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ladagobago · 10-04-2016, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wroughtnharv

I read your adventures in exhaust manifold R&R and shudder. Then this afternoon I picked up the rest of the parts for my adventure and find this: note the size of the pyrometer and the new exhaust manifold.

You mentioned a two piece exhaust manifold. When we looked at the collector going into the turbo mount we found the two side completely separated from the four side.

Needless to say I told the machinist to hold off until I do more research.

That picture looks like the manifold is an after market one piece. The cummins manifold for the 24v and I think the 12v as yours is, comes as a two piece. your new manifold most likely is combining the all cylinder outputs from one side and the outputs from the other side. A two piece manifold is slip sleeved between the 4-3rd cylinders. If you check the cambers of the manifold, I believe all the ports are combined within the casting makeup of the manifold in a common balance to the turbo.

As for the probe. Is it not adjustable for the depth by loosing the collared compression nut?

Wroughtnharv · 10-04-2016, 08:35 AM

We checked the casting above the turbo flange, machinist and me, and were both surprised that there was a solid wall between the two and four sides.

This manifold is the Cummins part for my motor based upon the motor serial number.

Doh!!!! I didn't think about the probe being adjustable, double doggone darn, sometimers!

Now the big question, where do I have him install the probe for most accurate readings?

ladagobago · 10-04-2016, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wroughtnharv

We checked the casting above the turbo flange, machinist and me, and were both surprised that there was a solid wall between the two and four sides.

This manifold is the Cummins part for my motor based upon the motor serial number.

Doh!!!! I didn't think about the probe being adjustable, double doggone darn, sometimers!

Now the big question, where do I have him install the probe for most accurate readings?

my two piece manifold incorporates the 3rd thru 6th cyl. in the rear piece and the 4-5-6 cyl are combined to the rear port of the turbo. I plan to install my EGT probe in the rear port.
There were a few pictures posted previously and it was show to be in the rear port from the 6 cylinder as they state the 6th is the hottest. In any case it should be positioned in the middle of the exhaust gas stream.

I don't know which EGT probe you have or which engine. Go here to see a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQfrwoCmvIk

ladagobago · 10-04-2016, 04:23 PM

more pics on the install of an egt

Wroughtnharv · 10-04-2016, 09:39 PM

This is the original exhaust manifold in place.

Wroughtnharv · 10-04-2016, 09:46 PM

Here is a close up of the crack.

Two thoughts here, one involves the best place to insert the pyrometer probe is just opposite of the crack just above the turbo flange where it will read the back four cylinders. The second thought is that I am using the 1/4" NPT flange probe used on big trucks and not the 1/8" sold by the performance vendors. One has to wonder about stresses, bigger hole etc.

Wroughtnharv · 10-04-2016, 09:48 PM

I watched the EDGE video earlier today and was disappointed because the older 12 valve isn't mentioned. But after searching youtube and Google I haven't found any discussions anywhere on the older 12 valve pyrometer locations.

I was looking at the gauge and it looks like it will fit in the original gauge cluster just fine, location and appearance, keeping my fingers crossed.

ladagobago · 10-05-2016, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wroughtnharv

I watched the EDGE video earlier today and was disappointed because the older 12 valve isn't mentioned. But after searching youtube and Google I haven't found any discussions anywhere on the older 12 valve pyrometer locations.

I was looking at the gauge and it looks like it will fit in the original gauge cluster just fine, location and appearance, keeping my fingers crossed.

Suggest google 12 valve egt install. there are several tags for this.
or go to Glowshift.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8KF6rSOldQ

ladagobago · 10-05-2016, 04:13 PM

after many days of spraying, heating, impacting, hammering, cutting and busting a few bolt - I got the manifold off.

The stud that was on the top middle was the most troubling as the nut and washer were virtually welded to the stud. first I tried to dremel the nut into pieces and then work on the washer, which was tight to the spacer. NO LUCK. finally I just cut the damn stud off see below. Later after heating it red hot, used a pipe wrench to remove it.

I had a two other bolts which broke when I tried to rotate them back and forth. Just when I thought they were free they snapped. On many bolts I notice that the various fluids , blaster, WD & ATF/acetone never even made it past the rust, even after 4lb hammer, impact wrench and SIX LETTER CURSES.

One of the bolt head rounded off with the impact wrench so I found Irwin bolt grip extractors at Lowes. After heating it up, and hammering on the extractor it came out smooth with a 12" breaker bar.

It was impossible to get to the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold So the turbo had to come off with the manifold attached. I took the broken manifold and turbo to my local mechanic to get the bolts off since I have no tool to get to them. Don't want to use an open wrench and socket will not fit in the space.

mackwrench · 10-05-2016, 04:28 PM

If you have access to a welder, you can weld a 1/2" nut to that stud that is almost flush with the cyl head.....heat from the welder "draws" it up some and then the nut allows a socket to remove it......

Be sure to use anti-seize when reassembling it.....the next guy will be happy you did, and it might be you, never know.....lol

BTW, I'm racking my brain on the six letter cuss words.....
Is dadgum one?

Wroughtnharv · 10-05-2016, 10:10 PM

Y'all got me getting excited about this project!

Today I got the mattress, wood cover, and metal cover out of the way so the area needing attention is fully exposed. I've decided since I have the room to install the EGT on the side of the manifold just above the turbo flange, 3-6 side.

The video shows using teflon tape, that doesn't seem right to me, thoughts?

ladagobago · 10-06-2016, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mackwrench

If you have access to a welder, you can weld a 1/2" nut to that stud that is almost flush with the cyl head.....heat from the welder "draws" it up some and then the nut allows a socket to remove it......

Be sure to use anti-seize when reassembling it.....the next guy will be happy you did, and it might be you, never know.....lol

BTW, I'm racking my brain on the six letter cuss words.....
Is dadgum one?

Had professional welders repair the generator frame and custom fabricate the 10K LB hitch receiver and in all cases they used a transient protectors on the electrical. They spoke of terror stories of fried transmission and engine computers. Currently have two different types of welders but prefer not to weld on my engine.

always present is a one pound can of nickle Never Seez. Been using this since my old days working on industrial scale systems in the 70's. Hope it is not me that takes it off next.

mackwrench · 10-06-2016, 10:05 AM

Sometimes it's almost impossible to remove the studs broken flush. Drill them out....
When welding, you must remove battery cables, ground welder lead as close to stud as possible.
I
On newer equipment, like Street sweeper, refuse trucks etc...where things must be welded I've taken extra care and disconnect trans, engine and chassis ECM and controllers.
Sometimes it's unavoidable.

When I replaced mine on ISC, none broke. Whew.

ladagobago · 10-07-2016, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mackwrench

Sometimes it's almost impossible to remove the studs broken flush. Drill them out....
When welding, you must remove battery cables, ground welder lead as close to stud as possible.
I
On newer equipment, like Street sweeper, refuse trucks etc...where things must be welded I've taken extra care and disconnect trans, engine and chassis ECM and controllers.
Sometimes it's unavoidable.

When I replaced mine on ISC, none broke. Whew.

Luckily, non were broken clean off at the block. The stud I cut off which left three inches to use the pipe wrench and the others left a little nub sticking out. Today I got one more out with an extractor and 16" pipe wrench. Now for the last one which is sticking out from the block only 1/2 inch. that will be a challenge.