Source Engineering Wax Valve

[Crop Duster]

Have any of you installed the SE wax valve yourself?

[Mr_D]

Seems I remember one did over on the CC forum. Not something I plan on trying!

[oldmattb]

sort of yes.

I removed it for testing for proper operation. When removed and heated, one can see the valve move.

Removal required grinding a deep socket down to almost paper thin, and removing the bolts with a small breaker bar. There was not enough room for a standard socket wrench to ratchet. With all of that, I had to grind the valve itself for enough clearance to remove it. Appears that it was installed BEFORE the radiator was installed in the coach.

The valve was operating properly. Our issue was a restrictor valve installed in line. The intention was to reduce the dash AC head pressure at idle. The unintended consequence was that neither engine nor transmission would reach proper operating temperature.


I hope this helps.

Matt B

[John Jones]

I did it on my 2000 Allure.

I was lucky and had a bung that was under my top radiator hose. It wasn't too bad of a job. I removed the bung, inserted the wax valve and hooked up the hydraulic hoses. Of course I had to drain some of the radiator into a bucket, but that was easy.

After I was done, the temp was normal and my fan wasn't always running on high.

[High Ball]

Was going to install one but when I called to get one they told me that you can't install this system on a Freightliner chassis.

[TR4]

I purchased all the parts needed for the wax valve separately. Takes more time to get all the parts together, but the total cost was under $400. Installation was fairly easy. Drain the block by opening the peacock by the oil filter. Remove the thermostat housing. Take housing to a welding shop and have them weld on the bung (welder charged me $10-). Replace housing and thermostat with a new gasket. I replaced the thermostat at the same time. Follow the directions from Source for the hoses. The engine runs at 184 to 186 F, on hard pulls it goes to 200 F.

Here’s a good thread on the wax valve. I’ve also posted parts I purchased.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/fan-...en-376611.html

Bill

[dons2346]

Here are a couple of pix of the install on my ISC

[Crop Duster]

Originally Posted by TR4

I purchased all the parts needed for the wax valve separately. Takes more time to get all the parts together, but the total cost was under $400. Installation was fairly easy. Drain the block by opening the peacock by the oil filter. Remove the thermostat housing. Take housing to a welding shop and have them weld on the bung (welder charged me $10-). Replace housing and thermostat with a new gasket. I replaced the thermostat at the same time. Follow the directions from Source for the hoses. The engine runs at 184 to 186 F, on hard pulls it goes to 200 F.

Here’s a good thread on the wax valve. I’ve also posted parts I purchased.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/fan-...en-376611.html

Bill

Bill, does the old valve have to come out? Or could we simply remove the hoses and proceed with installation as you described?

[2 Stroker]

Originally Posted by Crop Duster

Bill, does the old valve have to come out? Or could we simply remove the hoses and proceed with installation as you described?

I had my wax valve at Source and they left the old one in place and welded a bung in my upper radiator pipe. Then they add extra hoses and attached them to the valve. This is about the same as Don's but mine is a Cat C9.

[TR4]

Originally Posted by Crop Duster

Bill, does the old valve have to come out? Or could we simply remove the hoses and proceed with installation as you described?

If we’re talking about the Sauer Danfoss fan controller, then you can leave it in place. I disconnected my old controller and capped the hydraulic connections on the controller. If needed, I can simply reconnect the lines, plug in the electrical and use for backup.

Bill

[Crop Duster]

Thanks, everyone. We’re in Kansas for Christmas, without the MH, so I’ve had lots of time to research all of this. We haven’t had the CC very long so it’s taking me a little time to get used to all of the systems. I’ve noticed that the fan seems to be roaring when I do a walk around checking tires and temps. I suspect our controller is out because of low transmission temps. I think I knocked the trans temp wire off while changing the oil but with my IR temp gun it’s been running below 160 and the water temp has been steady in low 180’s. But, on our last 1800 mile trip we only got 6.5 mpg at 62-66. So, when we get home I’m going to verify what our hose sizes are and then order all the stuff to do the job. I really appreciate everyone’s assistance in identifying everything we need. Can’t wait to get started on this.

[Roy1]

Are you using the 210 degree wax valve? Seems most folks seem to report their coolent temp runs 190 to 200 degrees. My engine runs 210 degrees on flat or climbing in cool weather and 220 climbing in hot weather. It runs 200 degrees coasting down hill.This seems reasonable considering it is a 210 degree rated valve? Am I missing something or are most using a lower temp wax valve?

[William Willard]

I use a 199 degree wax valve - Bill Willard

[John Jones]

I'd call Jim at Source and see what he recommends.