Operating temps in hot weather, ISL

[smlranger]

Just curious what coolant temps folks with the ISL (mine is the 425 with DPF) see when running in hotter weather.

Mine is side radiator, OAT coolant, and I believe Cummins told me I have a 185F thermostat. On a recent short trip with ambient temps of 95 -97, I would see as low as 188 on level road and up to 201 on short, steep climbs. I always downshift to keep rpm's up on hills, even if I am using the cruise control.

These temps seem fine to me but was curious what others generally see.

[Rich-n-Linda]

We also have the ISL in the side radiator configuration. My temps are very close to yours, just slightly higher.

[Lv2Roam2]

With ISL 450 and gross weight w/toad at 44K in ambients up to 102 my temps are 185 in the flats and 205 on the long hills. I do throttle back on significant hills and keep RPM at 2000 - 2200 ...

[BrianGlenn]

I just replaced thermostat with a new 180F and I see 190 to 200F normally, 205 on long uphills.

My old original thermostat ran 178-185 normally, spring was weak near the end.

Brian

[koda59]

I have the ISL 400 and my temps run 197 to 199 on my scanguage.

[DAJO]

Any one notice any difference with a/c on or off. My 425 runs just under 200 with a/c off and lower 180 with a/c on. Cooling fan must be running in high most of the time with a/c on. Would probably burn less fuel with gen on and hyd fan not running on high speed.

[becks]

Mine runs 195-197 on flat ground and 198 - 203 on hills.

[Rich-n-Linda]

The side-radiator Freightliner chassis with the hydraulic fan will run cooler with the AC on. It has a sensor on the high side of the AC compressor. At 225 psi, the AC commands the fan to run fast.

[Smitty77]

Apples to Oranges, and no way to really compare the info always. Some include their engine, and year, others do not. Some mention Side vs Rear Radiator. What weight are you going down the road? Or up a hill, is another valid question. What kind of coolant? Do you let the ECM's between Cummins and Allison do the shifting, or do you down shift based upon what you see coming ahead do you? If you do downshift, what RPM do you try to maintain while hill climbing? And of course, was it a full moon, did the cow in the field beside the roadway look in your direction, or not? Is your radiator cleaned on a yearly maintenance schedule? Was it 40 degrees outside, or over 100 degrees?

All of these, will cause a variability on what teams you might see? (And for those of you looking at the cow on the side of the road - STOP IT! Keep your eyes on the road at all times. As you need know when a 2004 40' Allure Country Coach could be near, and you for sure, do not want to bump into that dude!

We have a 2004 model coach, running a ISL370 CAPS era engine. With toad we run about 37K weight while traveling. Side Radiator is cleaned yearly, or more often if I feel it needs it. We run with Final Charge coolant. We have a newer OEM cummins thermostat. And we run with the Source Engineering Wax Valve solution. I down shift manually based upon road conditions. For hill climbing, I run between say 1750-2150 RPM. (Start at a gear that gets me + of - 100 RPM from 2000. Then downshift as needed to maintain RPM's. I also monitor EGT levels, and if holding 1175-1225 for too long, also down shift to raise RPM's, regardless of temperature and or hill climbing speed. Today, in 92-94 degree outside temperatures, we climbed severe long grades and our water temperature climbed from the normal 180-185 levels to above 190 and closer to just below 200 a few times.

But again, I also had bugs on the windshield, and could not see the cow on the side of the road, and that could have made a difference too!

Best to all,
Smitty

[Rich-n-Linda]

Smitty, could you email me with your impression of the Source Engineering fan control solution? I am considering making that change...

[Tigerfan1]

Smitty, how do you clean your radiator. Do you de stack and clean and what do you use to clean it with. I am asking because I am guilty of not staying on top of this maint. issue.

[CaptV1VR]

Recently Purchased a 2004 Monaco Windsor with ISL 400.
Temps of 198-204 on flat to medium grades in 80's to low 90 degree weather. Transmission temps about the same
Thinking of replacing the Thermostat when I flush the Coolant

The question would is, how do I know what temps Cummins reccomends for this engine and would a 190 Thermostat be a better solution?

Heard above 225 is about max for both
Thank you

[jleamo1]

Clean my cooling package yearly. On my coach its very simple...messy but simple.
I use this product;
Extreme Simple Green Motorsports Cleaner & Deg
I put it into a garden pump sprayer and stick the nozzle between the radiator and air Charge cooler and soak it down, let it sit 10 minutes, soak it down again, let it sit and hose it out with a garden hose and a typical hand sprayer. Monaco for one reason or another has openings that I can gain access into the critical area. I spray the water from the fan to the outside and back the other way until the foam is all gone, usually the water looks like Yoo-hoo.
My temps, usually in the low 180's, if its 95 out I am around 190 on the Scan Guage. Dash gauge is off by a good 20 degrees.

[Smitty77]

Originally Posted by jleamo1

Clean my cooling package yearly. On my coach its very simple...messy but simple.
I use this product;
Extreme Simple Green Motorsports Cleaner & Deg
I put it into a garden pump sprayer and stick the nozzle between the radiator and air Charge cooler and soak it down, let it sit 10 minutes, soak it down again, let it sit and hose it out with a garden hose and a typical hand sprayer. Monaco for one reason or another has openings that I can gain access into the critical area. I spray the water from the fan to the outside and back the other way until the foam is all gone, usually the water looks like Yoo-hoo.
My temps, usually in the low 180's, if its 95 out I am around 190 on the Scan Guage. Dash gauge is off by a good 20 degrees.

Pretty much X's 2. Side radiators are a bit easier to clean. I do two cleanings cycles fro the inside out, working around fans. Then also clean from the outside in at least once (One time I did this twice, as the clean rinse still had dirt showing as I rinsed.) Then finally on more rinse from the inside.

I then go drive the coach long enough to get to full temp, and let things dry our a bit faster.

Anytime I wash the coach, I do also spray from the outside in. With the normal caution that if a place with a power washer, not to use it on high pressure, as it will damage the fins. (Surprisingly, it was the tech at Cummins Coach Care that proved that to me, as I was watching him clean both the engine bay, and radiator, after I went thru some fresh runoff of a concrete strip being cut on I15 going thru Las Vegas (About two miles of this grey grit slop all over the back of the freshly waxed coach, and toad.) Was into Cummins for them to do some other things, and asked them to go ahead and clean the engine and radiator for me too. As I watched, the tech hit the side radiator from the outside, with full force. Took me 20 seconds to get his attention and give him the cut across the throat signal. But by then, many of the fins of the radiator and cooler had been slightly bent in the direction of the sprayer. After some conversation with the tech, who blew me off at first, and then the manager. I returned after they purchased a brush to help uncurl the fins. They spent about 30 minutes on it, and got it much better - but dang if every time I look at it, I don't think of the tech's response to me when I pointed out the bent fins: 'Oh that don't hurt nothing. We do it this way all the time. You RV owners worry to much.' It was not just the words, it was the tone and dismissive way that he said it...

So, suggest a light to medium pressure if using any kind of a power rinser on the radiator!

Best,
Smitty