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Old 08-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
Pigman....Yeah.....I just don't understand how someone can still be in business when they make it so hard to buy their product. I do like the stuff. My coach runs about 5 degrees cooler.
Your gauge might say it is 5 degrees less but the only way that can be true is that the amount of glycol in the coolant is less in FC premix as compared to conventional coolant premix. Or you had a high percent glycol content before you changed it. It is NOT due to the OAT inhibitor package.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:47 PM   #16
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I have the Detroit Diesel Power Cool Plus sitting in my shed just waiting for me to get all the new hoses bought to do the changeover. However, Pacific Power in Ridgefield WA had to order it from another of their shops. I could get the Power Cool Plus cheaper than Final Charge and easier to find too.

Question for Gary: Since I'm completely draining the system and replacing all the rubber hoses in the cooling system do I need to use a cleaner before replacing the coolant?
Plan to drain the old stuff, flush with tap water, replace the hoses and refill in that order.
Mr. D,

No, unless you have an identifiable problem just drain, flush with tap water and refill. Remember that there will be hold back water in the system as it is nearly impossible to get all the coolant out on a drain out. So, you need to fill half the system capacity with concentrate coolant first, then top off the rest of the capacity with the water of your choice. If you refill the system with premix only, you will end up with a lower concentration of additives that you need plus your freeze point will be higher than you expect.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:50 PM   #17
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Mr. D,

No, unless you have an identifiable problem just drain, flush with tap water and refill. Remember that there will be hold back water in the system as it is nearly impossible to get all the coolant out on a drain out. So, you need to fill half the system capacity with concentrate coolant first, then top off the rest of the capacity with the water of your choice. If you refill the system with premix only, you will end up with a lower concentration of additives that you need plus your freeze point will be higher than you expect.
Yep, my system holds 12 gallons, I have 6 gallons of the concentrated DD stuff. That's why Pacific Power had to get it in from another shop, they had the premix in stock.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:50 PM   #18
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When you do a good flush, you need to drain it all, do a tap water flush, THEN fill with distilled water, drain, fill, drain, and repeat quite a few times to get it as close to 100% distilled as you can. Then you drain as much distilled one more time, refill with HALF your total capacity of 100% coolant, and top off with distilled. That will yield a 50/50 mix.
You must enjoy working on it more than using it! Let me know how you got ALL the hold back coolant out. That would be something I never learned in my years as a field service engineer doing coolant field testing among a few other aspects of my job.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:54 AM   #19
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You must enjoy working on it more than using it! Let me know how you got ALL the hold back coolant out. That would be something I never learned in my years as a field service engineer doing coolant field testing among a few other aspects of my job.
I didn't, but I got a heck of a lot more than a single flush with tap water.
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:24 PM   #20
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"spike45"....... I read a lot of your posts and you always provide good info. But as I typically find with engineers, it's either black or white or it didn't happen. I know my coach and monitor temps via a laptop every minute that my coach is running. My coach dropped five degrees running the OAT coolant. I also like the OAT coolant because I don't have to do the strips and hope I get the mixture correct.

Now.....this will really blow your mind.....with Oat coolant, it doesn't need/care if it has a radiator cap to maintain pressure.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:27 PM   #21
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"spike45"....... I read a lot of your posts and you always provide good info. But as I typically find with engineers, it's either black or white or it didn't happen. I know my coach and monitor temps via a laptop every minute that my coach is running. My coach dropped five degrees running the OAT coolant. I also like the OAT coolant because I don't have to do the strips and hope I get the mixture correct.

Now.....this will really blow your mind.....with Oat coolant, it doesn't need/care if it has a radiator cap to maintain pressure.
And how is that? I've only read of Evan's waterless doing that. Water, by physics, expands when heated. So I can run my system without a pressure cap, but it won't maintain pressure.
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:57 PM   #22
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I wonder if I have a problem and don't know it?

I had the system drained, flushed once with tap water, and then two times with distilled water that I provided to the shop. We have a hydro-hot loop, and doubt that got fully cleared out as part of the flushing process (may have).

I provided 50/50 mix of Final Charge, and that is what the used to fill things backup. Did not even think about using a few gallons of 100% final charge...

I went by my local Napa, where I bought the Final charge, and asked about test strips. Blank stare, and a few minutes of fumbling around in a catalog with another blank stare - sent me home with none. (The main supply center is available, and that crew at Napa always seems to be a bit more on the ball.) Same comment about 100%, he said all they carry is the 50/50?

We're planning a 3,000 mile trip, and I will not have time to get test strips before I go...

How about it, could I damage the engine bad in 3,000 if the mix is a little on the soft side?

I figure when I get home, I can drain 4-5 gallons out, and top it off with 100% when I can find it.

Opinions welcomed, and appreciated,
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Old 09-08-2013, 02:36 PM   #23
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Smitty77- Final Charge 100% has been very hard to find...2 Local shops, carry the full strength Detroit Diesel Power Cool Plus Extended Life OAT Coolant. Final Charge customer support said DD PowerCool Plus is made by them and is identical to Final Charge.
As per Gary-(spike45) Not all OAT coolants are compatible.....
I think your ISL needs cavitation protection so the strength of your coolant may be important.
FWIW -
Not very scientific but I measured 4 ounces of pure Final Charge 50/50, reading was -40 deg. With a bulb type antifreze tester. Added 2 ounces distilled water, reading dropped to -20, 2 more ounces and it read +10deg...(now a 25% mixture) You may be able to get a very rough idea of your coolants concentration. Use your fresh Final Charge and hygrometer as a baseline and then measure what you drain from your radiator. (numbers would only indicate weaker/stronger and I don't know how valid it is...)
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:03 PM   #24
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Hydrometer testing of Final Charge is 'iffy' at best due to the high % OAT inhibitors skewing the freeze point. Go to a Cummins distributor and ask them to measure the freeze point with their refractometer. it is a small optical instrument that looks like like a little telescope. It will give a closer reading. Final Charge premix will never show -34F for a 50/50 premix due to the high inhibitor content. I do not think you are in danger of engine damage. Report back what the freeze point is. You can also use Fleetguard CC2602B single test strip to get an approximation of the freeze point. It measures glycol content with the bottom pad on the strip. Use the reference card to see what the freeze point is. It is NOT real accurate but will give you some idea.
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