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Old 10-07-2016, 05:44 PM   #43
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ready for new manifold

Got all the broken bolts out with extractors and now ready to drill the manifold for the EGT probe. Practiced on the old manifold and used soap water for lubricant. Real easy.

Ordered new turbo flange studs and nuts, not real cheap - about $30 dollars for the four, new manifold bolts, another $45 and two turbo V clamps at $39 each. Could have gotten all these a few dollars cheaper on the internet but want them Monday and Cummins has them through my Western Start Dealer.

When I had the extractors hammered on the broken bolts, I used the pipe wrench to turn them out very slow. just a little click at a time. I found the Acetone/ATF fluid very good to lube the threads. It would appear the treads were a little galled after I got them out. This may have been caused by manufacture at time of install as poor hole tap, lack of lube or over torque. IMHO.

At any rate - the engine is headed toward the finish line.
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:40 PM   #44
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turbo apart

Finally got the turbo separated from the broken manifold. Don't let anyone every tell you that the turbo can removed without removing the manifold on thee DP. today bought a set of wrenches to add to the many types I already have in the tool box. Kobalt Universal 8-Piece Standard Black Oxide has a unique gripping ability on the box end. The only way to get the turbo nuts of the studs was to apply large amount of heat from the Mapp and Propane torches. Once RED hot they were easy to turn but three of them broke off anyway.
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Old 10-14-2016, 07:46 AM   #45
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back together but won't start only cranks

I got the new manifold and everything back together. I re-attached the wires to the starting batteries and cranked the engine. It cranked slow so I checked my battery connections and found one of the large Positive wires laying in back of the batteries. I had not seen it and forgot to connect it. I then connected the lost cable and crank again. the engine spins normally but still won't start.

What could I have done or damaged that would cause it not to start?? I am worried now.
I have been working on this for three weeks and expected to leave this Nov 1st.
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Old 10-14-2016, 08:51 AM   #46
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Sounds like you're still missing a wire at the positive side, there should be a smaller wire that powers the ECM, sometimes there is a fuse holder inline with it....but maybe it fell down where the other cable did
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:28 AM   #47
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U da man mack

Quote:
Originally Posted by mackwrench View Post
Sounds like you're still missing a wire at the positive side, there should be a smaller wire that powers the ECM, sometimes there is a fuse holder inline with it....but maybe it fell down where the other cable did
MACK - your the man. I looked and low and behold there was a little black wire that should have been going to ground. I also called FL and they said to the check the fuses in my battery bay on the left. I had one 10 amp fuse blown.

Now when I turn the key the fuel pressure gauge rises up to 11 LBS but the engine will not start. I am going to take the top off the filter to see if fuel is filling the container. If it is full then I have another problem I guess.

Thanks for making me look twice.
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Old 10-15-2016, 03:47 PM   #48
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Manifold install is complete. Followup

I installed the turbo to the manifold,
First Double nut the studs and torque to 32 lbs. USE neverseez Nickle on everything, it is good for 2400 degrees. Install the turbo on the studs, Use claw foot on torque wrench and set it for 27 lbs. will be about 30 lbs on nut. Bring the torque up evenly diagonally as the turbo is attached to the manifold.

manifold and turbo to engine.

To support the manifold while attaching the bolt, spacers and gasket, I made a jig out of 1/2" conduit attached to a 2x4 and some web straps to hang the manifold. See pic below. It made the job very easy. once every thing was in place, just align the bolt with the hole in the head and tighten a little. Go to the other end and do the same. once everything is lined up thumb tighten all the bolts.

When ready- hand tighten with ratchet, every bolt starting in the middle and work outwards. Next torqued each bolt progressively from center outward 20 then 25 then 32 lbs.

After the manifold install was completed attached exhaust valve to turbo with V clamps. there are two different sizes of clamps on the PAC brake, installed new oil line ($45) and gasket to return oil line, attached air in from filter to turbo, re-mount the alternator, install turbo air out elbow with RTV red gasket maker, install air out tubes to CAC. when Installing the rubber air connections I use a water based personal lube sold at Walmart. Same as KY Jelly but cheaper and very effective. used to use it on big 10" yacht exhaust tubes.

Now reconnect ALL OF THE BATTERY WIRES. (i missed a few as noted earlier) and START YOUR MOTOR.

To find out how the road test went go to the other thread on this forum.
Replace lift pump

A special thanks to all those who posted helpful thoughts and followed my first big motor fix. Now I am ready to work on my 72 XKE 121 banger
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