I started this tread to separate the two issues of replacing the cracked manifold from the egt conversations.
So I am going to replace my manifold and now looking for info on part #, cost and source.
As a temporary matter I have attempted to use 2400 degree patch goop and a 1000 degree bandage to allow for operation until new part.
I know I will have to PB blast the hell out of every thing and as well clean the threads as much as possible. It appears that I have the tools to remove with both an air and electric impact as well as the sockets.
the only PTA will be the turbo bolts as they are under the flange. Not sure if they are reached from under the engine with extensions.
any and all suggestions welcome.
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La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
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I contacted Cummins Distibutor and they say the parts for the manifold are ordered separtely since it is a two piece manifold.
larger side with turbo
#3943875 $182.00
shorter end
#3943872 $148
New part should slide into the splice.
Delivery overnight.
Geno's does not carry OEM and does not have what I need for the 90 degree turbo mount.
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La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
Mine was $580 for all of the parts, including bolts, gaskets turbo supply and drain tube (rubber sleeve) also. I soaked it down last night, I'm diving in on Saturday AM so I will keep soaking them down everyday. The replacement manifold from Cummins is much better reinforced compared to the original, that put a smile on my face!
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2002 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40PKD
with Residential refrigerator conversion
2014 Jeep Wrangler in tow, M&G brake system
I'm pulling out in the morning on a two thousand mile trip with the cracked exhaust manifold and will fix it on the road if necessary. I have the new one, list $790.+ and net was $448.00 or thereabouts.
The reason I'm going on without making the repair is I'm still waiting on parts like new fasteners and the EGT probe. I'll have a bud install the probe in then news exhaust manifold at his machine shop. I'm taking the new one along in case but I hope not to need it.
I'm pulling out in the morning on a two thousand mile trip with the cracked exhaust manifold and will fix it on the road if necessary. I have the new one, list $790.+ and net was $448.00 or thereabouts.
The reason I'm going on without making the repair is I'm still waiting on parts like new fasteners and the EGT probe. I'll have a bud install the probe in then news exhaust manifold at his machine shop. I'm taking the new one along in case but I hope not to need it.
I wonder if that is the best thing to do. you may experience low power from the turbo and a lot of extra heat/residue in the engine compartment. We have a trip to do too but I felt some temporary repair was needed. Used the items pictured to make a repair that should last a while. clean the pipe with dremil, course emery paper and coat into the crack the 2400 degree Quick Steel (advance auto $9 along with the fiberglass, let cure over night, sand lightly with emery cloth and wrap the expanded aluminum rain gutter (cut to fit) from HD $3 and wrap with 14 gauge copper wire. Then apply thick coat (another $9 bucks) of Quick steel. let set overnight, next day run engine for 30 minutes or so at idle to cure product.
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La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
A suggestion on all exhaust manifolds is to wrap or cover manifold with a heat shield material. This will keep the heat in the exhaust manifold when you shut the engine down which will cut down on the manifold cooling quickly and over time add the life of manifolds. I will also cut down on heat in engine area plus a slight increase in turbo pressure by keeping the heat in the exhaust. Summit and Jeg's sell heat wrap rolls for this job. On our 500 ISM I have wrapped the exhaust from the turbo to the exhaust tip 12 years ago and 130K miles ago.
It's obvious we are comparing peas to avocados here. My manifold has a crack, his is missing a huge piece.
We've traveled 1200 plus miles the last three days, love the back roads and don't like Interstates. Since the comment went up about wrapping the manifold with some heat tape I have been looking for an auto parts store that's easy access for us. I will wrap the crack.
It's obvious we are comparing peas to avocados here. My manifold has a crack, his is missing a huge piece.
We've traveled 1200 plus miles the last three days, love the back roads and don't like Interstates. Since the comment went up about wrapping the manifold with some heat tape I have been looking for an auto parts store that's easy access for us. I will wrap the crack.
Most auto stores have heat wraps. try advance - I know they have it.
When your say "HIS" is missing a piece - to whom are your referring.
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La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
Most auto stores have heat wraps. try advance - I know they have it.
When your say "HIS" is missing a piece - to whom are your referring.
I went back and pulled your photo up and it doesn't look as bad as it did when I looked at it in the posting. My bad. My impression was the back half of your manifold was missing.
We're in Custer NE and have a rental car so I will find the wrap and use it before we leave Thursday morning for home.
A suggestion on all exhaust manifolds is to wrap or cover manifold with a heat shield material. This will keep the heat in the exhaust manifold when you shut the engine down which will cut down on the manifold cooling quickly and over time add the life of manifolds. I will also cut down on heat in engine area plus a slight increase in turbo pressure by keeping the heat in the exhaust. Summit and Jeg's sell heat wrap rolls for this job. On our 500 ISM I have wrapped the exhaust from the turbo to the exhaust tip 12 years ago and 130K miles ago.
Tom, I find this interesting, wouldn't it actually cause a problem with trapping the heat inside? I do see a real benefit with lowering the temps in the engine compartment.
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2002 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40PKD
with Residential refrigerator conversion
2014 Jeep Wrangler in tow, M&G brake system
As much as I hope for a fix it failed. Put soap solution on manifold and started engine. Lots of bubbles. Crack repair cracked so don't waist your time. As for the WRAP for heat. I think it is a good idea as it will put more heat to the turbo and cause the cast iron not to shrink as fast as the steel head. may be helpful. I know on my ISB there is all kinds of places that the heat transfers must be huge. Less than 1 inch between manifold (1100) and turbo riser output tube (fresh air intake ambient), then the exhaust bends right next to and under the air intake filter. Lots of room for study of thermal dynamics here.
I want cold air in but the the engine output keeps feeding heat. not a good equilibrium.
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La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
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