Pyrometer installation

[rustbuckett611]

I plan on installing a pyrometer to keep an eye on my exhaust temp, (up hills). Has enyone done this? What brand did you use? 2002 Monaco Knight 32' ISB 275hp.

[rustbuckett611]

I plan on installing a pyrometer to keep an eye on my exhaust temp, (up hills). Has enyone done this? What brand did you use? 2002 Monaco Knight 32' ISB 275hp.

[Mike Canter]

Yes, I have installed one. I bought it from Banks. It is interesting to watch. The ultimate EGT for a well tuned diesel is 1300*F. If you are going up a hill and you haven't had the transmission kickdown and the turb hasn't spooled up then don't let it get over 1350*F, kickdown the tranny if required. Wide open full load with turbo spooled up should be 1300*F. To install it you have to unbolt and remove the turbo before you drill a hole in the exhaust manifold so metal doesn't get into the turbo.I would highly recommend also adding a boost gauge at the same time. Feel free to ask anymore questions or email me at mike.c@mindspring.com

[Sixpack98]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike Canter:
Yes, I have installed one. I bought it from Banks. It is interesting to watch. The ultimate EGT for a well tuned diesel is 1300*F. If you are going up a hill and you haven't had the transmission kickdown and the turb hasn't spooled up then don't let it get over 1350*F, kickdown the tranny if required. Wide open full load with turbo spooled up should be 1300*F. To install it you have to unbolt and remove the turbo before you drill a hole in the exhaust manifold so metal doesn't get into the turbo.I would highly recommend also adding a boost gauge at the same time. Feel free to ask anymore questions or email me at mike.c@mindspring.com </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Mike,
The PacBrake has a 1/4 or so plug in the body of the exhaust brake. Would it be acceptable to install the pyrometer in that hole?

mark

[RustyJC]

The temperatures Mike is mentioning are measured pre-turbo (i.e., ahead of the turbocharger). If you install the thermocouple in the exhaust brake, you are measuring post-turbo (i.e., after the turbocharger). Either is acceptable with pre-turbo preferred if the engine has been modified at all, but the temperatures will be radically different - at full load/full speed, the post-turbo temperature can be as much as 500 degF lower than the pre-turbo temperature on a modified engine. The thermocouple in my ISB is installed pre-turbo. As Mike mentioned, when factory stock, my HO-series ISB would max out at 1300 degF pre-turbo, but with the current injectors and "box", I can reach 1450 degF if I don't watch what my right foot is doing. In this case, I "drive by the pyrometer" on the long grades.

Rusty

[Mike Canter]

Rusty is 100% correct on location. You need the probe in the exhaust manifold just before the turbo. I also drive in the mountains while watching the EGT and if it gets to 1350*f I will kick the transmission down and bring in more boost which will cool it down. Anything over 1350* for a long period of time will damage the motor or greatly reduce its life. One thing here is the richer the mixture is (too much fuel) the higher the EGT and if too lean the cooler it is which is totally opposite to a gas engine.

Also there is no relationship between water/radiator temperatures and EGT. Just incase somebody is wondering.

[rotts4u]

On my Dodge Ram truck with the Cummins Diesel in it I also added a EGT pre turbo. But I did it with the turbo mounted. I read about many others in the truck world added probes without taking off the turbo so I followed their advice.

1. After you find the location to drill the exhaust manifold punch it using a center punch.
2. Let the engine cool completely and drill the manifold but not all the way through yet.
3. Just before you break through the other side employ the following cautions.
a. Cover the drill bit with a drillbit
magnet
b. Start the engine and Cover the bit with
grease
c Use a shop vac as you drill also.

I have used that procedure several times and never had any issues. The pressure from the manifold will blow outward any metal that would normally fall inside and of course the grease and magnet help too.

I agree it is a bit of a risk but I am 2 for 2 on my Dodge trucks so far.

[Zbugsii]

I would love to install one in my coach, but do not seem to be able to find a decent kit. Plus, I was under the impression that the pyrometer had to be relatively close to where the gauge will be mounted. So, going from the very back of the coach all the way to the front seems to be to far, or am I mistaken?

[Mike Canter]

Zbugsii, yes you are mistaken. The Banks pyrometer I have is built for diesel pushers and the wire from the sensor to the gauge is 40+ft long and cannot be cut because it will change the accuracy of the gauge. It is a totally calibrated unit. I have the excess wire coiled up neatly under the instrument panel.
http://www.bankspower.com/products/show/150/51

[Zbugsii]

Mike,

Thanks, you are right, the Banks PN 64007 comes with a 55' cable...

Just great, now another project. Guess I will do it along with replacing my inverter/charger.

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

I've installed a couple of them on dodge pickups.

I prefer to drill into the top of the manifold. I just use grease on the drill bit and tap, and the location is over a horizontal run of the manifold, so I use a magnet to clean up any flakes that fall in.

Geno's garage has a bunch of different brands. I ran Isspro, but the only reason I went with that brand was the white face, green back lighting, and orange needle that matches the rest of the Dodge dash...

Anyway, be sure to hit the probe fitting with some high temp anti-seize.