VMSpc on a Cummins

[KIX]

I recently purchased the JIB and connecting cables for VMSpc to operate on my laptop. The Cummins ISC 350hp engine is in an '02 Ultimate Advantage. I have been unable to reliably read turbo boost pressures. The turbo pressure reads intermittently 0.0 up to 16.0 but is usually about .4 then it goes to 0. It's pretty obvious that the problem is in data transfer either from the OBD or in the VMS program.
Does anyone have the same engine setup with the VMS? Can you reliably read your turbo boost pressures with the VMS?? Thanks

[Mr_D]

We do and have for many years. I have no problem reading the boost although it's wrong now that I have a Banks kit on it. The VMSpc reads a max of 25 but the Banks gauge shows 35 psi.

[Harry B]

Kix,

If you have the USB version of the jib, there were some issues with intermittent readings. Inside the jib there is a jumper marked 120 ohms that is supposed to be installed to have it work correctly.

[Mr_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry B Kix, If you have the USB version of the jib, there were some issues with intermittent readings. Inside the jib there is a jumper marked 120 ohms that is supposed to be installed to have it work correctly.

Could be, I have the older version and it requires an adapter.

[Triker56]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D We do and have for many years. I have no problem reading the boost although it's wrong now that I have a Banks kit on it. The VMSpc reads a max of 25 but the Banks gauge shows 35 psi.

Why not go into Advance...Engine Type...and Pick the Banks ISC (Ppk HP) engine. Should give you more PSI.

Or go to "Parameter" and edit Turbo Boost Pressure by raising the max and red line up more to like 37.

[KIX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry B Kix, If you have the USB version of the jib, there were some issues with intermittent readings. Inside the jib there is a jumper marked 120 ohms that is supposed to be installed to have it work correctly.

Thanks Harry B

and

Mr D

[KIX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry B Kix, If you have the USB version of the jib, there were some issues with intermittent readings. Inside the jib there is a jumper marked 120 ohms that is supposed to be installed to have it work correctly.

Harry B........I called the tech I'm working with at Silverleaf and told him about the 120 ohm jumper you mentioned. He said that they have been "jumping" the 120 ohm connection on all the JIB's for the past year or more. Since I bought mine in the past month he doesn't think this is the problem with my set up. Thanks for mentioning this.

Any more suggestions out there???

[KIX]

harry B, You were correct. Silverleaf asked me to open the JIB box and see if the "jumper" was installed on the 120ohm pins..........the jumper was there but only on one pin and not jumping to the second pin. I connected it to both pins and now at least the reading is not going to 0 psi. It stays steady at .1 to 1.0 psi. this is operating the engine in neutral and quick revs or at high idle. Should the turbo be spooling up during this scenario? Or, do I need to drive the coach to make a determination?
At high idle I now notice a "whistle" near the engine side radiator .... I don't recall hearing this before.........

[Dr4Film]

KIX,

Just read through all of these posts and wanted to offer my observations.

I purchased my USB SilverLeaf package last August while I was in Fairbanks Alaska. Bought a 10 inch Dell from Sam's Club and have it mounted with a RAM mount. I set it all up before departing back to the lower 48. My Turbo Boost has always read correctly and not intermittently. I own a 2002 Cummins 350HP.

I love the VMSpc and will not drive without it. There are features of the VMSpc that unfortunately my engine does not support such as Coolant Level & Oil Temp so I have learned to live without those.

Next, I don't believe you will get any boost readings by just revving the engine. You will need to drive on some grades to see what the boost will do or activate your exhaust brake, that should increase your boost.

The High Whistle sound near your side radiator my be a leaky exhaust manifold gasket. Or it could be something else. It's just a guess on my part. If it's the gasket, you should be able to see black residue between the manifold and the engine block. Good Luck!

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[KIX]

Thanks Richard, My project for tomorrow is to remove the engine hatch covers and see what I can see.
I'm told that a leak in the turbo piping or a CAC piping leak will also cause the whistling. We'll see what i can see tomorrow.
I live in FL so grades are hard to find. But, if revving the engine in neutral won't spool the turbo then accelerating to highway speed should spool it up.....right?

[Mr_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triker56 Why not go into Advance...Engine Type...and Pick the Banks ISC (Ppk HP) engine. Should give you more PSI. Or go to "Parameter" and edit Turbo Boost Pressure by raising the max and red line up more to like 37.

Thanks, but I did that three years or so ago! Plus I contacted their support line and they couldn't suggest an answer.

[Dr4Film]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KIX I live in FL so grades are hard to find. But, if revving the engine in neutral won't spool the turbo then accelerating to highway speed should spool it up.....right?

I believe it would especially if you were to really tromp on the pedal versus a slow gradual increase in speed.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[JimM68]

At least in my isc monaco, yes, normal level road foot on the floor accelerations will put the boost guage at 35 psi, and keep it there until I lift my foot.

[KIX]

I removed the inlet elbow from the turbo and the blade spins easily and there is no detectable wobble in the shaft. The waste gate is free to move. The exhaust brake is in the off position. New air filter and fuel filter. I can detect no leaks in the intake or exhaust piping/hoses. I checked for leaks using a stethoscope since it is otherwise too loud for me to distinguish a leak while the engine is running. And there is no sign of a leak.
Taking a break right now but I'm going to go back and "re-look" for leaks. Anyone got any other suggestions?????