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Old 01-01-2013, 09:41 AM   #15
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Mine is a 350 hp ISC and I had higher then normal aluminum in my oil analysts at about 50K miles. Owned the MH since it had 19K on it and run 15 -40 W Shell Rotella. All was good until we reached the 50K mark. At about that time I saw somewhere that Shell changed their formula, so after that oil analysts I added one gallon of Lucas oil treatment to the four and half gallons of Rotella, next oil analysts showed everything was back to normal and it has stayed that way since, with 96K on the motor. I would suggest changing brands of oil or try something like Lucas oil treatment before doing anything else.
Thanks. I will try that before I have any work done on the engine. It is good to hear about a case where aluminum levels went down by changing oils.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:48 AM   #16
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I would recommend if changing oil brands you use Mobil 1 5-40 turbo diesel as they claim it reduces scuffing of the cylinder walls. Might help.
Bill
I have considered running Mobil 1 but I am reluctant to use the 5W 40. Not knowing better I feel I should stick with 15W 40. I appreciate all of the replies and suggestions.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:02 AM   #17
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Thanks. I will try that before I have any work done on the engine. It is good to hear about a case where aluminum levels went down by changing oils.
I might add that they not only dropped they plummeted and they stayed that way. For the life of me I can't find the last analysis I had. Since the MH is being traded in it's a non issue for me at this time.
Mobil 1 is great stuff and as long as it meets your engine specs I would try it. My 5 1/2 gal capacity with the 8.3 is that it was too expensive and I went with the Lucas oil additive instead.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:39 AM   #18
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Mine is a 350 hp ISC and I had higher then normal aluminum in my oil analysts at about 50K miles. Owned the MH since it had 19K on it and run 15 -40 W Shell Rotella. All was good until we reached the 50K mark. At about that time I saw somewhere that Shell changed their formula, so after that oil analysts I added one gallon of Lucas oil treatment to the four and half gallons of Rotella, next oil analysts showed everything was back to normal and it has stayed that way since, with 96K on the motor. I would suggest changing brands of oil or try something like Lucas oil treatment before doing anything else.
Did you stay with Rotella oil or switch to another one? Which Lucas oil treatment did you use?
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:57 AM   #19
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Did you stay with Rotella oil or switch to another one? Which Lucas oil treatment did you use?
I stayed with Rotella. It was their general oil treatment that they sell at Wallmart and just about anywhere. It was suggested to me by a few truck driver/owner types. I'm not a big fan of any oil or fuel treatments but apparently this stuff did the trick for my engine.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:29 PM   #20
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I have considered running Mobil 1 but I am reluctant to use the 5W 40. Not knowing better I feel I should stick with 15W 40. I appreciate all of the replies and suggestions.
The 5-40 flowes faster to your turbo and berrings when cold and still protects like a 40 wt oil.
Bill
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:42 AM   #21
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The 5-40 flowes faster to your turbo and berrings when cold and still protects like a 40 wt oil.
Bill
I have the same engine as JWALKER and am in the process of collecting a Blackstone sample for analysis. I'm concerned about his findings as mine might end up being similar to his. I have 72K miles on ours.

We are in Texas and use the RV in the summer. It isn't unusual for us to be driving when the outside temps are 110 degrees. While my engine coolant temp never gets higher than 195, the intake manifold, which normally runs between 115-130 degree can climb to 150 degrees under these conditions.

I've run Rotella 15w-40 since I've owned the RV (about 27K miles) Does your recommendation also cover my condition? I've been concerned about making sure that the turbo doesn't self destruct do to lack of proper lubrication.

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Old 01-08-2013, 07:22 PM   #22
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I use Mobil 1 in everything I have and have for over 40 years. Protecting the turbo was one of my main objectives.
Hear is a link you can check out
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...uck_5W-40.aspx
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:10 PM   #23
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I have a 2000 ISB with 64K miles and I recently received a Blackstone oil analysis report with elevated iron and aluminum levels. The most likely source is scuffing of the pistons on the cylinders. The aluminum level points to piston rings. This is the second year that the iron and aluminum levels have been high with the oil being drained and refilled in between. The silicon level is normal, no coolant in the oil, and minimal fuel in the oil. The engine runs well but I am concerned and wonder if there is anything I could or should do. I will try to attach the Blackstone report.
I have been working with oil analysis for nearly 35 years. While the aluminum is elevated compared to the other earlier reports, I would not get too upset. If you had piston scuffing, the Al number would be triple digits. Piston scuffing can be caused by insufficient piston cooling nozzle oil flow but there is no other data to support that. The iron numbers are quite low hence not much scuffing evidence either. Silicon levels are very low thus you do not have air cleaner dusting failure which can cause elevated aluminum plus higher chrome (Cr) as well as iron (Fe). You just do not have any data to support scuffing. The fellow who gave that information is pulling a standard answer, nothing specific to your engine. It is a bit much and causes undue alarm. BTW, aluminum levels do NOT point to piston rings......chromium from ring face wear and iron from cylinder wear would be evident.....but they are not.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:48 AM   #24
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Gary
Thanks for your reply. I have owned the MH since it was new 12 years ago and had several oil analysis done over that period. The aluminum and iron levels were normal until two years ago when they began to rise. I am considering changing to a true synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 which has been frequently suggested. Do you have any suggestions and thanks again?
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:14 AM   #25
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I use Mobil 1 in everything I have and have for over 40 years. Protecting the turbo was one of my main objectives.
Hear is a link you can check out
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...uck_5W-40.aspx
Bill
Went to your link and couldn't find any info on Cummins in my MH. Any suggestions, will try again later as I've always used Mobil 1 in all my gas engines.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:32 AM   #26
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Gary
Thanks for your reply. I have owned the MH since it was new 12 years ago and had several oil analysis done over that period. The aluminum and iron levels were normal until two years ago when they began to rise. I am considering changing to a true synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 which has been frequently suggested. Do you have any suggestions and thanks again?
Jim,

Synthetic oils like Mobil Delvac 1 only benefit you primarily at cold start up to provide a faster rise in oil pressure. On the other end, the oxidation thickening resistance prolongs the oil life as measured by used oil viscosity at 100*C test point. Other than those two features, the additive package is the same as for mineral base stock oils. For the few miles you drive, definitely not worth it unless you expect some extreme cold operating. Stick with Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300 Super, and Shell Rotella.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:22 PM   #27
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Went to your link and couldn't find any info on Cummins in my MH. Any suggestions, will try again later as I've always used Mobil 1 in all my gas engines.
They don't call out the Cummins in your moterhome specificley burt do for the Cummins in the Doge pick up. Please read what it sayes under 5-40 turbo diesal oil.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #28
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Here is an update on my engine. I installed a new air filter and then ran the engine up to operating temperature. I checked five of my six cylinder temperatures and they were all within a few degrees of one another. Obstructions prevented me from checking the sixth cylinder. I checked the blow by out of the slobber tube. I have some but perhaps it is normal. Holding my hand under the tube I can feel no blow by. Partially covering the tube the blow by escapes under pressure and I can feel it. I have not devised a way to measure the quantity of blow by.
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