Fuel Tank Biocide Treatment ?

[hardy1000]

I tried the search engine and only came up with 1 fuel pump and 2 threads not related to my question, So I thought I would ask you guy's.
What type of fuel tank treatment? brand, and how often? I just read a thread that bactiera in his fuel tank cost $1400 to fix.
The only treatment that I have ever used is Lucas injector cleaner and conditioner.

This is my first diesel and I have learned alot the last couple of years but this is new to me.

Any help would be appriciated.

[Techie]

I believe that Cummins recommends NO additives unless you are having a problem. Check the manual from Cummins.

IMHO, I would only use an additive on a newer engine (such as yours) if it was going to be in storage for extended periods in a high-humidity location.

[RustyJC]

HERE is what Cummins says. See the section under Fuel Additives on page 2.

Rusty

[a k]

We add PRIST in our jetfuel which is same as diesel.

[hardy1000]

Thanks guys for answering my questions, Rusty, thanks for the ISL info sheet.

[Harry B]

Biobor JF http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3779 seems to be the best out there and this is where I found the best price. It is popular in the marine industry where boats may have diesel in their tanks for a long time.
I have always used with my boat and now with the motor homes and have had no problems. Growth in tanks can definitely can be a problem here in hot humid Florida.

[Gary RVRoamer]

The Biobar JF is what I use - got it at the West Marine in Yorktown, VA.

[Ray,IN]

The chance of "algae" growing in your tank is small if you keep it full during periods of non-use. It is caused by water in fuel, actually in the tank bottom. The "algae" grows where the water and fuel meet and nowhere else. Diesel fuel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
has the best explanation of water in diesel fuel.

[Mike Canter]

I guess the guy that previously owned our MH didn't keep his tank full when not in use because I got the black slim algae. My first indication was that my fuel filters were blocking up around 5000-7000 miles. I would have no power. I would change the filters and away I go with full power. I used a air cutter and cut the outer cover of my fuel filter off. Wow did that tell the whole story ( I highly recommend people do that once in a while). Had this black slime jammed into the folds of the filter element. I went and bought a bottle of Biobar JF from a Marine supply store. I also called Biobar and they were real friendly. Told me to use a shock treatment as specified on the bottle and give it 36 hours and it would kill it all. Drove on a trip and used up all that fuel and returned home after the trip with the red low fuel light on and drained the remaining ten gallons out of the tank. I strained the ten gallons and put it back in the tank and rocked the MH using the brakes so to slosh it around. Did that three times and then I stopped getting crud out of the tank. Went and filled up one more time but a first added the Biobar at the shock treatment level one more time and changed the primary fuel filter just to be safe. Drove on a 4000 mile trip and came home and changed both fuel filters mainly because I wanted to cut them open again to see what was still in the tank. The filters were both clean. What the guy at Biobar told me is that there has to be water in the tank to get algae. If you live in a high humidity area like Georgia then you have to be careful. As we all know it is important to keep that tank full to the top while the MH is not being driven so you do not get condensation inside the tank. I now use a maintenance dose of the Biobar if the MH is going to sit for some time like over the winter just to make sure. I agree with Cummins that most of the additives are not necessary and just a way to get your money BUT i highly recommend add a bottle of the Power Service Products "Clear Diesel" or "Diesel 911" at least once or twice a year to clean out and water in the bottom of the tank just in case and to add that Biobor for long term storage.

I did find out that my fuel pickup in the tank goes all the way to the bottom of the tank into a small sump area that was also where the drain was. Since the pickup was that low in the tank any water should be picked up and moved right to the water separator immediately. Thinking back I did see dark colored liquid in the bottom of the water separator so it was trying to tell me something.

[hardy1000]

Thanks Mike, I live in CA and it is not to humid where I live, and I also store the tank full. Just to be safe I will add a bottle of clear diesel or 911. Filters arn't cheap and it looks like you spent some $ on replacing them a few times.

Better safe than sorry.

[Mandys Man]

I use this product if I know that I will be sitting long term

[Oldrtrcr]

PRI products are what I use, but for storage I believe they recommend this product. http://www.priproducts.com/pdfs/Flyer%20-%20PRI-OCIDE%20-%20CONSUMER.pdf

[J Walker]

When I bought my DP nine years ago I read about microbe growth and the horror stories. I learned that water was the necessary ingredient for microbes, so I have used a water dispersant additive and kept my tank as full as possible when being stored. Howes is the additive I have used and it is very inexpensive. It is not clear what Howes does beyond water dispersant but it is found at most truck stops. I have never used a biocide or had a problem, so I am sold on water dispersant additives. This last season I switched to Power Service Diesel Fuel since Howes was not available at the time. It disperses water and does many other things like cleaning fuel injectors. My MPG began to greatly increase by 2+ MPG. Simultaneously, I slowed from 65 MPH to 55 MPH and I will have to do some more observation to separate the two factors. Any experience out there on Power Service related to MPG would be appreciated. I have a 5.9 ISB engine.