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Old 12-18-2018, 12:08 PM   #127
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The OP didn’t say he had low power just concerns with water leaks didn’t he?
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:29 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaspumpcity View Post
The OP didnít say he had low power just concerns with water leaks didnít he?
No , just wanted to go over things .
Change fan bearing to greasable . Check & change belts . Inspect water pump / change it . Clean radiator & CAC . Check & adjust valve lash . Ect
To establish a base line on Whats up .
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:14 PM   #129
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Boost leaks/ cracker CAC will cause high exhaust temps which can coke the oil in the turbo which can and will cause turbo failures. You should feel the low power but if you continue to run it it'll overheat your turbo
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Old 12-19-2018, 11:47 AM   #130
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Boost leaks/ cracker CAC will cause high exhaust temps which can coke the oil in the turbo which can and will cause turbo failures. You should feel the low power but if you continue to run it it'll overheat your turbo
Thank you Cat . While in there doing other things .
I guess its time to cover all bases !
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Old 12-19-2018, 12:02 PM   #131
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Fan bearing

It looks to me as It was close to it end of life .
So much for sealed bearings in applications like this .
Thankfully Im a curious Cat . Because this , very likely would have ruined a vacation . In , Oh maybe , 10K mile or so .

I still have to remove the outer race from the shaft .
Not happy to a see plastic cage inside either .
Looking very dry to me , wouldnt you say ?
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Old 12-19-2018, 01:15 PM   #132
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It looks to me as It was close to it end of life .
So much for sealed bearings in applications like this .
Thankfully Im a curious Cat . Because this , very likely would have ruined a vacation . In , Oh maybe , 10K mile or so .

I still have to remove the outer race from the shaft .
Not happy to a see plastic cage inside either .
Looking very dry to me , wouldnt you say ?
Mine was also failing I happened to see some smoke come through the radiator as I was doing pretrip inspection. Smoke was from the paint starting to burn on the fan hub. I did some investigating on the failures. Caterpillar used a low temp grease, it wasn't a problem in some applications- big problem in ours due to the high temps in the engine compartment. They also did away with the greaseable bearing because either people didn't grease it or they over greased it blowing out the seal. Lol Good luck.
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Old 12-20-2018, 08:17 AM   #133
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Most M/H air flow into the engine compartment have air ducting well under control like I said lack of gauges can be a nightmare for the average guy! It would be nice to know if O/P retrieved a recent history of events! As for the turbo charger yes you can burn one up but how would you know? I would while your there pull turbo check mounting exhaust flange (prone to flaking) then remove the hot side of turbo and look closely at the inside fin this is what burns up! This will cause high EXhaust temperature why cause it slows down rpm thus low boost pressure. Good preventive maintenance total cost of this is a metal gasket-and rubber o rings or if you have a good eye use a mirror flashlight slowly by hand turn and inspect Inside fins!
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Old 12-20-2018, 04:03 PM   #134
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Ill be doing it all while in there .
Went shoping for a bearing spliter . Got home and went back to my roots of back yard way of doing things . By getting out my dremil , done with no damage what so ever . Yea im cheep , so the spliter is being returned . The outer side of the fan bearing did stand the test of time just a tad better than the rear portion of 41 K miles .
Just thought id post this for others that may have a similar problem .
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:27 PM   #135
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More Parts Pictures

I wanted to post these pictures Im not sure if it was ever mentioned .
But there are 3 bearing retainers to remove from the Tensioner , idler , and V belt adjuster before removing the bearings . Although it does state there is an O RING # 95M-6509 Which I do have

In the pictures of the two bearing retainers . Although similar in looks they are different .

Take note to the seal that came out of the original bearing set up .
I see no mention of one in the previously posted PDF .

But it sure seems to me there should be one , in the greasable type bearing also .
Can any one confirm this ? Or I will when I get over to the Catepillar dealer
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Old 01-08-2019, 09:19 PM   #136
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I have been moving slow over the holiday season . I now have all parts except one hose .
In the mean time . I have prepared for the valve adjustment , the valve cover is loose and gasket is on hand .

Side note , FWIW @ 41K mile . Any one thinking of doing this job should consider a new water pump . Although it seemed fine . It dont compare to a new one . New is quiet in comparison and rotates much smoother .

I have been busy driving 80 mile round trip to Ring Power , and just transfering hose barbs , ect and painting items . I will get back to serious work soon , I hope
In the mean time Ill add a few more pictures
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:18 AM   #137
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What is the reason for changing the 100-4026 (bearing retainer - seal plate?). It looks like the new retainer has a "double step". Is this change needed because you are going to a greasable bearing? Did the old retainer have a seal, or is the new retainer required to "add the seal"?
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:48 PM   #138
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What is the reason for changing the 100-4026 (bearing retainer - seal plate?). It looks like the new retainer has a "double step". Is this change needed because you are going to a greasable bearing? Did the old retainer have a seal, or is the new retainer required to "add the seal"?
Thats good to note .
The new bearing retainer is needed because , the old style with a pre lubed bearing does not require an O ring .

Also the greasable bearing # 61-9235 is a few MM wider . Another thing to note is or should I say was my concern .
A seal , I had several people including mechanics , at Ring Power reasearching , pulling bearings out of stock for a seal that was non existing .

I was never given a proper answer . The seal I thought that went into the bearing retainer , actually was part of the pre lubed bearing itself
.
Here is where it gets trickey . I came to this conclusion myself . If you look close, you will see the rollers only from one side there is a slight difference which means the new bearing should be installed in a specific direction . With the rubber side of the seal , thats inside the bearing itself . Faceing the fan . As you can see the back side has a metal ring inside the bearing , without rubbber . If it were installed backwards . I do not think grease would enter the rollers of the bearing . And if it did , it would come out the front side and end up in the fan pulley .
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Old 01-09-2019, 11:00 PM   #139
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journey cat, You have jogged my memory my mechanic did notice the different sides of this bearing and we did install same as you. Joe
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:09 PM   #140
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journey cat, You have jogged my memory my mechanic did notice the different sides of this bearing and we did install same as you. Joe
One would think that it would be marked . Or instructions listed somewhere
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