Community Forums

Jthigh · 11-20-2018, 06:32 AM

Just read this thread about the CAPS and lift pumps. A lot of great information on symptoms and solutions. My system is still OEM and running fine. I don’t want to introduce any problems so looking at preventative measures right now. Coach is 16 years young and I am the second owner and have had it for 2.5 years.

I currently use a fuel additive every fill up for lubrication, cetane boost, and demulsification. I have never used a Biocide or used Diesel Clean but am concerned about algee growth in the tank. Since I don’t know the history of the tank I was concerned that performing a tank clean process would damage my lift pump or CAPS. Didn’t want 16 years of crap to break loose at once and cause havoc. I purchased materials and built an external pump and filter system to polish the fuel and clean out the tank but have reservations about doing the process. Any thoughts on performing the tank clean or just let sleeping dogs lie.

Don’t want to hijack the CAPS thread so I can post a new thread if needed.

Thanks

barmcd · 11-20-2018, 10:10 AM

If you don't have any symptoms I wouldn't worry about polishing the fuel.

Jthigh · 11-20-2018, 11:06 AM

The thought was to fill tank and add appropriate amount of biocide and tank cleaner. Let in set awhile to break down the algee, then start the polishing to clean up tank. It’s either that or never add any biocide until something happens. I tend to agree with you about holding off and hopefully that it will never be an issue.

MRUSA14 · 11-20-2018, 11:14 AM

Makes me think of the saying: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Podivin · 11-20-2018, 11:14 AM

The pump you're using needs to be a HIGH speed/pressure pump for proper polishing. The idea is to churn the fuel in the tank to stir up the gunk.
I've had the fuel polished on a boat I owned, simple (especially for me, all I did is watch) and effective, judging by how dirty his filters got. Not inexpensive though.
If you've got a lower speed pump it still could do some good just to pump the fuel through the filters, though of course that's always happening just when you run the engine.

However, I'm in the 'leave it alone' group if you're not currently having problems.
Carry an extra filter or two, and be competent enough in changing them to be able to do it along the side of the road, should the need arise.

twinboat · 11-20-2018, 11:36 AM

Drive it !

While the engine is running, the fuel is being circulated thru the filters and back to the tank.

The fuel is sloshing around as you cruise down the road.

If you can't drive it enough to keep the fuel clean, maybe a gassed or trailer would be a better choice.

Finance · 11-20-2018, 01:46 PM

^^^ Yep. Fuel tank problems mostly result from disuse.

Jthigh · 11-20-2018, 02:59 PM

Using it is not a problem. Both the DW and I enjoy the adventure. We’ve put 25k miles in 2.5 years.

To answer Podivin’s question. I have a low pressure, high flow 10GPM transfer pump. Figured the 10GPM with the biocide would be enough turbulence to clean sides of tank.

Sounds like the best thing to do is keep rolling. That’s easy, I like easy.

Do any of you do a biocide for algee on a regular basis?

Finance · 11-20-2018, 03:18 PM

We spend winter in FL mostly parked for 5-6 months. I add biocide and fill the tank before we park.

PRO-BILT · 11-20-2018, 05:11 PM

I have a 2002 as well. Last year I replaced the fuel sending unit. So I pulled the tank thinking I could kill 2 birds at 1 time and clean it out also. I only had it for a year before that and was worried about the history. To my surprise it was squeaky clean, only a few small pieces of debris.

Jthigh · 11-20-2018, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRO-BILT

I have a 2002 as well. Last year I replaced the fuel sending unit. So I pulled the tank thinking I could kill 2 birds at 1 time and clean it out also. I only had it for a year before that and was worried about the history. To my surprise it was squeaky clean, only a few small pieces of debris.

That’s encouraging.

Ray,IN · 11-21-2018, 12:18 PM

Only buy diesel fuel from a high-turnover station. Remember the old adage, garbage in, garbage out.
There's a station near our house that always priced diesel fuel ~50 cents lower than anyone else. I filled my dually Duramax there ONCE. Took me a month to fully resolve the ensuing problems, and I spend many times the money saved at that station. Diesel engines do not like water, nor do the injectors survive well.

Winemaker2 · 11-21-2018, 03:04 PM

Full disclosure - I'm no expert but do have a diesel boat and MH and have done a fair amount of reading about fuel cleanliness & polishing.
I have put water in the diesel fuel fill - many boaters say how is that possible? trust me it happens to the best of us but hopefully only once.
I did an extensive DIY drain, off-line filtering and finished w/ monitoring & frequent Racor filter / separator change and had no issues after.

Your diesel engine circulates & filters more fuel than is burned and returns the excess to the tank - that's essentially what polishing is
Bio growth in diesel fuel needs 3 things - Food (diesel fuel itself), water (condensation, leakage or a "bad" load of fuel) and the right temp range 50* - 100*F
Microbes grow at the water / fuel interface
Biocides prevent/ inhibit growth don't cure an existing problem - that's when you need to remove the fuel, clean the tanks and filter / polish the fuel being returned

Following excerpts from a boater guide to DIY Fuel Polishing

When might you need to polish your fuel?

When your boat has sat for a while in a humid climate (particularly with day/night temperature swings causing heavy dew or fog, both indicators that condensation is likely in the tank)

A new-to-you boat that hasn’t been used recently.

Discovering that the fuel cap was loose and water/dirt may have entered the tank.

Someone confusing the water and fuel fills and putting water in the fuel. Yes, this happens.

Getting a load of “bad fuel.”

Discovering an abnormal amount of water or debris in your Racor filter.

Before going out in “boisterous” conditions if the fuel hasn’t been polished recently — any water and debris that has settled to the bottom of the tank will be stirred up with the motion of the boat.

If you have not noticed a higher than normal accumulation of water in your fuel filter or noticed significant filter clogging I would not worry about polishing unless one or more of the above boater conditions applies to your motorhome.
Use of an additive especially a biocide should not hurt anything and may help especially if unit is being stored for an extended period.
I use additives w/ biocides when storing boat & MH for odd season but not for normal in season fill ups. I also make sure to add a winterization (anti-gel) formula to the MH in the fall as we do start a trip S in Feb and do not want to deal w/ gelling.

Hope that helps some - there are lots of articles on additives & polishing - many boating related but conditions are frequently similar to MHs

Jthigh · 11-22-2018, 06:04 AM

Thanks for all the feedback. The title of the thread may be a little misleading. I am not concearned about the fuel that is in the coach right now but more so if i was to put tank cleaner / biocide in the system. I was cornered that if the tank had never been cleaned I would get years of debris to break loose from inside tank walls and then get into the fuel, hence performing the fuel clean / flush process.

I’ll keep the tank full when parked to avoid condensation and hold off on putting in a tank cleaner unless a problem arises.

Thanks again for all the responses.