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Old 09-20-2014, 09:16 PM   #169
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Update:

Well, it's been a while since I've posted here about the engine issues we had with our dusted B5.9 Cummins, so I thought I would provide a bit of an update.

I've had all summer to think about which route to take, and to be honest, I still don't know exactly what I'm going to do with this thing. I do know this, however... I'm going to pass on trying to do an in-frame rebuild... and I'm going to attempt to pull the engine next weekend. Whether it's to pull it to rebuild it, or pull it to part the RV out, I haven't decided.

I want very badly to restore this old RV with a fresh engine and new siding (oh ya, did I mention I have all the siding ripped off of one side?). I'm certain I could get another 10 years out of it if I do this... but of course $$ is going to be an issue. Isn't it always... If I estimate it's going to cost $8k to do all this... then I better figure it will probably cost $10k... and I just don't know if spending that kind of money is a wise decision for my family right now... or even over the next few years... I just dunno...

So... for now, it doesn't hurt to pull the engine. It will cost me nothing except a saturday's worth of my time. If we end up parting the old girl out, then I'll just be one more step towards that end... if we keep it, then I'll be able to get the engine to a machine shop for a proper rebuild. It's a win-win.

All for now. I'll post pics of the removal when it happens... hopefully next weekend. Wish me luck... or better yet... say a prayer...

-cheers
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:09 AM   #170
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If it helps I have about 3k in my rebuild of my L10. That includes the kit, gaskets,new water pump,new cam, new small end rod bushing, new cam, rebuilt fuel pump, reman injectors, and reman air compressor. Grant I doing all the wofk myself excepf pressurse testing and milling head, polishing. crank, and pressing and honeing small end bushings and preloading cylinders
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:45 AM   #171
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If it helps I have about 3k in my rebuild of my L10. That includes the kit, gaskets,new water pump,new cam, new small end rod bushing, new cam, rebuilt fuel pump, reman injectors, and reman air compressor. Grant I doing all the wofk myself excepf pressurse testing and milling head, polishing. crank, and pressing and honeing small end bushings and preloading cylinders
I was thinking $3k for this rebuild too... $1k for rebuild kit... $1k for machining including reboring, deck the block if necessary, planing the head, and new valve guides. $500 for new turbo cartridge... and another $500 for just incidentals.

If I rebuild, I'll do all the assembly myself too.

-cheers
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Old 09-21-2014, 05:13 PM   #172
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Whatever you decide will work for you.

Not to be nosy but what up with the siding??
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Old 09-21-2014, 07:19 PM   #173
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Have you looked for a used engine in the junk yards around you? you might be able to upgrade if you could find a good doner truck.
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:38 AM   #174
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Have you looked for a used engine in the junk yards around you? you might be able to upgrade if you could find a good doner truck.
Bill
Yeah... I've thought of that, but in the end I think if we do go for putting this old girl back together, i'm probably better off to just rebuild this one. If I buy one out of a junkyard, I'll still pay $2k or better... and you don't really know what your getting unless you tear it apart. There's a really good diesel engine rebuilder locally here that doesn't charge an arm and a leg for machine work... I think that's my best bet.

-cheers
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:49 AM   #175
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Originally Posted by DieselTech39 View Post
Whatever you decide will work for you.

Not to be nosy but what up with the siding??
Here's a link to some pics of the siding project I've been thinking about HERE

What happened is that after the engine blew, I didn't know if I wanted to put any money into the engine given how bad of shape the siding was in. It was corroding from the inside out, leaving holes that were growing at an alarming rate. I tried fixing the holes, but it only took a few days for the new paint to bubble up from the corrosion pushing back through. One thing led to another, and I ended up removing all the siding on the passenger side to find that 85% of the luan the aluminum siding was glued to was all wet and rotten.

My plan now is to just get the engine out and not think too far ahead. Before I would rebuild the engine, I would want to test my theories on rebuilding the exterior panels to see if I can get good results. The aluminum would come in rolls 4' wide by 32' long. I would need 4 of them... at $500 each... but I would start by just buying one, and replacing the top panel on the passenger side. This is a reasonable amount of money to risk on the project, and If this would turn out good, then I'd go ahead and get the engine rebuilt, to get the RV mobile again, and then finish the rest of the siding as I can afford it. If the first panel turns out terrible, then the whole thing gets parted out and we're done.

At any rate, that's where we're at. We'll see what comes of it all. Like I said, for now... we're just going to get the engine out. One step at a time.

-cheers
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:31 AM   #176
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Thanks for the reply. That is a project for sure. Best of luck in your decision and repairs.
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:27 PM   #177
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Tonight I got the RV blocked up as high as I could off of the floor. The roof is touching the garage truss, which gives me about 32" clearance under the rear storage compartment door to get the engine out... and hopefully back in someday. Should be more than enough room, especially with the oil pan and head already off the engine. If we put it back in, I suspect we'll have to leave the oil pan off to have enough room.

It was a bit of work to get the parking brake released in order to position the RV correctly under the trusses to clear the AC and the ladder. The brake is basically just a big brake drum on the end of the transmission output shaft. The lever that operates the brake is connected to a monster cable that is in turn connected to what is basically a big "spring in a can." When the engine is running, the hydraulic pump compresses the spring and relieves tension on the cable, thus releasing the parking brake... if you lose hydraulic pressure, (or if you pull the parking brake knob to "on") the hydraulics release the spring and the brake is engaged. Let me tell you... this spring produces a severe amount of tension... but I managed to get the lever moved with a floor jack, and then hold it in place with a ratchet strap. I then just pulled the rv backwards into position with the Jeep.

You can see I stacked a pile of blocking up underneath the cross member that runs behind the rear wheels... I would never trust crawling underneath the RV for any length of time just using the leveling jacks as support. All it would take is a blown hydraulic line and... squish... I also put some blocking under the tires... just as an added measure...

Don't pay much attention to the deplorable mess in the garage. That's the goal for tomorrow night... to get cleaned up and organized for Saturday's engine pulling party, and to get plastic put down on the floor inside the rv.

All for now. I know the pics aren't much... but this is pretty much what it looks like...

-cheers



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Old 09-23-2014, 03:32 PM   #178
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WOW,
This looks like a really worth while project that will bring you much satisfaction in the end if you are able to stick with it. I'm sure there are a lot of us reading this that wish we could be there to help you out in person and sure in the finished product.

I see you got a great view of what is and what is not inside your walls, I'm hopping that you can upgrade the insulation before you cover that all up. I'm not a big fan of the fiberglass in mobile applications, I've used the spray in from the can with great success. Its just takes a little experimenting to learn how to get the finish you want.

Wishing you the best of luck, and please continue to keep us up to date.

DTW
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:42 AM   #179
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Thanks for all the encouragement... it really helps. I think if we can muster up the cash to restore this beast we will... God willing of course.

I was thinking of combining both the new exterior siding thread, and the "where'd my oil go" thread into just one new rebuild thread.

What do you think?

-cheers


-cheers
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:27 PM   #180
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Motor Is Out

Well, we got the motor out today. Started around 8am... done by 2:30. Of course, all the accessories were already off the engine before we started to day.

The only trouble we had was 1 broken bolt on the starter... other than that, it went pretty smooth. We had to lift the motor up and shift it towards the radiator first, and tip it forward, so we could get the enormous bell housing off. Once the bell housing was off, it was still a tight fit to get it down to the floor, but we managed.

Sooo... now, I have to figure out if I want to tackle fixing the siding or not. If not, I'll just start parting this thing out. If we do, then with a little more disassembly, the motor will be ready for the machine shop.

A few pics from today:
-note, we had to go 3 cement blocks high to get the bell housing up high enough to get to the bolts. This pic only shows 2 high.

-cheers












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Old 09-27-2014, 06:28 PM   #181
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GOOD JOB.
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Old 09-27-2014, 10:33 PM   #182
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That's what I call determination. Thanks for the play by play. Like I said before, there are some of us watching this project wishing we could join in.

Great job Sir
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