronic failure in the turbo. Not a mechanical failure. or if it is mechanical it is from the turbo actuator being stuck. I wonder if I were to remove the exhaust if that would allow me access to the actuator.

[gear-head]

no removing the exhaust will not let access the actuator let me do some searching and i will post some pics

[gear-head]

Cummins VGT Variable Geometry Turbocharger
ok above link shows cut away of turbo but also while searching i came across a post by another isb owner that had turbo go bad because of engine coolant leak inside turbo damaging the electrical portion (turbo is cooled by engine coolant)
i would get a 2nd opinion

[gear-head]

ps play the little movie bottom left of page shows operation of vgt turbo

[camping fam]

WOW thank you so much for the help....

I really don't think the turbo is bad mechanically but I do think the electrical part of it is messed up or the actuator is binding wonder if I could lube it!!! hahaha I also think if it was mechanically "worn out" I would not be able to run 65-70 mph down the road. And I also think it is really dumb of the tech to say this "the code in the computer 2383 tells me it is worn out" I asked him if he checked the propeller thingy with a feeler gage for tolerances or noticed anything else he said "nope the computer said 2383 which tells him the turbo is heating up and making the actuator shaft not work" now this tells me exactly the opposite of what I experienced when it was cold it was clicking but when I drove off (thus heating up) it was fine NO CEL and not performance issues.

I wonder if this "CUMMINS ATLANTIC SHOP" is any good or if they are a bunch of parts replacers and along with that they want $474 for diagnosis time NOT gonna happen!!!!!!

[camping fam]

well after a lot of thinking I don't know what else to do the Good Sam "Gold" plan wont pay to fix it at this cummins shop as the cummins shop says its a mechanical problem and they say its electrical from the code and they say it is both electrical and mechanical they told good sam it was instontaniouis (sp?) Cummins wont do anything as we are 6 months out of warranty, but the shop manager says hey your not stuck in the water you can still use it on short trips which I don't understand but hey who am I but a customer who bought a new motorhome and thought I was buying a strong reputabile product and then to find out "Good Sam is a SCAM" as they confuse service tech people and no one will give a straight answer. I guess I should have listened to all the people on this forum who said extended warranties are PURE BS as they are. I did hear some good things but I just don't know why mine is being a problem. They have the shop so pissed they won't even talk to them.

I just wish it was something simple...... This is taking the fun out of Camping.

[Gutter Man]

Camping fam I have a 2005 with the cummins isb 300 and the vgt turbo. my turbo was also giving the same code on various trips and this is my observation. The turbo is not shot but sticking. My motor has an egr valve which runs exhaust gases through the intake of the motor to reburn thus adding more soot to the soot coming out of the exhaust. This soot may build up and cause the slide inside the turbo to stick and give you the fault code. At least this was the case for me. I only had around 15,000 miles when it occured the first time and has done it on and off with 23,000 miles now. I have traveled out west and just came back from florida with this thing acting up and now knowing what it is it will be just fine driving it. One thing I did do is disconnect my egr valve for the last 2500 miles and this was my experience. turbo actuator was sticking at the time of egr disconnect and would not let boost get over 20 psi. drove it to florida like this doing up to 75 mph with no problems. On the way back from florida I started up the coach and it was hissing air out the tailpipe along with the exhaust, or I could say whistling loudly. Now my boost was reaching over 30 psi and I had very slow take off, but when getting speed up it would take off very quickly. This makes me thing the slider ring on the variable turbo is stuck in full boost position. it stayed like that all day or about 500 miles, even after a few stops and motor shut downs. We stayed overnight in northern Miss and started on our way the next morning. let the motor warm up as I alway do and everything was normal. boost never went over 25 for the rest of the trip and worked perfectly with no sticking for two more days of travel. And by perfectly I mean it has never worked this good before. I think by disconnecting the egr there is less soot buildup and it finally cleaned itself out. not to mention it seems to run smoother. I am not sure if you have an egr valve motor or not. One thing you need to do with the vgt turbo is use your engine brake as often as possible. evertime you use the engine brake it slides that ring in the turbo to shut off air to the motor which keeps it free and working properly. This is a common problem and is nothing you have to worry about.

[camping fam]

Thanks Gutter Man I have been researching issues with the VGT turbo and I found that on the Dodge Cummins trucks they are having a problem with nozzel rings sticking and they say there is a service bulletin to drill a small hole in the exhaust side of the turbo and tap it so that they can spray cleaner in there to get the soot out. And yes they say on the trucks it is from the EGR valve issues. Thank you again for your reply and if it comes down to it we will open the turbo up ourselves and clean the soot out don't know all the little parts yet but I found a lot of help from Derek at dieselperformanceparts.com he really went above and beyond to look on the Holset web page to help me figure this out even more. The Cummins shop did say I was not dead in the water but they still think there are issues in the turbo acctuator I still think I got bad fuel at a small station in the middle of no where and it has funked up my motor not bad enough to clog injectors but just funky enough to make it run weird and do funny things.

[Perry White]

You might want to check if you need a ECM update. Mine wasn't updated from 6-05 so I updated my ISM to the last update which was in 2010. Went from .19 to .28 so there was 9 different updates sine 06. Fixed the low coolant alarm. And false EGR alarm. If you had your ECM number I could look up the updates for you.

[monkeywrench]

I am having all the same problems with my turbo, fault code 2383, etc. Turbo was just replaced 4K miles ago but sat for a year since we were in the process of moving, so it is out of warranty. I am already out $700 for the diagnostic tests with no repair done. Now they want to replace the turbo again at my expense. Lousy situation! I am interested in the thread about disconnecting the EGR. Did you just unplug the actuator motor? Was there any downside to performance? Seems that would set a code also. Thanks

[monkeywrench]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gutter Man Camping fam I have a 2005 with the cummins isb 300 and the vgt turbo. my turbo was also giving the same code on various trips and this is my observation. The turbo is not shot but sticking. My motor has an egr valve which runs exhaust gases through the intake of the motor to reburn thus adding more soot to the soot coming out of the exhaust. This soot may build up and cause the slide inside the turbo to stick and give you the fault code. At least this was the case for me. I only had around 15,000 miles when it occured the first time and has done it on and off with 23,000 miles now. I have traveled out west and just came back from florida with this thing acting up and now knowing what it is it will be just fine driving it. One thing I did do is disconnect my egr valve for the last 2500 miles and this was my experience. turbo actuator was sticking at the time of egr disconnect and would not let boost get over 20 psi. drove it to florida like this doing up to 75 mph with no problems. On the way back from florida I started up the coach and it was hissing air out the tailpipe along with the exhaust, or I could say whistling loudly. Now my boost was reaching over 30 psi and I had very slow take off, but when getting speed up it would take off very quickly. This makes me thing the slider ring on the variable turbo is stuck in full boost position. it stayed like that all day or about 500 miles, even after a few stops and motor shut downs. We stayed overnight in northern Miss and started on our way the next morning. let the motor warm up as I alway do and everything was normal. boost never went over 25 for the rest of the trip and worked perfectly with no sticking for two more days of travel. And by perfectly I mean it has never worked this good before. I think by disconnecting the egr there is less soot buildup and it finally cleaned itself out. not to mention it seems to run smoother. I am not sure if you have an egr valve motor or not. One thing you need to do with the vgt turbo is use your engine brake as often as possible. evertime you use the engine brake it slides that ring in the turbo to shut off air to the motor which keeps it free and working properly. This is a common problem and is nothing you have to worry about.

Not sure how this reply works, but I am curious about your disconnected EGR. Did you just unplug the actuator motor or more? Did that set codes too? Have you left it unplugged forever? My new turbo has only 4K miles on it and they want to replace it again for another $4200. I also have a Dr Diesel module on there to enhance the performance from a stop sign. It increases the fuel rail pressure. Wasn't worth the money and I have not had it turned on since the new turbo was installed, but it definitely added a little more black smoke during the rollout. Sounds like a really bad thing for this turbo design. Would appreciate hearing from you on the EGR issue. I am in limbo with this repair.

[jlfbatonrg]

Does anyonr know what year Cummins came out with the VGT?