Community Forums

jesilvas · 08-12-2013, 10:11 AM

Usually, electronically controlled engines have to "learn" what they have. Some do that 24/7, some only do that for the first few hours/miles. I would disconnect the batteries for an hour or so, and even turn the key on engine off to drain all power from the computer, and reconnect batteries and make it relearn that way.

greystroke · 08-12-2013, 10:23 AM

Previously I posted about

https://www.quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

Once you get an ID there is a lot of troubleshooting stuff up there for your engine number. You might be able to find out there if you need a re-cal in the procedure for turbo replacement. It is a great site offered by Cummins and it is completely overlooked because they used to charge for it. They don't now. All the latest PN's and procedures for replacement.

Sure would be nice it you knew the code that is thrown for that Engine Light. Do you know someone close with a VMSpc??

jzielins · 08-12-2013, 11:19 AM

Greystroke,

Yes I remember this now. I will definitely look into it more here. All I have are the codes that I got the last time I took it in before I replaced the EGR and Turbo. I may still have to take it in and have them checked again to get the codes it's throwing now as i don't know anyone that has one.

Thanks Again!

jzielins · 08-12-2013, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jesilvas

Usually, electronically controlled engines have to "learn" what they have. Some do that 24/7, some only do that for the first few hours/miles. I would disconnect the batteries for an hour or so, and even turn the key on engine off to drain all power from the computer, and reconnect batteries and make it relearn that way.

Jesilvas, I had the batteries disconnected when I replaced the EGR and Turbo. I would think this is exactly what your speaking of. The check engine light is out when you first start it and then the minute you start to drive it or accelerate it come back on.

Funny thing is it doesn't feel like anything is wrong with it? I think I am just going to have to have the codes read again and the use the service Greystroke mentioned.....

greystroke · 08-12-2013, 11:31 AM

Your troubleshooting in the blind without something to tell what the codes are. While I am driving in real time I can see codes thrown as they occur. Then I can take Silverleaf codes to quickserve and covert them to cummins codes in their code converter. When you do this there are links with the codes that go straight into the procedures. It isn't perfect but it really helped me keep my engine up. Anyway it is your choice, just wanted to make sure you knew about it.

jzielins · 08-12-2013, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greystroke

Your troubleshooting in the blind without something to tell what the codes are. While I am driving in real time I can see codes thrown as they occur. Then I can take Silverleaf codes to quickserve and covert them to cummins codes in their code converter. When you do this there are links with the codes that go straight into the procedures. It isn't perfect but it really helped me keep my engine up. Anyway it is your choice, just wanted to make sure you knew about it.

I will be working on that and using this service for sure. I assume as you said I can use the free service for my needs correct? Thanks!

greystroke · 08-12-2013, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jzielins

I will be working on that and using this service for sure. I assume as you said I can use the free service for my needs correct? Thanks!

After you get an ID you will have access to free info for the serial number of your engine. I think you can have up to 5 serial numbers. When I first signed up it cost 100 per year but I don't think they charge at all now. There is no way to order parts there, just to find the most current numbers. Also there is a lot of free info for your Onan which is a Cummins product.

jzielins · 08-19-2013, 11:05 AM

Hi Gang,

Spent all day at the Cummins dealer last Friday trying to figure out the Check Engine Light issue. First when we tried to pull codes I discovered my computer was in need of software updates... A lot of them! This took over a hour. We thought maybe this would do it. Once that was done I took it for a ride and immediately the light came on so back on the scope for another reading. Initially Cummins thought the Actuator was not calibrated right but after further diagnosis what Cummins is telling me is that I have a bad Speed Sensor. I think these are pretty expensive to replace. Does anyone know anything about Speed Sensors and where I might be able to get one at a reasonable price? Also what if I just drove it like this??? Can i do any damage? I seems to run just fine??? Thanks in advance!

greystroke · 08-19-2013, 11:58 AM

On my older 5.9 the speed and crankshaft sensor are one. You might look on the passenger side, about an inch or so above the oil pan, a little to the right of center. There should be a crankshaft sensor there. It is not too expensive and if it is already in the shop just have them do it. If you do it yourself disconnect the wire and soak the sensor with WD-40 or PB blaster. It just unscrews. Easy to get to. Mine was intermittent.

You may have a second "speed" sensor and it is harder to get to. It is more toward the front of the engine. The code result should tell you which one except if it is intermittent. When the the sensor is working the code clears from the computer automatically and may not be accessible by the cummins code checker after the fact. It would have to be connected during the event.

With mine even it it clears the computer it will still be stored in the VMSpc. Also I can watch the engine light come on at the exact time the code is displayed.

After you sign up for quickserve you will have access to drawings of the location of your sensors and how many you have.

jzielins · 08-20-2013, 09:47 AM

Greystroke,

Sorry i wasn't clear on which sensor. This is the Speed Sensor on the Turbo. It's a big green wire to a sensor on the Turbo and the other end is a big black connector the has a chip in it. I think there somewhere around $700 to replace.

Pelledan · 08-20-2013, 10:04 AM

If you replace the turbine speed sensor yourself, use extreme caution and carefully read an installation guide (if available) for proper sensor clearance to the turbine fan blades. The sensor is most likely threaded and held in position by a jamb nut. Hold the sensor to prevent it from turning, then loosen the jamb nut. At that point and if no tolerance information is available, screw the sensor in (yes, IN) slowly and count the revolutions until the sensor makes contact with an obstruction which should be a turbine fan blade. Remove the old sensor and install the new using the same method to contact the same turbine blade, then back it out the same number of revolutions and secure it with the jamb nut. Before buttoning everything up, remove the air inlet to the turbo to reveal the compressor fan. The compressor and turbine fans are on a common shaft, so you can slowly rotate the compressor fan by hand to insure the turbine side has not been obstructed by the location of the new sensor.
Dan

jzielins · 09-11-2013, 06:56 AM

Well Gang I think I finally have it licked. I got my new Speed Sensor the other day from the place that rebuilt my Turbo. They covered the cost of it as it was supposed to have been replaced by them in the first place.

It was about a 5 minute job. Once installed I started the rig and ran it in the drive and no check engine light. I took it out on the road and no check engine light and it runs better then I ever remember it running. Tons of power and torque and smooth. Yeh!

I would like thank everyone for all the words of encouragement, guidance and knowledge given throughout this process. I would not have been able to do it without you all. I'm extremely happy with the results and hopefully it's fixed for good.

Many Thanks!