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05-12-2015, 09:00 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 682
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Based on the last six characters of my VIN, the Freightliner parts counter told me these are my Cummins part numbers for a pump and serpentine belt:
Water pump 3286278 $36 (Ebay)
Belt 3289257 $51 (Ebay)
I called the Ebay seller to confirm what I bought from them translates to the Cummins part number and it is what I need. Should be a cheap repair.
From my keyboard to God's eyes, I hope...
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05-12-2015, 09:21 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,368
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Lets try a new cap first before the expensive stuff. I've seen this happen many times. The give away is the fact that the pressure test did not show you a leak.
What was different in the system when you did the pressure test? You replaced the cap with the tester, right????
Please keep us informed on this one. Oh, by the way, I'm thinking you should be able to drop the radiator out though the bottom. Just guessing not having seen the space.
DTW
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Dan & Loretta, US Army Retired Aero Scout Pilot
2012 Fleetwood Providence 42P Class A/DP
Spartan Chassis, 8.9L Cummins 450HP
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05-12-2015, 09:37 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 682
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The rad cap is an easy and cheap test that is worth doing...
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MotorHomeless At This Time...
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05-21-2015, 07:44 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,971
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An aside; I've seen faulty radiator caps right out of the box. Test the new one too.
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2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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05-22-2015, 09:28 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,368
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Sure would like to see an update on this one......
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Dan & Loretta, US Army Retired Aero Scout Pilot
2012 Fleetwood Providence 42P Class A/DP
Spartan Chassis, 8.9L Cummins 450HP
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05-29-2015, 11:59 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: cayucos, ca
Posts: 1,299
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Buy a plastic coolant recovery tank. Place the overflow hose into the recovery tank. Then the overflowed coolant will blow into it instead of the ground. When engine is cool, fluid will flow back into engine. That's what I did and no more coolant loss.
Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum
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Ross Starkenburg
2017 Newmar Dutch Star 4369. Spartan chassis w/full disc brakes. 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
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05-31-2015, 08:45 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 682
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Sorry for the late update, as it has been very hard to get my friend mechanic that used to run a truck facility to respond to my calls for assistance.
I finally got him on the phone and, based on my suspicions, he agrees that it may be the water pump. He is going to try and make time to do a coolant system test with the engine running.
At the rate he charges me, I am just going to have him replace the water pump, either way. He told me to leave the part in the coach and he will take it to his bud's two bay shop and take a look.
I am also going to have him install my Safe-T-Plus. I don't have the air tools to remove the massive suspension bolts.
Sure hope it is the water pump and not the rad!!!!
I will post new info when available.
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05-31-2015, 10:58 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 682
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On the rad cap tip, anyone know what the specific rating may be? Who knows if my 13lb cap is even correct..
I like the overflow tank idea!
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05-31-2015, 04:43 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 908
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13 is pretty low in modern times, but acceptable. For comparison my 2001 ISB powered truck has a 15lb cap.
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2001 HO Cummins powered Dodge 2500
2014 Sierra 346RETS
Nights camped in 2014-28
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05-31-2015, 04:46 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 10,310
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The manufacture will designate the proper pressure cap for that system.......the higher the pressure the higher the boil point...........but you don't want to try to run a higher pressure cap if the cooling system was not designed to operate at that pressure. Mine also has a 15# cap.
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2012 Essex 4544 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006 Ultra & 1989 Springer, 2003 Harley-Davidson
FLHR Road King Anniversary
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05-31-2015, 05:44 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: MotherLoad foothills approx.60 m.s east of Sacramento
Posts: 1,281
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Am I the only one who sees coolant coming from the recovery tank cap? Check to see if the rubber seal in the bottom of the cap is bad or missing. Mine was and going up any hill allowed the coolant to spill out. Maybe I'm wrong but easy fix stuff first....
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Full time since Nov 2012 RVM#41 Gary and Marian Hill 2001 Monaco Dynasty Jack 38' 370 hp ....If it ain't broke I can still fix it.
Like putting shoes on an octopuss, so are the days of our lives....
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06-01-2015, 09:07 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamfolger
Am I the only one who sees coolant coming from the recovery tank cap? Check to see if the rubber seal in the bottom of the cap is bad or missing. Mine was and going up any hill allowed the coolant to spill out. Maybe I'm wrong but easy fix stuff first....
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I may be missing something too, as I can't agree on the water pump being the coolant loss issue if you are not seeing a leak from it. Water pumps leak at very low pressure if they leak at all, and once the seal goes out, it leaks all the time, not just when the engine is running.
And all this time, the cap, where in all the pictures I've seen has a trail of dried fluid coming directly from it at the top of the radiator.
I'm wishing the OP the best of luck getting this issue sorted out, but I'm afraid he's about to spend more than he should have to resolve it.
Just my 2cts
DTW
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Dan & Loretta, US Army Retired Aero Scout Pilot
2012 Fleetwood Providence 42P Class A/DP
Spartan Chassis, 8.9L Cummins 450HP
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06-02-2015, 01:57 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 682
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The wet part of the front of the radiator is spillage when I twisted the pressure tester cap off before releasing the built up rad pressure...
The rad is dry during operation, as far as I can tell.
If you look at the pictures of the pump area, you can see everything looks very clean with no dirt/oil buildup. Like it was steam cleaned. I think the leak is in this area.
My mechanic is supposed to be by today to do some engine on testing. I am in another state and have to just wait until he calls me with info.
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06-02-2015, 05:39 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Full Timing
Posts: 751
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Check the cap. It's easy and it was an issue on my coach. I posted about it here.
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Mike
2003 Alpine Coach 40MDTS - 400HP Cummins ISL
Can Am Spyder Roadster
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