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Old 05-12-2015, 09:00 AM   #15
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Based on the last six characters of my VIN, the Freightliner parts counter told me these are my Cummins part numbers for a pump and serpentine belt:

Water pump 3286278 $36 (Ebay)
Belt 3289257 $51 (Ebay)

I called the Ebay seller to confirm what I bought from them translates to the Cummins part number and it is what I need. Should be a cheap repair.

From my keyboard to God's eyes, I hope...
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:21 AM   #16
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Lets try a new cap first before the expensive stuff. I've seen this happen many times. The give away is the fact that the pressure test did not show you a leak.

What was different in the system when you did the pressure test? You replaced the cap with the tester, right????

Please keep us informed on this one. Oh, by the way, I'm thinking you should be able to drop the radiator out though the bottom. Just guessing not having seen the space.

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Old 05-12-2015, 09:37 AM   #17
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The rad cap is an easy and cheap test that is worth doing...
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:44 PM   #18
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An aside; I've seen faulty radiator caps right out of the box. Test the new one too.
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Old 05-22-2015, 09:28 AM   #19
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Sure would like to see an update on this one......
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:59 PM   #20
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Buy a plastic coolant recovery tank. Place the overflow hose into the recovery tank. Then the overflowed coolant will blow into it instead of the ground. When engine is cool, fluid will flow back into engine. That's what I did and no more coolant loss.


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Old 05-31-2015, 08:45 AM   #21
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Sorry for the late update, as it has been very hard to get my friend mechanic that used to run a truck facility to respond to my calls for assistance.

I finally got him on the phone and, based on my suspicions, he agrees that it may be the water pump. He is going to try and make time to do a coolant system test with the engine running.

At the rate he charges me, I am just going to have him replace the water pump, either way. He told me to leave the part in the coach and he will take it to his bud's two bay shop and take a look.

I am also going to have him install my Safe-T-Plus. I don't have the air tools to remove the massive suspension bolts.

Sure hope it is the water pump and not the rad!!!!

I will post new info when available.
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:58 AM   #22
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On the rad cap tip, anyone know what the specific rating may be? Who knows if my 13lb cap is even correct..

I like the overflow tank idea!
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:43 PM   #23
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13 is pretty low in modern times, but acceptable. For comparison my 2001 ISB powered truck has a 15lb cap.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:46 PM   #24
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The manufacture will designate the proper pressure cap for that system.......the higher the pressure the higher the boil point...........but you don't want to try to run a higher pressure cap if the cooling system was not designed to operate at that pressure. Mine also has a 15# cap.
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Old 05-31-2015, 05:44 PM   #25
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Am I the only one who sees coolant coming from the recovery tank cap? Check to see if the rubber seal in the bottom of the cap is bad or missing. Mine was and going up any hill allowed the coolant to spill out. Maybe I'm wrong but easy fix stuff first....
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamfolger View Post
Am I the only one who sees coolant coming from the recovery tank cap? Check to see if the rubber seal in the bottom of the cap is bad or missing. Mine was and going up any hill allowed the coolant to spill out. Maybe I'm wrong but easy fix stuff first....
I may be missing something too, as I can't agree on the water pump being the coolant loss issue if you are not seeing a leak from it. Water pumps leak at very low pressure if they leak at all, and once the seal goes out, it leaks all the time, not just when the engine is running.

And all this time, the cap, where in all the pictures I've seen has a trail of dried fluid coming directly from it at the top of the radiator.

I'm wishing the OP the best of luck getting this issue sorted out, but I'm afraid he's about to spend more than he should have to resolve it.

Just my 2cts
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Old 06-02-2015, 01:57 PM   #27
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The wet part of the front of the radiator is spillage when I twisted the pressure tester cap off before releasing the built up rad pressure...

The rad is dry during operation, as far as I can tell.

If you look at the pictures of the pump area, you can see everything looks very clean with no dirt/oil buildup. Like it was steam cleaned. I think the leak is in this area.

My mechanic is supposed to be by today to do some engine on testing. I am in another state and have to just wait until he calls me with info.
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:39 PM   #28
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Check the cap. It's easy and it was an issue on my coach. I posted about it here.
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