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Old 10-25-2019, 05:46 AM   #1
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Cummins ISC Power Module Upgrade (+20%) Turned My 350HP Into 420HP ($700)

I have a 2004 Itasca Horizon (40AD) with a 2003 Cummins-ISC-350HP (CAPS Injection System) and this summer I "Chipped" my ride and then took a 3,000 mile trip to see if I would be satisfied or not. And I'm please to report:

NO Problems!
Great acceleration!
Less engine vibration & noise!
Hard to keep my highway seeds under 70 MPH!
Better MPG! (I use to get 7.2 MPG pulling a toad, and now I get 8.0-8.5 MPG.)

I like to say: "Buy it for the ponies! ...But keep if for the extra MPG!"

Buy direct: https://www.agdieselsolutions.com/pe...ule-12100.html

Before you purchase you should call AG Diesel direct if you have questions, but here's basically all you need to do:

1) Access the top of your engine.

2) Un-plug 2 connectors to your CAPS Injector Pump and then "T-in" your AG "Power Module". They provide the male-female connectors. Easy... peasy!

3) Run a power and ground wire to your engine battery.

4) Close it up... And take a drive.

Instantly, you will hear a quieter engine at idle and you will feel the extra acceleration before you even get on the highway. In fact, you will most notice the power during acceleration (faster torque response) between 30-50 MPH; and then you notice you are doing 70 MPH and not your go to speed of 63 or 65 MPH.

In simple terms, the AG Power Module intercepts your ECM signals and does not in anyway flash your ECM. The AG Power Module then communicates with your CAPS Injection system to change the duration of the injection timing. This results in a more efficient fuel burn, which you feel as acceleration and which you can verify by taking MPG measurements.

As you can see in the attached picture, my 2003 Cummins-ISC-350HP-CAPS engine was putting-out 347 HP on the dyno; and after we installed the AG Power Module the engine was peaking at 420 HP. That's a 20% true increase in HP and torque "at the wheels" as verified on the Dyno.

CAUTION: We can't say for sure, but we think you should not add more HP to your engine until you first replace your Cummins stock Lift Pump with a FASS or AirDog Lift Pump. There are several reasons for this. So please look into this upgrade first.

See this link on how we upgraded to a FASS "Titanium" Electric Pump:

Cummins ISC - Engine Starts But Then Quits & Why We Upgraded To FASS TS Pump!!!!

BACK TO THE BENEFITS OF INSTALLING THE AG POWER MODULE (#12100)

After 3,000 miles in various road conditions, we were very careful on how we topped-off our fuel tank in-between fill-ups. For example, we always leveled our RV (which is easy with the HWH Active Air System on our coach) and then topped-off the tank to the point we could see the diesel fuel pool-up in the filler-neck. This meant we could compare our "real-MPG" to the "real time-MPG" reading we got from our Trip-Tek computer in our dash.

Results:

* 10-15% increase in highway fuel mileage. We use to get 7.0 MPG to 7.4 MPG (pulling a toad) and after we "Chipped" our engine we got on 8.0 to 8.5 MPG.

* We also use to get better gas mileage and always ran at 55-60 MPH to optimize for MPG, but the after we "Chipped" our ride, we instantly got 8-8.5 MPG and that was doing 63-70 MPH.

Skeptical? We were too. But after many fill-ups the results speak for themselves. We think this has to do with more torque and a different "power curve" resulting in a higher optimal speed setting.

* We all know that that drag (air and surface) affect MPG the most, but they also say: "It all comes down to weight vs. HP." And since we did not increase the RV weight, but did increase the HP, my guess is that the optimal power curve changed with respect to MPG; and the result is that we now can travel faster without sacrificing MPG. At least that's what I think is going on.

NOTE: Trust me on this. I factored in wind and road conditions and fuel type (B-20 vs B-5 vs #2 diesel) on each leg we traveled (Indiana to Canada to Maine and back to Texas), and every time I my records indicated better gas mileage... except when I was in Maine traveling over many hills and country roads; and I think that was because my foot was always on the gas pedal.

My my other point is that when you have more HP you tend to have a "heavier foot." Therefore, you need to be more careful when "Chipping" your engine.

Note: There seems to be no penalty for "chipping" your engine by using this Ag-Diesel-Power-Chip; however, we cannot speak for other brands. We can tell you that if you start driving at 70+MPH you will burn more engine oil, and you should check under you engine for more "blow-by". But these are minor compared to the benefits!

The parent company of Agricultural Diesel Solutions is called Power System Innovation and they have been putting performance chips in farm tractors for years. They have also built a solid reputation in their Indiana farm community; and they are just now introducing their products to the RV market.

The #12100 Power Module now has a lower price too. Only $710. And the best part is that the installation is very, very easy. So easy, almost anyone can do it in 2 hours or less, with most of the time just accessing your engine in a Winnebago RV with Freightliner Chassis.

As you can see in the attached Dyno graph, our Cummins-ISC-350HP is now putting out 420HP; and if you chip your engine you will FEEL THE DIFFERENCE IMMEDIATELY!

Before you order, we recommend you call Power Systems Innovations at 812-618-9166 to verify the part number for your type of engine.

Last but not least: The #12100 Power Module does not have a selector switch at this time. This switch will allow you to pick your desired HP/torque increase. So you might want to wait for this next revision. However, we think 20% increase is all you need or will ever want; and you not want to mess around with a selector switch; other than to prove your power module is still working. (People get use to HP and then want more.)

When we installed our 12100 in our RV last September-2019, we did so at the Power Systems Innovations shop in Newburgh, Indiana; and we put our RV on their Dyno; and we found is that a total of 420HP is all you need for a 32,000 lb. coach (pulling a toad).

In addition, if your RV has an Allison 3000 transmission you will be okay with a 20% increase in HP. However, we don't know where the upper limit is.

Remember: Before you add more HP to your CAPS injection system, you really should upgrade to a FASS "Titanium" pump first.

Save travels.

PS

Next season will probably remove our stock muffler and add a 5050XL Muffler/Resonator. We think that will add more HP too, but mostly we are looking at this upgrade because it will be good for the engine. (Cost $250 if we do it ourselves or $450 if we take it to a shop.)

https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Turbine...2002180&sr=8-1
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Old 10-25-2019, 07:20 AM   #2
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Looks like a nice upgrade. I wonder if I could do this on my 2000 8.3 ISC?
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Old 10-25-2019, 02:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Jones View Post
Looks like a nice upgrade. I wonder if I could do this on my 2000 8.3 ISC?
Your year CAPS era ISC, is covered by the same product... Drill down thru the Performance Kit, and you will see it goes back as far as 98.5 for the ISC.

Smitty

https://www.brazelsrv.com/ISC-83L-IS...erformance-Kit
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Old 10-25-2019, 02:33 PM   #4
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imnprsd - Thanks for the info sharing!

What RPM's were involved on the HP chart you shared? (Understood the HP on the left side, what/how do the lower numbers relate to RPM?

And, do you have a Torque Curve comparison available too? From you understanding, how is the Torque Curve changed with this module?

Last question. You mentioned a possible new module coming out, that will allow selection of influence from the module on power. Do you know if this will be a Cockpit Control module? Have to go to the actual plug in module to make the change? Or somewhere in between, with a shorter harness that controls the module? (Mounted in the engine bay, can or up in say the bedroom area?).

OK - the real last question. Do you have a EGT gauge, if so, any adverse temp creep, where you've had to back out of the pedal? (The MP-8 unit, with the 0-9 Cockpit Control, had a few owners reporting they had to back off, and a few actually removed the module - due to EGT levels. (Those were usually on Common Rail and VGT ISL's, but I know one gent that tried about a 50 miles test run with the MP8 on his CAPS era ISL, the unit seemed to 'miss' (His term, not mine.) so he had it removed by the shop. This same shop, shared that some of the harness pins would sometimes require adjusting, and that by spending sometime with the unit, they could usually dial it in for a specific engine. This gent did not have the time to do this... And yes, this shop is now selling the same module you have noted, no longer selling the MP8.)

You were at the source, and from your few write up's sharing info - suspect you've asked/heard some good info...

TIA, and best,
Smitty
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Old 10-25-2019, 07:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Jones View Post
Looks like a nice upgrade. I wonder if I could do this on my 2000 8.3 ISC?
I would disagree with the after post. 2008 and up is EP07 engine and uses HPCR system. They do have the correct unit, the 2009 is the same for 2008. Only concern would be EGT's climbing with the addition of fuel. I installed a Bully Dog tuner and a EGT. Cummins stated in stock condition should be max 1100-1200 degrees. I'm running hotter.
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Old 10-25-2019, 08:18 PM   #6
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I agree, with a performance upgrade like this, a pyrometer is a must. On my stock ISL, pulling a grade, at full boost, my EGT will go over 1300 F. I have my warning light set to come on at 1250 F. I find myself having to ease off the throttle to keep down the temperature. I donít know if these modules read the EGTís and back off the fueling, so a pyrometer would be useful.

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Old 10-25-2019, 09:43 PM   #7
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Allison transmission specs. Looks like your HP increase is over the limit for the Allison 3000.
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Old 10-25-2019, 11:42 PM   #8
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Good Feedback...

THIS IS A VERY NICE UPGRADE!

However, I would like to reiterate that I do not recommend "Chipping" your ISC-CAPS engine until you first upgrade to a FASS "Tiatanium" electric fuel pump (aka Lift Pump) with 2 additional filters. (See previous link on how to do this.)

I'm also glad you mentioned Brazel's Performance RV located in Centralia, WA. I call these guys and believe they are one of the best RV repair shops you can find. However, they tried to push me on just installing a FASS 95 GPH, Dodge Lift Pump, without filters -- and I wanted the newer "Titanium" model for all of it's advantages. And since I could not convince them to "reinvent the wheel" ...their words not mine; I was forced to undergo the upgrade myself. (In my Montana campground, because I was staying there for 2 months. ...That and because Brazel's did NOT tell me to tighten my 3 lift pump bolt... after I told them my engine started, but would not keep running.)

So yes... I clearly used Brazel's website information to guide me on what to upgrade on my RV; only I decided I wanted the FASS "Titanium Pump" and they would not install it for me. And since the FASS upgrade was so successful, I decided to "Chip" my ride; and I found myself driving to Indiana to work with the crew and the product designer of the Ag-Diesel "Truck Edition" #12100 for my ISC-CAPS engine. And to be frank, I probably would not have do this if they were not so helpful and offered to put my RV on their dyno to prove their module works! ...And it does.

So let's say you "Chipped" your engine, like I did. What's next? I think you should then replace the exhaust manifold with the 5" 5050XL Resonator/Muffler. This not an expensive upgrade and you can do it yourself too.

You can also by the 5050XL on Amazon for $100-$150 (with shipping) and install yourself with some clamps for $40.

I also think his will address your concerns about EGTs... even though most of us do not have an EGT. Besides, if you are concerned you can always "ease off the pedal."

I read somewhere: "Your engine can't eat... what it can't poop!"

Make sense? As for downside, your engine will sound louder, but it's a lower frequency that should not bother you while driving; and the only noise will be when you are accelerating fully, which does not happen very often in residential areas.

https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Turbine...s%2C250&sr=8-1


Truckers are known for running a straight pipe after the turbo, so you might say they know what your engine wants, but the next best thing is to replace your heavy and restrictive OEM muffler with a 5050XL Resonator... which has been around for over 10 years. Note: Previously Aero XL the company was bought by Jones Turbine.

As for showing torque curves of my engine on Ag-Diesel's Dyno, I will do that as soon as I can. My RV is in storage so I have to request these graphs from Ag-Diesel Solutions. So please be patient.
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Old 10-25-2019, 11:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
THIS IS A VERY NICE UPGRADE!

First I would like to reiterate that I do not recommend "Chipping" your ISC-CAPS engine until you first upgrade to a FASS "Tiatanium" electric fuel pump (aka Lift Pump) with 2 additional filters. (See previous link on how to do this.)

This is just a precaution, because fuel flow also implies lubrication and cooling for your CAPS injection pump. But to be clear, if you have a CAPS system you would upgrade to a FASS pump irregardless if you "Chip" your engine or not!!!

So let's say you "Chipped" your engine, like I did. What's next? I think you should then replace the exhaust manifold with the 5" 5050XL Resonator/Muffler you can acquire on Amazon for $100-$150 (with shipping) and install yourself with some clamps for $80. This will address your concerns about EGTs... even thought you do not have an EGT,.. because it's like this: "Your engine can't eat... what it can't poop!"

Make sense?

https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Turbine...s%2C250&sr=8-1


Truckers are known for running a straight pipe after the turbo, which act as a muffler of sorts, but obviously your engine will sound louder. So the next best thing is to replace your heavy and restrictive OEM muffler with a 5050XL Resonator... which has been around for over 10 years. Aero XL is now Jones Turbine.

As for showing torque curves of my engine on Ag-Diesel's Dyno, I will do that as soon as I can. My RV is in storage so I have to request these graphs from Ag-Diesel Solutions. So please be patient.
I think you misunderstood the concerns about EGT. EGT stands for Exhaust Gas Temperature. What you describe is EGR, Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Yes, CAPS does not have EGR systems, but EGT is a real issue.
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:07 AM   #10
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Can you prove it? EGT that is?

I use to fly small aircraft and know how to lean a Continental engine using EGT's. However, we are talking about Cummins engines (valves, turbos, exhaust system, pistons/rods/chrank)...

So explain it to all of us: Why are you concerned about EGTs?

I believe you, but what evidence do you have?

My ISC-350HP engine uses the same components as the ISL-400HP. The ISL just has a longer stroke. And after I "Chipped" my engine I now see 420HP on the Dyno.

So I/we would like to hear from all you naysayers about EGT concerns and Allison 3000 concerns.

DON'T SMACK IT! PROVE IT!
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:11 AM   #11
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Even with a stock setup, foot to the floor in an improper gear can cause higher than acceptable exhaust temps. This will not affect most rvers because the damage from high egt's for short periods will not damage the engine in the average mileage a rv'er does. I have had "foolers" and hp upgrade kits in all my motorhomes and trucks. They do increase fuel flow and hp/torque, but also increase egt's. I believe anytime you modify your fuel system, you should have a pyrometer to monitor exhaust temps. I always do, and have seen high temps often, and have to back off on the throttle to bring the temps back down to reasonable levels. I also install free flow resonators at the same time, but temps will still go to dangerous levels, so you still need a pyrometer.
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:47 AM   #12
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OP Clarification - My Engine Type

To clarify, this a list of my equipment:

2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD
2003 Cummins ISC-350HP (CAPS Injection)
3000MH Allison Transmission

No EGT.

Stock muffler... I plan to upgrade to a 5050XL Resonator next season.

Yes... I agree it takes time for EGT to affect your engine component, but I supose the turbo may be a factor.

Note: After I "Chipped" my ride the Manifold Pressure (MP) increased from 24.5 to 26" max.

As for my driving style, I rarely "floor it." And I would always recommend easing into your max power range whenever possible. I like to treat my engine nice!

So while I am not overly concerned about EGTs ; nor do I feel I am exceeding my Allison 3000MH torque range, this is only because ISC-350HP engine.

Do you ISL-400HP owners have a Allison 3000 or 4000 tranny? I.e., if you have a 3000MH Allison and are putting-out 400HP then I know I'm covered in my power range... given these are conservative numbers.

This thread is specific to ISC-350HP engines. And up until recently your only options were to flash your ECM and/or run some sort of "Banks" setup.

From my experience, and I have only drivin 3,000 mile, which is good enough for me, I am very happy with the FASS upgrade and the Ag-Diesel #12100 Performance Module upgrade. In fact, I recommend it!

However, if you are going to go to all this effort, then you might as well upgrade to a 5050XL Resonator too!

In fact, after driving over 40,000 miles in the last 5 years, I wish I did all these upgrades long ago! Why didn't I? ...Because the FASS Titanium pump and AG-Diesel Solution Performance Module were both just released in 2019!

...I also went to the trouble of installing a Fuel Pressure gauge so I can read my fuel pressure from the cockpit. I could have just put a gauge on top of my filter housing for $25 (and you should). So yes... it makes perfect sense that you should install an EGT gauge you can monitor from your dash, but after a while (my guess) is that you will not pay any attention to it!

...Like I said, if you are concerned about EGT then you should definitely remove your old muffler and install a 5050XL Resonator.

There was a question about the newer versions of Ag Diesel's #12100 coming out with a selector switch. I was told they plan to do this, but I do not know when. However, it will not be remote mounted in the cockpit so you can see it in your dash. That effort is very involved since your engine is over 35 feet away. So if Ag Diesel offers a selector switch to choose between 10%, 20% or 30% HP increases over stock... then it will be located in the engine compartment.

Note: The only real reason they want to include a selector switch is because owners get use to the HP increase and over time they call support complaining they think the power model is not working anymore. So if they provide you with a selector switch you can effectively disable the power module... Ag Diesel feel this will save them a lot of tech support calls.

We think 10% HP is too little HP increase and 30% would be too much. So the sweet spot we are satisfied with is 20% HP which also corresponds to 20% increase in torque.

As for the graphs... If you look close you will see the stages the transmission shifts while the Dyno records HP as a function of time. This means I basically stepped on the pedal (HARD) so that the engine was under maximum load all though the 6 gears... and then you can see the graph "fall off" when I pulled my foot off the throttle.

What you want to look at is the "slope" of each shifting range... compared to stock... and then you notice the length of shifting range is longer. ... And this is what you will feel "on the road."

Of course, you will not "floor-it," but you will feel a noticeable acceleration difference after you "Chip" your ride. And the upside is better MPG!

So you can also think of a 10% increase in MPG like this: Every time you fill your tank with $200, you are putting $15 back in your pocket.
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Old 10-26-2019, 01:13 AM   #13
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Comment about Mile Per Gallon (MPG)

Now that I have showed what my Trip-Tek computer is reading before I "Chipped" my engine vs. after I "Chipped" my engine; I now need to explain why I was getting 10MPG in "real time" vs. the good old method of determining MPG by filling up the tank all the way and recording MPG by keeping track of the miles driven.

So I ran this question by the Ag-Diesel designer, and basically this is how he answered the discrepancy between what Trip-Tek was showing me on the display vs. what my real MPG was after I calculated it by hand:

* The ECM is always doing it's thing and is unaffected by the Ag Diesel #12100 Power Module.

* The Trip-Tek on-board computer reads ECM and transmission data to determine miles traveled.

* However, the CAPS injection system is being controlled by the magic in the "black box." So the ECM thinks it is sending "x" amount of fuel to the Stator which then distributes fuel to each cylinder; and the transmission sensors are calculating more miles driven. ...So the net affect is a higher MPG readout on the Trip-tek computer.

==> In reality, your real MPG is not going to be 10.0 MPG (as shown) after you "Chip" your engine when you were only getting 7.2 MPG before you "Chipped" your engine.

..But you will see a 10-15% increase in MPG and that's significant!

It's true:

* Before I "Chipped" my engine I would get 7.0 - 7.4 MPG (pulling a toad) on average.

* After "Chipping" my engine I drove 3,000 miles and filled my tank many times. I did this whenever I found the terrain changed or when I knew the wind was blowing differently.

I did this because my goal was to arrive at a "real MPG value" I could state with confidence to everyone on this forum and for my only knowledge. And I know get between 8.0 - 8.4 MPG on average. And that's a 10-15% increase!

Note: The roads form South Indiana to Chicago are very flat and under no wind conditions my best Trip-Tek MPG was 10.0 MPG. In reality this was equivalent to 8.6 MPG, which is amazing for my rig!

Final comments on MPG Trip-Tek readings: After you "Chip" your engine you will get artificially high MPG on your Trip-Tek screen. The real MPG will be less.

==> When you look at these Trip-Tek pictures, besides looking at MPG, please notice the number of miles driven and the average speed.

Notice I drove 428 miles, over 7.3 hours, at 57MPH on average, and Trip-tek was recording 9.4 MPG for this time.

Two things are worth noting here:

1) When you average 57 MPH over 7+ hours of driving and you stop several times along the way, I'm telling you was driving 65-70MPH most of the time and at times 75MHP.

2) I was not getting 9.4 MPH overall. ...But I did get 8.1 MPH on this leg when I hand calculated it. Which is awesome!


And after many more MPG comparisons, I can honestly say this: You not only will you get higher MPG after you "Chip" your engine, you also will get higher MPG when driving faster on the highway!
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Old 10-26-2019, 09:44 AM   #14
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You are wondering why EGTs are something to worry about? This is a result of too high exhaust temperatures:
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