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Old 05-20-2017, 08:20 AM   #15
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First pic is for fan and power steering reseviour
2nd is for motor oil
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:29 AM   #16
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And that I would assume that is the purge bolt that Ray was referring to... unscrewed it and let about a swallow or two come out... also squeezed the outlet tube and heard it make it back to reseviour
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:52 AM   #17
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So best I can tell one of these is the culprit. I am thinking of starting on the radiator side and work my way back?
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:59 AM   #18
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The air will purge its way out on it own after several heat ups and cool downs........it will be pushed to the over flow tank as the level goes up and down from hot to cool down, you can see this change from to cold level to the operating hot level in the over flow tank.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:42 AM   #19
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So ? This thing had two thermostats in it. The issue I am having is the fan is not coming on when the motor gets warm. Above 210.

So my question is how or what controls the fan override to make it run at low rpm like an idle.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:44 AM   #20
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Bc the motor cools when the rpms up but will not cool itself at an idle. So I am assuming my problem is the relay or whatever tells the fan to spin without rpm.
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:22 AM   #21
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I am venture to guess that your year Coach and cooling system, it has a direct drive hydraulic fan drive, driven off of the hydraulic pump on the engine...........and rpm's of the fan changes with engine rpm's.......this is what I have on my 2000 Spartan MM Chassis. If you take a look at the fan and how it is mounted, there will be 2 hose's going in and out of the fan drive.......does your's look like that?
Also, that year Cummins should run at 180 deg.
Is that what one of the thermostat's was? or both of them?
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:35 AM   #22
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That is exactly what my fan looks like in and out on each opposing sides.
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:36 AM   #23
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The new thermostats are 181 degrees
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:37 AM   #24
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I am struggling to figure out how it would cool it any other way than rpm based
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:46 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamsta View Post
I am struggling to figure out how it would cool it any other way than rpm based
Simply, it does not........I am going to venture to make a guess again after seeing a lot of photo's of radiator's and charge air coolers that were removed for proper cleaning.......and they were surprised what they saw even after repeated cleaning's while in place........
Here is a good thread with photo's to read though......
Radiator and CAC cleaning


Junk gets trapped in between them and washing from the outside's just don't remove it.........Mine was the same way when I replaced my radiator years back, I could not believe the junk on the radiator and charge air cooler.........and that was after repeated cleanings.
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:09 AM   #26
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The fan doesn't know wither the engine is idle or wide open. The fan hydraulic flow switch is related to Engine temp.
Are you sure coolant is circulating good?
Things to check:

Do both upper and lower radiator hoses feel about the same temp

If you take a garden hose and spray water into radiator from outside will it cool down

The coolant expansion tank is mounted High enough to have bleed any air from system by now, so stratch that.

If one radiator hose feels cooler, then you may have thermostat and or coolant pump issue

If it cools down with garden hose, then look for hyd fan controller. And or no air flow through radiator/CAC

Since you say you can raise engine speed and it will cool down leads me to think it's a coolant flow issue, could be t-storm, water pump belt/tensioner slip, or water pump.

And all this is also dependent of your radiator/CAC being clean.

Of course I'm not there and only making my WAG based on your post, lol
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:23 PM   #27
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Just ran it for about 30 minutes and then took it for a drive...
Initial idle and warm up engine rose to temp of 181 and then maintained for 10 or 15 minutes.
Took it out for drive and again at stop lights and long idle (getting it back into drives) it wanted to raise temps to 200-210 before I fed it some rpms and cooked back down. 1000 rpm for 35 seconds got it back cool

Temps (infered gun on plastic joints)
Input to radiator 156 degrees
Output was same at idle speed.
Temp of dash gauge was 210.
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:41 PM   #28
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Did a test on the coolant and everything checked out color wise on the little 45 second test.... not best but all I could get right now...
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