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Old 06-10-2017, 06:41 PM   #57
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So took it out to get diesel and well on the way home sitting at a stop light... engine wanted to warm up.
On my way there engine hit 180 degrees or so and maintained for a few minutes the worked it's way up to 200 degrees and then cooled back down to 180 pretty much within 5 or so seconds...
Maintained temp while running at 190 or so.
Coming home was fine. Highway at 1700 rpm or so.
Got into stoplights and started to raise.
Got home and let idle and went to check fan and it was not spinning at all and temps where 210. Tried to spin it and it span freely.
Gave some rpm and it started to spin.

Cut it off....

Pulled old priority valve and off shelf and counted threads then set the one in the coach to same spot..

My next thought is that when I shot metal through out the lines with the blown pump it got into the fan drive pump. I took it apart which is pictured and there was damage to the teeth and to the inside casing. I rounded the rough spots and smoothed out the rough spots on the casing. The bearings and all where fine and it spun freely. But my concern now is that since there is damage to the casing and it is not "sealed" for flow then it could be letting enough fluid "sneak" through the "gaps" without spinning the turbine style gears...

Any thoughts or another opinion....
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Old 06-11-2017, 03:01 PM   #58
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The block that directs the fluid and pressure could be clogged up also
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:17 AM   #59
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Have you replaced priority valves for the hydraulic fan? spartan sells them. Get yourself a non-contact tachometer so that you can get a accurate fan speed.
Local Cummins shop says fan should run about the same rpms as engine. What does trans guage read when it starts getting hot? does it also start to climb? At 1200-1300 rpms the fan will suck a piece of paper to the side of the coach. When the engine is running hot does your temp gun verify this?, or just the guage on the dash?
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:37 PM   #60
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Yep I have replaced the priority valve and also the other one on the top side on the priority valve... the temp gun was reading very similar to the gauge on the dash... when it was getting hot (212 or so) the temp gun was reading a few.degrees cooler but that is true because it was a inferred gun reading on the plastic tubing above the thermostats...
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:39 PM   #61
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I spray painted one of the fins on the fan and took a video of it running at idle (now 610 it was at 510 originally) and the fan was spinning at or around 320 times per minute....
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:40 PM   #62
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I slowed down the video to count the revolutions.....
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Old 07-08-2017, 04:42 PM   #63
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I just wanted to say thank you to all the ones that helped me out with this issue it saved me thousands... You all are very generous and kind to help....
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:42 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamsta View Post
I just wanted to say thank you to all the ones that helped me out with this issue it saved me thousands... You all are very generous and kind to help....
Maybe I missed it, what did the problem end up being and what was the fix?
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:49 PM   #65
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What I did was....
Clean the radiator again with coil cleaner and really got in there and cleaned
I pulled both thermostats and placed them in a pot of water and boiled to check activity... Both opened and closed as they should.
I changed the all the radiator hoses with new ones
I replaced all 12 gallons of radiator fluid and added the special stuff dca? Chemical
I replaced the radiator cap
I replaced the seals for the thermostat and output from the engine

I then moved to the hydraulic system that controls the power steering...
Changed all the fluids
Changed the filter in the reseviour
I adjusted the pressure regulator valve and checked the priority valve
Checked all fittings and pressure washed gently the entire engine and all underneith the motor to make sure I had no more issues and all my fitting were snug.

So what exactly fixed not sure but that is what fixed it... :-)
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:51 PM   #66
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Also increased rpm from 520 to around 620.... To help fan spin a little faster at idle....
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:46 AM   #67
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Quote:
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Also increased rpm from 520 to around 620.... To help fan spin a little faster at idle....
Thanks for getting back to us about the problem and the fix, that might just help someone in the future.
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Old 07-13-2017, 04:00 AM   #68
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Did you test the new thermostats before installing them? I always drop mine in a pot of boiling water.

Was there one under that large hose on top of the front of the engine?
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Old 07-23-2017, 04:51 PM   #69
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There was actually two. And I did not test the new thermos... Should have... So just got home from a trip to Jordan lake about 60 miles from me... Hot 97 degree day in NC was driving down and was not really having a water temp issue. She was getting around 210-215 degrees on the way down there but no real issues... Got parked and went to it...

On the return trip was a different story... Made it probably 20 minutes home and coolant temp rose to 220+ so I would pull over and shift to nuetral rev motor to 1800 tom and 2 minute's later cooled back down to below 200 degrees... Would drive another 15 or so miles and would warm up again enough for alarm to start to sputter.... Limped it home and parked. And pulled tarp undernieth motor and came back few hours later to find this transmission bleeding..

Will get a few temp pictures up here shortly but at the beginning in the trip when trans temp was cool I could see the water temp gauge hit 201 or so and drop quickly and maintain but once the trans got up to 250 or so degrees it could not cool the water temp... Could just be me guessing any thoughts... Def. Need to do tsome transmission work with the leak... Never done transmission fluid change with filter...
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Old 07-23-2017, 06:17 PM   #70
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Transmission numbers...
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