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Old 01-04-2019, 09:12 PM   #29
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As I posted on this in 9 of 17 we need to know what coolant we have in our diesel engines and then follow that guide lines to keep that coolant doing it's job. The harder of the two is if you don't know what coolant you have is to find that out. To important to neglect this important part of diesel engine service.
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Old 01-05-2019, 11:47 AM   #30
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Thanks !
Just called Cummins Southern Plains for a flush and fill and he guessed it would be about $1200 - $1500 dollars ....

Speedco just said $109 per hour and couldn't tell me how long, maybe 6 hours.... plus coolant, etc...



Anyone want to make some money here in Fort Worth, Tx ?!?
There are a couple of great thread on the forum of members exchanging their own antifreeze. If the system is clean it can be simple as it isn't critical to get all the old out. Dirty, then several flushes and that is where the time comes in. Obviously you want as much as you can get drained however the antifreeze is compatible so a gallon or so left isn't going to be a big deal in a 12 gallon or so system. Most of the shops you take it to are not going to go the extra mile like the guys on the forum did. Again, dirty system another ball game. The Cummins literature documents the compatibility for those wanting to see for themselves. Shops often go by color and unfortunately there are three or more colors out there and several variations as well. It is best to have your own jug after you know which antifreeze you have.
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Old 01-19-2019, 02:28 PM   #31
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I ordered a sample kit today so I can get the antifreeze analyzed before flushing and refilling. The fluid looks new. I donít think any further damage will happen if I just wait and get it checked. Kind of scary, though. Will be watching this close in the future.
Test results came back fine. On the form it asked what kind of antifreeze was in the system. I left it blank because I donít know. On the the report it again asked what kind it had. I wonder how big of an issue that is?
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Old 01-19-2019, 11:38 PM   #32
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Test results came back fine. On the form it asked what kind of antifreeze was in the system. I left it blank because I donít know. On the the report it again asked what kind it had. I wonder how big of an issue that is?
Not all antifreeze is compatible with other brands or formulations/types. It is important. Color is almost meaningless these days.
references:

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literat...9;s/05-2R1.pdf
https://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-...rs-of-coolant/
https://www.solventsandpetroleum.com...lity-chart.pdf
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Old 01-20-2019, 07:43 AM   #33
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Not all antifreeze is compatible with other brands or formulations/types. It is important. Color is almost meaningless these days.
references:

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literat...9;s/05-2R1.pdf
https://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-...rs-of-coolant/
https://www.solventsandpetroleum.com...lity-chart.pdf
The antifreeze can be mixed and wont be an issue as to cooling and preventing freezing. The problem is your own specific engine may need certain inhibitors to protect certain components. Adding the correct antifreeze per your vehicles specifications is the best way to go. If you have concerns then it is best to flush and recharge with the recommended antifreeze for you specific engine and coolant system.

It really got complicated with the three basic types all coming in the same colors by different vendors. OAT or the hybrid OAT is the BAT.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:24 AM   #34
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Do any of you have an idea what the coolant capacity is for a side radiator with an ISL? We have a 2 year old radiator but i want to get ahead on this one. Thanks, barryb.
It depends on a lot of things like do you have an aquahot or similar heating system? I used 11 gallons on my pretty basic Monaco Dynasty with ISC which is very similar to your ISL engine. I've heard of others taking much more.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:27 AM   #35
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There are a couple of great thread on the forum of members exchanging their own antifreeze. If the system is clean it can be simple as it isn't critical to get all the old out. Dirty, then several flushes and that is where the time comes in. Obviously you want as much as you can get drained however the antifreeze is compatible so a gallon or so left isn't going to be a big deal in a 12 gallon or so system. Most of the shops you take it to are not going to go the extra mile like the guys on the forum did. Again, dirty system another ball game. The Cummins literature documents the compatibility for those wanting to see for themselves. Shops often go by color and unfortunately there are three or more colors out there and several variations as well. It is best to have your own jug after you know which antifreeze you have.
Doing it yourself is pretty easy on the ISC or ISL because it has that coolant loop to the coolant tank that expels air in the system. The biggest issue is getting rid of a lot of contaminated water and coolant. Luckily, my local quick lube place lets us dump antifreeze in his recycle tanks for free.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:00 PM   #36
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What type?

I must be really dense. I have read this entire thread twice and no where does it say how you find out what type of antifreeze you have in your engine. You can get it tested (JPlabs?) but they want to know what kind you have. I DONT KNOW. The test strips don't tell you, do they. Please help my ignorance.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:17 PM   #37
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Then you need to start fresh with a complete coolant drain and replacement. Need to contact chassis maker to find out what coolant you need to use. Unless the previous owner know what coolant is in engine you shouldn't gamble.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:20 PM   #38
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After looking at your coach being a Bounder then you would most likely have either a 5.9 or 6.7 B series engine which doesn't need to be tested for SCA/DCA.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:00 AM   #39
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I must be really dense. I have read this entire thread twice and no where does it say how you find out what type of antifreeze you have in your engine. You can get it tested (JPlabs?) but they want to know what kind you have. I DONT KNOW. The test strips don't tell you, do they. Please help my ignorance.
Test strips will show if you have SCA's or not. OAT and HOAT are the current most used types out there and in almost all new vehicles since about 2011 with some making changes even in during a model production run.

Nitrite and molybdate are the most common SCA's with some having more polymer to tolerate harder water instead of having to use distilled.

If you have SCA's then you need to stay with that type and keep it in range or exchange and go to a newer type. Most of the new ones are yellow or gold and turn pink when installed. There is a purple out there as well. It is very confusing now with all the options. I have 4 types in the garage for my vehicles.

To me the best way if you don't know is to check your coolant system specs and research. If OAT is OK then that is the way to go.

For some of my older stuff we just added Peak Final Charge and let it go and not a single problem.

Having a SCA canister will change what you do as will a system that needs a higher pH. All this has to come from research for each specific system.
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:48 PM   #40
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Remember to use distilled water when doing final fill. Also remember now almost all anti-freeze is pre-mixed which means you don't add water but just direct fill. This proper coolant is important for all Cummins engines except B series.
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:50 AM   #41
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Jug's of concentrate are still readily available where I am.
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Old 02-02-2019, 08:33 PM   #42
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In reading this and other postings about antifreeze, I still am confused on just what should be used in the 6.7B series. Can someone enlighten me?
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