Urgent: Where's my oil going?

[Piker]

Originally Posted by Piker

Report also said that the high potassium and sodium could be antifreeze... but I think it's probably road salt. I think this tear in the boot was present during our winter trip to Florida during Christmas.

This is such a bummer.

-cheers... ?

I corresponded with Blackstone a bit today... they said that it was not likely that the sodium and potassium were from road salt given the high quantity present in the oil. It's definitely antifreeze.

This means that not only is the engine dusted... and has a broken oil ring... but also might have a blown head gasket... or worse.

I'm hoping not worse. I may start to tear into things this weekend if I can muster up the courage. I really don't want to do this.

-cheers

[Piker]

I think I might be ready to cut my losses. Tearing this down would not have been an issue for me 15-20 years ago, but right now I just don't think I can put any more time or money into this. If I rebuild the motor, it will take a minimum of another $1500 and who knows how many weeks of my time, and I'll still have a 20 year old rv with rough looking exterior and who knows what else on the verge of breaking... probably 2 20 year old air conditioners and a 20 year old fridge will be next.

Any ideas what the best way would be to limit the financial damage? Try to sell with full disclosure of the problems, or part it out? I guess the only thing of any value is the tires, furniture, and generator... and the generator I could use here for backup at the house. At this point it probably doesn't matter I guess. I kind of just want to be free of it.

-cheers

[MnTom]

Well, sorry that you are giving up on it, but I understand. If you have the place to store it you can part it out and probably recoup quite a bit of your money, or you could try to sell it complete, but that may be a bit tough to do.

[Coma]

Originally Posted by Piker

I think I might be ready to cut my losses. Tearing this down would not have been an issue for me 15-20 years ago, but right now I just don't think I can put any more time or money into this. If I rebuild the motor, it will take a minimum of another $1500 and who knows how many weeks of my time, and I'll still have a 20 year old rv with rough looking exterior and who knows what else on the verge of breaking... probably 2 20 year old air conditioners and a 20 year old fridge will be next.

Any ideas what the best way would be to limit the financial damage? Try to sell with full disclosure of the problems, or part it out? I guess the only thing of any value is the tires, furniture, and generator... and the generator I could use here for backup at the house. At this point it probably doesn't matter I guess. I kind of just want to be free of it.

-cheers

The fridge, if working, is worth $ even used. Same with Flat Screens. Engine will make a core. Keep the Genny, part what will sell and have the rest hauled to Salvage. Easy.

[Mekanic]

Originally Posted by Piker

I think I might be ready to cut my losses. Tearing this down would not have been an issue for me 15-20 years ago, but right now I just don't think I can put any more time or money into this. If I rebuild the motor, it will take a minimum of another $1500 and who knows how many weeks of my time, and I'll still have a 20 year old rv with rough looking exterior and who knows what else on the verge of breaking... probably 2 20 year old air conditioners and a 20 year old fridge will be next.

Any ideas what the best way would be to limit the financial damage? Try to sell with full disclosure of the problems, or part it out? ........

I'd fix it, but not fix whats not Broke. If it really bother you the amount of oil your loosing , Go after cylinder # 1 and of course look close at your head gasket,... but if the #2 though #6 look OK leave em be.
And Inspect the bottom end bearings If they are OK Why do anything more than lube em back up and bolt them back in?
I Think the way to save money it to only spend it on what is truly necessary

[Piker]

I just want to thank everyone for their input on this... I'm going through the whole gamut of emotions, thoughts, and ideas on this, and all I can do is work through these one at a time.

This morning I went out to see if I could start pulling things apart, and I just wanted to cry. I walked away from it and spent most of the day in a stupor brooding about all the what-ifs. I had decided I just wanted out. Later, however, my wife, who has been extremely supportive of me in this, kind of talked me down from the proverbial ledge that I was on. She agreed to help me with this project by just keeping me company while I work on it. So tonight, my wife and I along with our 2 girls went out and started wrenching. Ok, so they didn't really do any wrenching, and mostly just sat up front and watched movies and ate snacks... but it made the whole thing at least bearable to me. Once in a while one of them would come back and act amazed at what dad can do... and I realized that here we are, making more memories they will never forget. So it's good.

Ok then... all that aside, I made some headway tonight. I got quite a bit of stuff unbolted and removed from the engine. I'm guessing that if I work on it much tomorrow I'll be able to get the head off in an hour or so.

Also, I'm pretty sure I found out for sure which cylinder is using all the oil... when I pulled the exhaust manifold off, #3 exhaust port was just completely wet with oil. It does not appear to have any scoring at the bottom of the bore, so I'm not sure what to think. Maybe all the oil usage is just head gasket? That would be cool. I guess I'll know when I get the head off.

I also noticed some oil on the side of the oil cooler... not dripping... just wet. That could have come from anywhere though... Also thinking about pulling the timing cover to check the killer dowel pin while I've got everything apart...

Also wondering how to get the dust out of the intercooler... probably have to take it out. Big job... have to pull radiator to do that, and it's all got to come out through the bottom of the RV.

Oh, and I'm also wondering if there's a better way to set up the air cleaner. The current setup is a joke. Part of the intake assembly runs through an area of the framing that prevents you from being able to inspect it for leaks... this includes the boot on the air cleaner itself. Blah... have to do something different with that cause I don't want to chance dusting this again if I do get this all back up and running.

All for now... wish me luck. Or better yet, say a prayer.

-cheers

[GA Navigator]

It's not a big job. It's a few small jobs.

[Coma]

Prayer sent.

This might turn out to be more labor than parts. BTW most of these MH's seem to have fouled up filter/intake arrangements. There are several threads and recommendations on better ways.

You are still making memories……says it all to me.

Remember, adversity is unavoidable……misery, however, is a choice.

[ahicks]

2 thoughts,
First, agree with Navigator regarding the small jobs logic.
Second, I'm of the notion the CAC/Rad. can be cleaned in place. Mine was really grodey when I started on it, and I managed quite well. Another lesson in persistence paying off.

Best of luck!

Oh, and Mekanic's thought regarding not fixing what's not broke? Agree there too. Get in, find the problem, fix it, and get out!
-Al

[MnTom]

Piker, maybe, just maybe you will be lucky and just have a broken oil ring in #3. I am wondering about the anitfreeze in the oil though. Possible head gasket, but not real likely. I was thinking maybe oil cooler too, but the oil pressure is greater than the coolant, so that kind of rules that out. I would pull the head and look things over real good to see if you can find the antifreeze problem. There is no other place that the antifreeze can get into the oil that I can think of. Also, be sure that you put a Cummins head gasket back in and DO NOT under any circumstances put an MLS (multi-layered steel) gasket in. I learned that one the hard way on my 5.9.

[Piker]

Cylinder #3 is shot. No way just honing it will help.

I pulled the head, and the scores are probably .010 deep or more in cylinder 3. All the other cylinders look fine. Kind of makes sense since #3 is directly across from the intake horn. The dirt and gravel made a bee line for that cylinder.

Not sure what to do now. I see dollar signs and hours of labor starting to add up... Gonna have to leave this sit for a while and think it through.

-cheers...

[MnTom]

Originally Posted by Piker

Cylinder #3 is shot. No way just honing it will help.

I pulled the head, and the scores are probably .010 deep or more in cylinder 3. All the other cylinders look fine. Kind of makes sense since #3 is directly across from the intake horn. The dirt and gravel made a bee line for that cylinder.

Not sure what to do now. I see dollar signs and hours of labor starting to add up... Gonna have to leave this sit for a while and think it through.

-cheers...

It may not be as bad as what you think. Enterprise Engine will sleeve it for $230 according to their website. Enterprise engine offers diesel repair and diesel truck service Obviously there are other costs involved, but there are options for what needs to be done. You could also get that cylinder bored out for an oversized piston too.
What part of the country are you in? I may be able to help find someone close to you that could help.

[Mekanic]

Originally Posted by Piker

Cylinder #3 is shot. No way just honing it will help.

I pulled the head, and the scores are probably .010 deep or more in cylinder 3. All the other cylinders look fine. Kind of makes sense since #3 is directly across from the intake horn. The dirt and gravel made a bee line for that cylinder.

Not sure what to do now. I see dollar signs and hours of labor starting to add up... Gonna have to leave this sit for a while and think it through.

-cheers...

I've rebuilt a few old engines years ago where I didn't get all the scores honed out. on a few cylinders.
I sure you oil usage is more from the damaged rings and less from the lines in cylinder. Of course what Really damaged the rings was the Iron metal torn from the cylinder walls. I think you would be very surprised at how well it might run if you just run a hone in it for few mins to make sure a loose particles are gone and stuck a fresh set of rings and maybe a piston in it.

I know there are people that think its not proper.

Remember when a grove get cut into a cylinder the metal in that grove get push hard to the side and at those side it make a ridge that sticks UP above the cylinder wall. The metal that gets pushed up it what kills the rings.
That ridge is what needs honed off flat.

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by Mekanic

I've rebuilt a few old engines years ago where I didn't get all the scores honed out. on a few cylinders.
I sure you oil usage is more from the damaged rings and less from the lines in cylinder. Of course what Really damaged the rings was the Iron metal torn from the cylinder walls. I think you would be very surprised at how well it might run if you just run a hone in it for few mins to make sure a loose particles are gone and stuck a fresh set of rings and maybe a piston in it.

I know there are people that think its not proper.

Remember when a grove get cut into a cylinder the metal in that grove get push hard to the side and at those side it make a ridge that sticks UP above the cylinder wall. The metal that gets pushed up it what kills the rings.
That ridge is what needs honed off flat.

Have been following this thread and would like to offer my 2 bits worth, for what it's worth. I agree with Mekanic that honing might not be the ultimate solution but sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do.
However, I would use a Ball Hone as opposed to a Rigid Hone. All you want to do is knock off the sharp edges and put the Crosshatch back without over sizing the bore any more than it is.
Good Luck, hope everything works out for the best.