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Old 10-13-2016, 02:57 PM   #1
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ISL9 oil change

I'm getting ready to change the oil in our 45' diesel pusher for the first time.
I have purchased the oil (DELO 15W40), a wicks filter, a monster funnel, and 2 16 quart drain containers. Also plan on changing the fuel filters at the same time. Any tips that will make this go smoothly?
Thanks,
JD
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:18 PM   #2
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Welcome to iRV2.

Do you have the oil capacity from a reliable source ?
Just to be sure you don't overflow the drain pans.
If your working on concrete or pavement , do you have , kitty litter , to pick up any spills.
Diesel fuel to pre-fill the fuel filters? Some years/chassis need it.
Check all the filters for numbers , before you remove them , that match the replacements , expect that the primary fuel filter will run out fuel from the housing when removed , so have a drain pan ready and the replacement handy to install , not wrapped up in the box.
Have fun, make notes for next time.
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:34 PM   #3
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I always fill my oil filter before installing. I would replace one fuel filter at a time to keep the air out of the lines. Do the first one start it and then do the second. I have the same engine in my rig.

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Old 10-14-2016, 08:31 PM   #4
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Post pic of back of engine compartment for reference I have same engine.


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Old 10-14-2016, 09:17 PM   #5
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Oil filters can be pretty tuff to spin off, so can fuel filters. Some mechanics have the grip of a gorilla and really tighten them. I'd be prepared with a good filter wrench and not one of those cheap strap ones. This one is not to expensive and you will never break it. I think I got this one at a NAPA store.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:21 PM   #6
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ISL9 oil change

Quote:
Originally Posted by salemroad View Post
...Any tips that will make this go smoothly?

Yep...the phone number for your nearest Cummins shop. 😉

Always works for me.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:51 PM   #7
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I found Rotella rates higher than Delo. Walmart sells both.
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:07 AM   #8
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All good advice so far, and I would use the type oil that the PO used, JMHO. And don't forget to lube the coach at the same time as the oil change, front end, driveshaft, u-joints! Dirty job, but someone has to do it, and if you do it, you know it has been done right! Rail!
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salemroad View Post
I'm getting ready to change the oil in our 45' diesel pusher for the first time.
I have purchased the oil (DELO 15W40), a wicks filter, a monster funnel, and 2 16 quart drain containers. Also plan on changing the fuel filters at the same time. Any tips that will make this go smoothly?
Thanks,
JD
One of the first things I would do is go to Cummins Quick Serve and register my engine serial number. This is the same database the dealer uses to look up info on your engine.
https://quickserve.cummins.com/qs3/portal/index.html
A big tub is a good way to go. Hear is a link to one. When you are done just dip it out and refill the empty oil jugs. I have a 2quart plastic pitcher that works and if you are carful not that messy.
Plasgad Black Large Concrete Mixing Tub-887102C - The Home Depot
Hear is a link to the filter wrench I use. It works great as there isn't much room to grab anything but the bottom of the filter.
Sears.com
I run Shell Rotella T-6 and they have a $5.00 per gallon rebate right now. I know you will hear you don't need a full synthetic oil. I run it for the extra protection to the turbo. I like it because my oil samples come back from the lab looking great. If you are going to do oil sampling pull and send your samples in early enough you can have the results back before you drain your oil. If you get a bad report you need to be able to send a second sample to verify or to double check the results.
I run Fleetguard filters. Look on Quick Serve to get the right part number for your engine.
Go here and you can learn lots of tips on doing your own maintenance.
Diesel Motorhome Chassis Service
If you don't have documentation as to when a filter was changed just figure it needs to be changed so you have a good baseline for future maintenance.
One other thing is to pull a sample from the transmission and see how that is doing.
I do all my own maintenance and it is not that bad.
Something else to check is see if you have oil bath front hubs. Make sure the oil level is good.
One other thing I would recommend is to start a file of all part numbers it will save you time latter.
Bill
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:46 AM   #10
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Use a 6point socket to remove the pan bolt. Mine was tight and the corners were rounded. A breaker bar and a 6pt is the correct tool to prevent damage
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Playtime III View Post
Use a 6point socket to remove the pan bolt. Mine was tight and the corners were rounded. A breaker bar and a 6pt is the correct tool to prevent damage
That is a good point.
Bill
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dons2346 View Post
Oil filters can be pretty tough to spin off, so can fuel filters. Some mechanics have the grip of a gorilla and really tighten them. I'd be prepared with a good filter wrench and not one of those cheap strap ones. This one is not to expensive and you will never break it. I think I got this one at a NAPA store.

I have at least two and I think three of those from NAPA due to the various sizes I needed for the '02 DSDP. Broke one with the fabric strap so got some good ones.
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Old 10-22-2016, 01:06 PM   #13
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After draining the oil pan, I move my container under the filter, loosen the filter 2 or 3 turns, then drive a spike into the bottom of it, pull the spike and let the filter drain.
I've fumbled a full oil filter before, and it ain't much fun
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:29 PM   #14
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If you plan to do your oil changes in the future, I'd suggest installing a Fumoto oil drain valve in place of the drain plug. It makes draining the oil a lot easier and if your drain pan is smaller than your crankcase capacity, you can stop the flow without getting slopped up. Some people use the Fumoto valve with the spout and drain a gallon at a time into their oil containers from the previous oil change.
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