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Old 01-30-2018, 06:58 PM   #1
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I Broke It!

Went to change my coolant filter today. The PLASTIC shutoff valve was stuck pretty good so I knew it was likely to break - it did! About half broke away and half is still there, so I quit. There seems to be a screw in the middle of it. I'm thinking take it to the shop but I hate to give up that easily! Its a hard spot to reach for an old guy. Anyone else dealt with this?
Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:07 PM   #2
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Old 01-30-2018, 10:22 PM   #3
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Yes, I did the exact same thing on a 400 ISL. It’s important that you turn the shut off valve with the shaft end, and not the handle end. The shaft end is the one next to the oil filter. The handle end just has a screw holding it onto the shaft.
When I broke mine it started leaking coolant. So I had to remove the whole coolant filter mount. Install a new shaft and “o” rings on the shaft.
There was one of the 4 bolts on the mount that was difficult to get to but in the end I got it fixed.
I had to drain the coolant reservoir before I removed the mounting bracket, but I still got a little shower when the mount dropped off.
Brett
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:19 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bneukam View Post
Yes, I did the exact same thing on a 400 ISL. It’s important that you turn the shut off valve with the shaft end, and not the handle end. The shaft end is the one next to the oil filter. The handle end just has a screw holding it onto the shaft.
When I broke mine it started leaking coolant. So I had to remove the whole coolant filter mount. Install a new shaft and “o” rings on the shaft.
There was one of the 4 bolts on the mount that was difficult to get to but in the end I got it fixed.
I had to drain the coolant reservoir before I removed the mounting bracket, but I still got a little shower when the mount dropped off.
Brett
Yep like Bneukam says, but it's a lot easier to change from the top when the turbo and the broken exhaust manifold is off
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:01 AM   #5
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Me too. The valve is replaceable--two years ago it cost me about $155 at Cummins with shipping. You got good advice to change that filter when you change the oil so you can use the lever between the coolant and oil filter. Switch to an OAT coolant and you can forget changing that filter regularly. Cummins sells an empty filter for use with OAT coolants.
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Old 01-31-2018, 02:33 PM   #6
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Thanks, everyone. I didn't even look at the other side before now. But it looks like plastic just like the other side. I'm going to fabricate a wrench to see if I can turn it without dropping my new oil filter...I suspect it will break too. Hasn't been turned or filter changed for almost 4 years.
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Old 02-02-2018, 07:40 AM   #7
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Corrosion Resistor
1 206963 Filter Head Adapter
2 3008469 Pipe Plug 3/4 NPT
3 3316053 Corrosion Resistor
4 3818885 O-Ring Seal
5 3900631 Hexagon Flange Head Cap Screw M8 X 1.25 X 25.
6 3943738 Corrosion Resistor Head
7 3943739 Shut-Off Valve Shaft
8 3943740 Shut-Off Valve Shaft
9 3943744 Corrosion Resistor Gasket
10 943857 O-Ring Seal
11 3944454 Self Tapping Metal Screw
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:55 AM   #8
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To replace that plastic shaft, I had to take down the whole bracket. Even with the oil filter off there was not enough room to take out the shaft end.
To make matters worse Cummings gave me the wrong O rings and it still leaked after install. Had to take it all back down again.
They say you should exercise it once a year to keep it from sticking, or just leave it alone.
Cheap plastic that close to the engine is just bad design.
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:33 PM   #9
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Thanks! Nice diagram. How do I drain cooling system with no petcock?
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:09 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Md11fpilot View Post
Thanks! Nice diagram. How do I drain cooling system with no petcock?
The best way is to loosen one end of the lower radiator hose. The lower outlet is easy to get off, but mine didn't have a gasket on it from the factory. It had silicone sealant on it so you might want to order the gasket in advance.

That part number is 3913032.
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