Community Forums

Pogo · 01-04-2015, 09:58 AM

We have a 2004 HR, with a Cummins ISB 300 engine, and only 18,700 total miles on it. We went on a 2,000 mile trip in 2013, but only a 25 miles trip in 2014. The fuel tank is about 3/4 full.
I started the generator for 35 minutes of maintenance and it ran great. Then, I started the coach engine and let it idle a couple of minutes. The wipers started going, but I hadn't even touch the switch and I could not get them to stop. I shut the engine off, restarted, and the wipers stopped this time. After a few minutes, the check engine light came on. Then, in a couple more minutes, the stop engine light came on. I had about 65 psi oil pressure, the engine sounded good, and the outside temp was about 70 degrees. I shut the engine off.

I read about checking both coolant levels and I will do that. But, there is no fluid leak on the concrete. I am also wondering if maybe there is an issue with microbes growing in the fuel tank, but don't know at all.
Now, I guess I cannot even take it to a service center to have it checked and corrected. But, I did read that someone else drove their's and their stop engine light went off.
What ideas do you have? And, why did the wipers run for no apparent reason? Is that a clue to what happened?

Skip426 · 01-04-2015, 10:10 AM

If the stop engine light is on , there is a good chance that the engine will not rev up beyond 100o>1200 RPM so driving any distance could be a real challenge . Check your owners manual for info on this, if my engine protect light comes on the control module cuts power to about 130HP, just enough to allow you to move to exit the highway.
With multiple electrical issues happening after a long period of storage;
there is a good possibility that you have rodent damage to the wiring somewhere in the coach or corrosion on ground wiring somewhere.
Are your wiper controls , dash mounted, on a signal switch stalk or do you have a smart wheel?

Pogo · 01-05-2015, 08:11 AM

Thanks for your reply, Skip426. My wipers are on a dash mounted switch and I guess I don't have a smart wheel. I don't know that term. It is just a plain steering wheel with no cruise, wipers, radio, etc. on it.
I will check the grounds to see if they are clean and tight.
I don't have a rodent problem in the coach or in the yard. I always check for dropping and nest materials.
A friend of a friend said that Cummins 5.9L engine are known for sensors going bad. This is the engine I have. I have never had any issues ever before.

Skip426 · 01-05-2015, 08:37 AM

Pogo, " Smart Wheel " is the term for the high tech steering wheel , with the push button controls for, cruise, wipers and sometimes radio function, all in the hub of the wheel.
Something that may be worth a try, would be a chassis battery disconnect, and when the battery cables are off , hold the brake pedal down for 10secs. Holding the pedal will drain the engine control module's internal power supply , and should clear the codes , until the fault is detected again.
This should put the light out , but may make finding the cause difficult, until it re-occurs and can be scanned at the shop.

jacwjames · 01-06-2015, 12:38 PM

Pogo,
Do you have the diagnostic button/switch on the dash that should provide a blink code if there is a fault. If so what code does it show.

If you are not a member of the Cummins Quick Serve site I would join, it has lots of information including trouble shooting and codes. You need to create an account then use the engine SN to register the engine.

https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

Pogo · 01-08-2015, 06:54 PM

Thanks for your help, Jim. I really don't know if I have that or not. Do you know if that was installed on 2004 models? I will have to look into that. And, thanks for the Cummins Quick Serve info.
Skip, I will do what you offer to clear the codes. And, then see if it appears again. Thank you for that.
I love the great help that irv2 members offer.

Ray,IN · 01-09-2015, 08:01 PM

I would suggest your wiper switch is corroded, causing that problem, due to non-use.
Only using your engine for a 25 mile drive once in a year is likely the problem with the stop engine light. At this point I would drain the fuel tank until you get clean diesel with no trace of water/condensation, and lines, replace all fuel filters, add a biocide and fuel system cleaner, re-prime fuel system, allow to sit overnight, and run at high-idle for 8-10 minutes. If it continues to run, and you get no warning lights, go for a highway drive to further test the fuel system

Pogo · 01-14-2015, 06:42 PM

Ray, Your suggestions make sense to me. I will do that, and I bet that is what is needed.
All of you had smart ideas and I have learned from all of you.
Thank you.

dennis45 · 01-14-2015, 06:54 PM

Pogo,
Did you get a "Stop Engine" or "Check Engine" alarm. I have had a few Check Engine Alarms where the buzzer comes on with the dash light. The engine de-rates to reduce horsepower but does not die.
I have been chasing this for years and about the time I think I have it fixed, it happens again.

When it happens to me I just slow down and get to a good spot to pull over. Shut the engine off, let it sit for half a minute and restart. Alarm clears and I may not see it again for days or weeks.
I paid Cummins to hook up and check it. They could not see any error codes on the engine since day one. So, I will keep looking....

Pogo · 01-15-2015, 01:43 PM

Dennis45, I did not hear any alarm. I may not even have on. When this happened, I was sitting parked, with the engine idling, not driving as you were doing.
I plan to have some free time tomorrow to do all of the checking that everyone suggested. I hope it's not raining then.

Pogo · 02-01-2015, 09:49 AM

Thanks to you, I found that I had to add over a gallon of water to the plastic overflow tank. Then, I disconnected the battery for a couple of days and reconnected it. After topping off the chassis battery charge, I started the engine and let it run again for a while. This time, "no check engine" or "stop engine" light came on.
I had assumed that since there was no wet spot on the concrete, there could be no coolant leak, so there was no reason to check the level.
I was wrong. And, the oil level is right at where it should be.
So, do you know where the water/coolant went to? The last time we went somewhere, there was no check engine light that came on.

dennis45 · 02-01-2015, 10:36 AM

Hi Pogo,

Regular maintenance is key. It can get real expensive letting fluid levels etc get away on you.
As for the coolant, it's hard to say where it went. There are lots of connections where it can escape. I would refill the coolant and take an oil sample after you have run for a few miles and up to operating temperature. This will rule out any internal leaks like head gasket, oil cooler etc. I doubt this is the cause but peace of mind is everything. I take samples from the engine and transmission once a year just before I get the oil/filter changed. I am a big believer in routine samples.
Then, pay very close attention to the engine area looking for wet spots. It could be as simple as a leaking fitting around the expansion tank but these can be hard to spot and pinpoint the source. And keep an eye on the levels.

A couple of years ago while chasing the CEL, I had a coolant loss issue also. I had the Pressure Cap tested and found it was releasing at about 6 PSI instead of the design 15 PSI. This is a simple test. Remove the cap and take it to your NAPA or Auto Parts store and ask them to test it. If it tests good, carry on looking.
Word of experience, if the cap does test bad and you replace it, make sure to test the new one. I went through 3 before I found a good one.