First C8.3 oil change

[JWLSC]

I have done my share of oil changes and DIY maintenance and repairs over the last 35 years. But this is my guest diesel engine I will be doing regular maintenance on. Are their any tips tricks or precautions that you can share.

[FormerBoater]

Originally Posted by JWLSC

I have done my share of oil changes and DIY maintenance and repairs over the last 35 years. But this is my guest diesel engine I will be doing regular maintenance on. Are their any tips tricks or precautions that you can share.

I would take a ride over to Speedco's Duncan SC location, get all items including genset serviced and the oil analysis.

I doubt you could buy the oil and filters for what they will charge you.

Also, you can stay right in the bay and observe everything!

No appt needed, in and out in an hour, stress free!

[jacwjames]

I do my own oil changes, lube and inspections. I can save money doing it myself besides making sure my coach is A-OK.

I usually keep several sets of oil & fuel filters on hand. I will check the internet for pricing including shipping. I can usually find good prices, better then I could buy locally at the Cummins shop. I can buy an oil filter for $26 with shipping, fuel filters are ~$18 & $30, sometimes cheaper if you buy in bulk.

I keep an eye out for oil on sale, I use Valvoline Blue which Auto Zone usually has on sale for ~$13/gal. I need 5 gallons do do an oil change so the cost of the oil is ~$75 with tax.

So the cost of the oil and filters are ~$150 if I do it myself.

When I change my oil I use a 5 gallon bucket with a plastic bag. The bucket will hold what is in my engine, once drained I tie the plastic bag up to prevent spilling. I put a cover on it when done and take it to a person that has an oil burning stove for heat.

I prefill the oil filter and fuel filters before installation.

~2 years ago I had the front hubs converted to oil bath so there is no need to have to have the front repacked anymore. The cost of this was about the cost of a repack.

I due a complete greasing 2 times per year. I know where all the zerk fittings are and it doesn't take that long.

I change the air dryer filter every 3 years, costs ~$35

I have read of several problems with different chassis issues with the roadmaster chassis. I do a complete inspection of the rear axle supports as there has been instances of these cracking.

I do an inspection of the top end of the engine prior to any trips. Last year I heard something different and ultimately found a cracked exhaust manifolds.

I also inspect the fuel lift pump as this is a known problem with the ISC 8.3, if it is leaking it cause the fuel pump to fail. I have a spare gasket for this to get me through and have the part numbers required to replace.

I also do an inspection of the air bags etc.

[Scottybdivin]

Make sure you have a large enough catch basin that will take the oil fast. It pours out fast and sometimes they can't keep up.

[FormerBoater]

Originally Posted by jacwjames

I do my own oil changes, lube and inspections. I can save money doing it myself besides making sure my coach is A-OK.

I usually keep several sets of oil & fuel filters on hand. I will check the internet for pricing including shipping. I can usually find good prices, better then I could buy locally at the Cummins shop. I can buy an oil filter for $26 with shipping, fuel filters are ~$18 & $30, sometimes cheaper if you buy in bulk.

I keep an eye out for oil on sale, I use Valvoline Blue which Auto Zone usually has on sale for ~$13/gal. I need 5 gallons do do an oil change so the cost of the oil is ~$75 with tax.

So the cost of the oil and filters are ~$150 if I do it myself.

When I change my oil I use a 5 gallon bucket with a plastic bag. The bucket will hold what is in my engine, once drained I tie the plastic bag up to prevent spilling. I put a cover on it when done and take it to a person that has an oil burning stove for heat.

I prefill the oil filter and fuel filters before installation.

~2 years ago I had the front hubs converted to oil bath so there is no need to have to have the front repacked anymore. The cost of this was about the cost of a repack.

I due a complete greasing 2 times per year. I know where all the zerk fittings are and it doesn't take that long.

I change the air dryer filter every 3 years, costs ~$35

I have read of several problems with different chassis issues with the roadmaster chassis. I do a complete inspection of the rear axle supports as there has been instances of these cracking.

I do an inspection of the top end of the engine prior to any trips. Last year I heard something different and ultimately found a cracked exhaust manifolds.

I also inspect the fuel lift pump as this is a known problem with the ISC 8.3, if it is leaking it cause the fuel pump to fail. I have a spare gasket for this to get me through and have the part numbers required to replace.

I also do an inspection of the air bags etc.

$150 is a great deal, however once you add the cost of the generator oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter + the cost of the oil analysis you will not be much under the $330 that Speedco is going to charge.

Also, Speedco is going to check the levels and condition of your rear differential, check the oil levels in the front axle oil bath plus do a tire inspection.

For a new owner like the OP, it is a great way to establish a baseline and learn about the engine condition via the oil analysis.

Just my 2 cents!

[jacwjames]

Agree, if you include all of the additional items the costs add up but I doubt Speedco will do all of that for $300.

My air filter is +$100, it is a fully enclosed metal type, the cartridge is not sold separately.

I guess you have to weight the Pro's and Con's.

I guess the biggest issue is whether you are capable & willing to do the job yourself. It's messy and I don't have a pit so I have to crawl under the rig to grease etc. Besides, I don't have a Speedco anywhere near where I live so I have limited choices.

When I first bought the new to us coach I wanted a complete inspection and engine & transmission codes read (if any) so I took it to Cummins. Cost was over $600 so I guess this put a bad taste in my mouth and a dent in my wallet.

[FormerBoater]

Originally Posted by jacwjames

Agree, if you include all of the additional items the costs add up but I doubt Speedco will do all of that for $300.

My air filter is +$100, it is a fully enclosed metal type, the cartridge is not sold separately.

I guess you have to weight the Pro's and Con's.

I guess the biggest issue is whether you are capable & willing to do the job yourself. It's messy and I don't have a pit so I have to crawl under the rig to grease etc. Besides, I don't have a Speedco anywhere near where I live so I have limited choices.

When I first bought the new to us coach I wanted a complete inspection and engine & transmission codes read (if any) so I took it to Cummins. Cost was over $600 so I guess this put a bad taste in my mouth and a dent in my wallet.

For the C Block Cummins (C8.3 or ISC ) Speedco considers this a Medium Duty Service. Air filter referenced in my earlier post is for the genny.

I had all of the services mentioned last September...a little north of $300 out the door.

[Papa_Jim]

Originally Posted by JWLSC

I have done my share of oil changes and DIY maintenance and repairs over the last 35 years. But this is my guest diesel engine I will be doing regular maintenance on. Are their any tips tricks or precautions that you can share.

Cummins says that my C8.3 engine holds 24 quarts of oil. I have determined that they mean that's how much the engine holds, not how much oil to put into the engine during the oil change process.

I pour in 20 quarts. Then I start the engine and warm it up. Quite a while later I check the oil level and add enough to it to make sure the level is well above the ADD mark on the dipstick. Then I check the oil level again during our first day out on the road.

My C8.3 engine will burn oil like crazy if I fill it up to the FULL mark on the dipstick. Oddly enough, that means I've only poured in 22 quarts, which is 2 quarts short of the 24 quarts that Cummins recommends. Once the oil level has dropped to somewhere above the ADD mark, my engine does not burn any oil.

Also, overfilling a C8.3 engine can cause it to puke the excess oil out the crankcase breather hose, which can make a terrible mess of the back of the coach and the toad. Most C8.3 engine owners have designed a collection bottle to hang at the end of the breather hose.

Jim

[mackwrench]

Not a knock against Speedco, I do all my own maintenance and repairs. But I've got 30 years plus in the industry. I prefer to do it myself because I don't think no one else looks at my coach as hard as me. I look at brake lining, closely inspect tires, lights, anything abnormal.
PLUS I buy the brand of filters I prefer, which are Fleetguard, I have no idea what Speedco uses
But I am somewhat hard-headed, lol Plus you need the space, tools etc....to perform it correctly.

I'm all in for the oil analysis and highly recommend it, IF you know how to read/interpret the results.

As far as gen-set, without removing any covers all you can do is exchange oil and filters so with out knowing what they charge, I'm not sure if Speedco is a deal on them

Just my $.02

[funjnt]

Morning all. As an excavation business owner I have several diesels. One really important thing I noticed in post from owner, "I pre fill my oil and fuel filters". I pre fill my oil filters but never fuel. Our older trucks that don't prime easily get pre filled. Anything newer it is not recommended by Cummins, Cat, Mack etc. New engines keep having tighter tolerances in the fuel injection system. Adding un filtered fuel (even if it has a transfer pump filter, micron rating is too large) to the fuel filter can introduce contaminants. This is something I highly recommend re considering. In our ISC motors the lift pump cycles on with the key and runs for 30 seconds. I usually cycle it two or three times to fill empty filters before firing. If you listen to pump you will hear it whine, then when fuel is primed, you can hear it slow and quiet down. This will tell you lift pump is functioning and if you have to change fuel filters on the go you have peace of mind knowing how to do it with lift pump doing the prime.