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Old 04-18-2018, 07:28 PM   #15
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Guys thanks for the moral support.

Today was a parts day, purchased all the bearings needed to replace the bearings in the CAT pulleys and idler pulleys.

I use all cat parts and filters along with Allison filters and Transynd, but the bearing inside the CAT part is just a sealed bearing.

Got a call from the radiator shop guy, who says no leak. I believe it might be a "hot/cold" start of a leak. We will see. I told him clean them up.

Tomorrow I will order all new hoses, S/S hose clamps and the parts necessary to convert the fan hub bearing from a sealed bearing configuration to a grease-able one, with a grease hose attached to make greasing this bearing possible.

The water pump does not leak and has no end play so it stays .... where does it stop. The water pump in a cat diesel should last 200,000 miles shouldn't it??

Couple of pics for your viewing. Thanks, Joe




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Old 04-18-2018, 08:57 PM   #16
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Does the rad come out the bottom?
If you could share the cost of parts, it's something I might start stocking parts for.

Thanks for sharing!
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:34 PM   #17
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Zproud, I sent you a PM Joe
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:09 PM   #18
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Zproud, I sent you a PM Joe
Im curios about the rad removal too did it come out the bottom or back? I would also like the parts cost too.. I just did my coolant and hoses, thermostats, and all fluids. that top hose was a pia. I only have 20k miles but 12 yrs old so hopefully deeper maintenance isn't in my near future but Id like to buy the parts over time. I have everything to pull the genset for deep maintenance so that's my next step. Thanks
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:26 PM   #19
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If it were me and I had all that out of the way I would do the water pump and T-stat. You purchase insurance for the coach and the cost of the WP and T-stat is Cheap insurance, to me at least.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:58 PM   #20
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Guys thanks for the moral support.

Today was a parts day, purchased all the bearings needed to replace the bearings in the CAT pulleys and idler pulleys.

I use all cat parts and filters along with Allison filters and Transynd, but the bearing inside the CAT part is just a sealed bearing.

Got a call from the radiator shop guy, who says no leak. I believe it might be a "hot/cold" start of a leak. We will see. I told him clean them up.

Tomorrow I will order all new hoses, S/S hose clamps and the parts necessary to convert the fan hub bearing from a sealed bearing configuration to a grease-able one, with a grease hose attached to make greasing this bearing possible.

The water pump does not leak and has no end play so it stays .... where does it stop. The water pump in a cat diesel should last 200,000 miles shouldn't it??

Couple of pics for your viewing. Thanks, Joe
Well Sir,
The general consensus about how long a diesel engine SHOULD last or, any parts on it, SHOULD last, is well, like always, a matter of opinion. Without going into long dissertations on experience and all that, I will suffice to say, one of the main reasons I just did the major maintenance on mine was, THE WATER PUMP was shot. And, it gave up the ghost at a mere 42,000 miles. It was the original C-7 water pump. When components such as a water pump are subject to the hard environment like what a rear engine diesel motorhome provides, it's a tough life, to say the least.

We'd all LOVE for all our engine components to go for 200K miles, without a doubt. But, as many of us are showing on here, it just ain't happening. There's another gent on IRV2 that's been contending with a heating problem on his CAT. He recently found out it is a seized water pump. He's in the process of getting an estimate of labor/time/cost/water pump cost as we speak.

So, does mine, and his and who knows how many more, on our era CAT engines suggest to you that, while you're in there, CHANGE THAT PUMP? Well, only you can make that decision. It's kind of a tough decision. If you're in there, with things all apart and, you test the feel of that pump and it feels good, tight, the bearing seems in great shape and no play in the shaft (mine was moving in and out by well over a 1/2"), AND, you've had no heating issues, your engine has been running nice and cool or, at least not hot, then it makes the decision maybe a bit easier.

But, if that bearing feels the least bit worn, gritty, ANY play at all in the shaft, if it were me, I'd yank it out, install a new one and, be done with it and this would provide some serious peace of mind, when you're out in the outback, a zillion miles from nowhere, climbing a 7-8% grade and your engine is doing JUST GREAT.
Scott

P.S. On edit:

You say you're going to order up some "SS" clamps? Well, not sure if you damaged any while removing them but, take a good look at yours. If yours are like mine, in the same chassis and era, your existing clamps should already be stainless steel. All mine were/are. I cleaned all the gunk/miles/years off of all of them and, polished them on a buffer to get a good idea of what condition they were all in. Yeah, it took me about an extra hour to do all of them but, to me, no big deal. They all came out gleaming and shiny and, IN PERFECT shape. So, just in case you wanted to save a few bucks, (yes, all fully stainless steel hose clamps are seriously costly) then clean yours up as they're most likely in great shape too. Why buy stuff that's not needed?
Scott
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:49 AM   #21
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Thanks for all the reply's.

I am not going to change the water pump, not this time. Time will tell.

Just got off the phone with radiator guy he says come and pick it up. clean and tested he said radiator is a solid part. $200.00 Fine with me.

The Radiator and CAC along with the fan shroud came out the back. That's hard to believe when you look at the size of the opening at the rear of the motorhome.

I will put up a parts and cost list I could have saved a couple of bucks cleaning the rad/CAC myself but letting "THE GUY" do it is fine with me.

Before I started this I did alot of research on the subject and was told how hard and difficult this job is.

I actual found the removal of the radiator and CAC quite easy once you know what fasteners to remove along with the help of a younger skinny mechanic

Don't laugh but if I had to replace a ripped belt I think it could be easier to remove the rad/CAC then to try and work it around all that stuff in the way.

Hard to believe it came out the back I was sure the hitch would have to come off and be taken out from under.

Zproud I live 30 miles away from you and sent you my phone # in a PM. If you want to look at this job before I put it all together give me a call.

Now off to my Cat/freightliner parts store and the radiator shop.

Thanks guys Joe
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Old 04-19-2018, 12:19 PM   #22
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Nice talking with you Joe!

Look forward to all the great information and knowledge you have to share.
Just looked at my coach and my rear opening is a lot bigger thank yours.

Will be watching.

Bill
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Old 04-19-2018, 12:30 PM   #23
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Sights,
Glad your operation is going easier than maybe you thought it would. Much of the difficulty of the removal of those two large components is how the total surroundings are designed. In my case, the tightness Winne/Itasca provided made things fairly tough. Gaining access to some of the fasteners wasn't too bad but, others, well, lots of cussing, scraping of hands and knuckles etc.

Different design of, and, application air tools sure helps in my situation. When you don't have ANY room to swing a ratchet, and you barely have room to push the trigger on the air tool, well, that's what's got to be done. And, getting them out the back is also a plus. Glad your radiator is well enough to continue life in its present home, your coach. As stated way earlier, according to my findings when I did mine the first time, the replacement cost for my exact aluminum radiator from Freightliner was right at $1,750.00 and that did not include shipping. I paid $1,200 for a copper brass one. I'd do that again in a heartbeat.

In my recent major maintenance job, all the hoses which, included a couple of small ones that really do not have any significant duty other than they are small, 1/2" i.d. over flow hoses, and, the two CAT regulators, regulator housing gasket and 60" of Silicone 1" heater hose, the total bill was right at $305.00. I then turned around and spent another $134.00 for a new air cleaner and, $40.00 for the air restriction gauge as mine was cloudy and I could not tell what the reading was.

So, yep, every once in a while, one has to open the wallet for these rolling Kleenex boxes. Good luck on the finishing of your job.
Scott
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:04 PM   #24
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My Freightliner /Cat dealer has my parts list and will get back to me.

Ordered all clamps needed, should arrive tomorrow

Picked up radiator and CAC today looks good.

On the lighter side.... earlier post I ask about the residue on my rad near the plastic tank. If it was the start of a leak turns out looks like its over spray of sound deadening material

Thanks, for looking Joe
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:53 PM   #25
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Thanks for taking the time to post all the photos and the steps you have been taking. I have found this very interesting.
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:52 PM   #26
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So are you guys doing anything with the Heui pump while your in there? Either replacing or maybe adding the oil filter?
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Old 04-20-2018, 02:36 PM   #27
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So are you guys doing anything with the Heui pump while your in there? Either replacing or maybe adding the oil filter?
1raptor
Well, I for one didn't and haven't messed with that HEUI pump. At 83,000 miles, when I did my last major maintenance and radiator and CAC pull, that engine is running like a top. And, at least my C-7 only has one oil filter so, If you're referring or, suggesting I (we) add another one, I would feel there's no need for it.
Scott
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Old 04-20-2018, 04:46 PM   #28
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Well, I for one didn't and haven't messed with that HEUI pump. At 83,000 miles, when I did my last major maintenance and radiator and CAC pull, that engine is running like a top. And, at least my C-7 only has one oil filter so, If you're referring or, suggesting I (we) add another one, I would feel there's no need for it.
Scott
No the new heui pump comes with a new inline oil filter that can be added to existing pumps. I think all the new ones come with it. I sure hope I can get those miles on mine before something major. The heui pump is one of my subliminal worries. LOL Thanks
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