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Old 07-01-2013, 11:59 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Roseville MN sum / La Feria Tx winter
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Ongoing wont start saga

I have been fighting a it wont start when hot issue for months. Today a friend who is a master electrician stopped by to pick up a extra rear tire wheel for his goldwing motorcycle and I charged him a consult for the effort. (We all know nothing is free anymore),

I had starter removed and tested, I had eng batteries removed and load tested, I replaced both of the ford style selanoids in the drivers rear box. I have bypassed the salesman switch.

I show 13.9 volts on the solar controller and same on the gs7 inverter control but I found that the volt meter on dash only shows about 6 volts.

We traced voltages and found that the bottom ford style selanoid in the front run bay outside under the drivers feet had low voltage. I replaced it and doing so I found that the disconnect switch for the engine batteries shuts off the power to the front power box.

It now seems to have better voltage to the box and started a half dozen times without problem.

Am I missing anything I dont want to shut it off hot somewhere and not have it start. OH yes when it did not start if I started gen and let it run a couple minutes the cummins would start????

Sheri & Don 2003 Dynasty 42" regal ISL 400
2007 Goldwing Trike Gmc 4X4 w/ autoloader for trike
Lets go we got it all loaded.
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:21 AM   #2
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Odds are it was the last solenoid you replaced. One thing I did not hear you say, is that you cleaned ground cables and might as well clean battery terminal connections too.

Best of luck, and hope you gotit!

Roo II is our 04 Country Coach Allure 40'
OnDRoad for The JRNY! Enjoy life...
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:38 PM   #3
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Have been reading lately of several people having problems with bad manual battery disconnect switches. In a couple of cases the switches actually fell apart when being switched. You might want to put both cables on one post just to test this theory.
Brian, Loretta & Daisy (Golden Retriever)
2008 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40 PDQ , ISL 400
2014 Ford Explorer toad
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:48 PM   #4
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When this occurs do you hear a loud clunk like the starter is trying to kick in?

As someone suggested there have been battery cutoff issues and I thought I was having the problem in the last few weeks. When the new heavy duty switches arrived I took the old one apart and it is like new. The starter power does not pass through my switch because the wire just uses the switch post to stack them together and the switch part sends power up front which I will address later.

My starter would go clunk, clunk, clunk as if it was trying to engage. I hit the boost switch which combines the batteries and it takes off. Today I tried each of my engine batteries seperately and then disconnected them both. Using just the emergency start button pressed it fired right up which also demonstrated my shut off switch is totally functional.

What may be happening in my case is the starter solenoid is arced and finds a bad spot. The extra voltage from the aux bank pushes through when the issue arises.

Now for your issue about the low voltage up front. As an ET with 40 yrs it seems fixing the obvious symptom often cures weird ones. If you have low voltage up front there may not be enough when it returns to the starter solenoid to have it kick in. That goes back to my question about hearing any noise in the engine compartment.

On some models there are splices in the main power wires going from the battery area to the front run area. I will search for the previous posts on that issue and attach them.
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
2012 Ford Edge Limited FWD 3.5L
Aluminator tow bar, Demco base plate
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:51 PM   #5
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No electricity in Coach

Scroll to number 5 comment and pictures.
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
2012 Ford Edge Limited FWD 3.5L
Aluminator tow bar, Demco base plate
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