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Old 04-25-2018, 07:57 PM   #43
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Today I picked up all the parts needed.
I am planing on putting this back together starting this Monday. and would like to thank all for your support and advice.

Cat, I believe I could do the HEUI pump inspection but may elect to not to do it. No guts.

Cat guys like you and Dustinwaste have knowledge and skills at a level I can't imagine.

I even got a visit from Member "Zproud"

I have attached pic of the new fan bearing (grease-able) housing it has a closed back as opposed to the sealed bearing housing which is open in the back yes the pics are taken on a 40 year old wheelhorse lawn tractor.

Thanks for looking. Joe
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:55 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the sights View Post
Today I picked up all the parts needed.
I am planing on putting this back together starting this Monday. and would like to thank all for your support and advice.

Cat, I believe I could do the HEUI pump inspection but may elect to not to do it. No guts.

Cat guys like you and Dustinwaste have knowledge and skills at a level I can't imagine.

I even got a visit from Member "Zproud"

I have attached pic of the new fan bearing (grease-able) housing it has a closed back as opposed to the sealed bearing housing which is open in the back yes the pics are taken on a 40 year old wheelhorse lawn tractor.

Thanks for looking. Joe
Hey Joe,
You gonna get/make some sort of hose that attaches to the grease/zerk threads so that you can grease that new bearing, from a remote location?
Scott
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Old 04-27-2018, 07:04 PM   #45
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Hello guys, Today was a non dirty day did nothing on my project.

Yesterday I remove the c-clip that holds the waste gate actuator rod to the waste gate arm. The waste gate moves full stroke with absolutely no effort, good thing.

Also pulled 1/4" air hose off waste gate actuator and put on a 3 ft hose I had. applied 30 LBS of air to the actuator it moves so little 1/4 to 3/8 I believe that is correct.

Also the rod even though non-adjustable, seems to have the correct amount of pre-load (youtube video).

lubed the whole thing with PAC brake lube.

Will install new c-clip tomorrow, as its such a small clip a clip removal tool just opens it up to much making it non-reuseable.

FIRE UP yes I have a new 1/8 gresse line for the new bearing if you read this should I lock tight the 4 little allens when I reinstall?

Reassembly of pulleys and water pump, ETC is scheduled for Monday. lets see how far we get Monday I will be taking my time with this.

Thanks, Joe
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:11 PM   #46
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Hello guys, Today was a non dirty day did nothing on my project.

Yesterday I remove the c-clip that holds the waste gate actuator rod to the waste gate arm. The waste gate moves full stroke with absolutely no effort, good thing.

Also pulled 1/4" air hose off waste gate actuator and put on a 3 ft hose I had. applied 30 LBS of air to the actuator it moves so little 1/4 to 3/8 I believe that is correct.

Also the rod even though non-adjustable, seems to have the correct amount of pre-load (youtube video).

lubed the whole thing with PAC brake lube.

Will install new c-clip tomorrow, as its such a small clip a clip removal tool just opens it up to much making it non-reuseable.

FIRE UP yes I have a new 1/8 gresse line for the new bearing if you read this should I lock tight the 4 little allens when I reinstall?

Reassembly of pulleys and water pump, ETC is scheduled for Monday. lets see how far we get Monday I will be taking my time with this.

Thanks, Joe
Joe,
Well, I'll probably catch some flack for this but, no biggie. On mine, no, I didn't use any locktite on those. In fact, I used the opposite. I used anti-seize. I made sure those little Allens were about as tight as I could get them and buttoned everything else up. I used anti-seize on just about every nut and bolt in the reassembly of that entire front part of the engine. Yep, I'll keep an eye on things, just to make sure things are ready to fly apart and hit Mars.
Scott
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:17 PM   #47
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Hello Guys, Not a bad day.... pressed out all bearings on pulleys did not think the water pump idler pulley was a double bearing it is. Well off to the store for 1 more bearing.

The water-pump is alot of work cant ever think about doing it with the rad/CAC still in the motorhome.

One bad we did not see the snap ring on the serpentine belt auto tensioner pulley (first one we did) well a big hyd. press took care of that part....
cannot buy just the pulley oh well nice new strong tension spring.

I did not check the old/new water-pump V-belt. Part was ordered from Ser# of engine got the wrong belt. I got the right one when I returned the water-pump core.

Nickel never-seize on all hardware except the small 4 allens they got Lock-tite

Hope to hear good news from Alphuse the member that has a very stuck bolt.

I believe next time I can get to this is Thursday Thanks for looking. Joe
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:32 PM   #48
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Possible leak

I had a slow drip leak on the same lower hose and thought it was a clamp issue so replaced clamp but slow drip still appeared. Turns out at near the top of left side looking from rear is a plastic fitting screwed into rad that connects hose to the overflow tank for venting when refilling. This fitting had a slow drip that was working its way down to lower hose. I removed and applied Teflon tape to threads and no leaks. I also just removed my rad and cac and plan to replace the plastic fitting with brass unless some one thinks it might cause electrolysis issue with alum tank. This may not be your problem but might help someone. Jim
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:53 PM   #49
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I was exploring the greaseable fan hub bearing and wondered if I could get the cat part numbers from you for the base. Also is the hub and bearing different numbers from stock? My cat dealer said there was not a grease option for the C7. Thanks Jim
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:02 PM   #50
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Highhood, check post #30
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Old 04-30-2018, 09:45 PM   #51
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I was exploring the greaseable fan hub bearing and wondered if I could get the cat part numbers from you for the base. Also is the hub and bearing different numbers from stock? My cat dealer said there was not a grease option for the C7. Thanks Jim
Highhood,
No Sir, CAT eliminated the lubable fan bearing with the insepetion of the C-7. Their reasoning was that, most owners of any version of the 3126, were overlooking the lubing of the fan bearing when it came time for maintenance. So, CAT decided to changed to a permanently lubed bearing. The housing for the bearing looks identical from the front. But, not the back. Anyway, here's another way of picking up the parts you may want for a change-over.
Scott
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:22 AM   #52
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Joe and Scott, thank you for the links to the bearing info. I pressed my bearing off the shaft last week and the rear inner race had been spinning on the shaft. I was very near to a major expensive roadside repair had I not gone ahead with this rad and cac cleaning project. I posted a question earlier today on the Winnebago forum about getting an aftermarket fan blade. Wondered if you guys knew anything about the Source Engineering fan that claims to add HP and improve mpg $550. Jim
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:59 AM   #53
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Joe and Scott, thank you for the links to the bearing info. I pressed my bearing off the shaft last week and the rear inner race had been spinning on the shaft. I was very near to a major expensive roadside repair had I not gone ahead with this rad and cac cleaning project. I posted a question earlier today on the Winnebago forum about getting an aftermarket fan blade. Wondered if you guys knew anything about the Source Engineering fan that claims to add HP and improve mpg $550. Jim
Well,
I really can't answer you on the fan thing. Waaaaay back, when I was getting ready to pull the trigger on an aftermarket muffler, we were at the annual Quartzsite RV event held in late January. Brazels RV Service is normally there and, at that time, they also had some sort of wazoo alternate engine fan for the CAT engines. This may or, may not be the same fan. It's no big deal to change fans when all the big components are out of the way. But, trying to do it WITH them all there, to me, would be pretty much impossible.

They, (Source Engineering) claim around 30+ HP increase. Well, as usual, I take that kind of claim as "I'd have to see it and feel it for myself" before I'd believe that sort of thing. You see, I was "taken in" when I purchased one of those worthless Stainless Steel mufflers. There's all kinds of claims on that one. I can't even remember the name of it right now.

But, without going into a long disertation on how bad it was, suffice to say, all I got out of it was NOISE!

So, will this FAN do what it claims, well, only you can tell.
Scott
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:39 PM   #54
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Hello Guys, Well looking back I missed post # 34.... I thought I read somewhere that that water pump idler pulley had 2 bearings. And member JaminSamin told me to watch the snap-ring. I forgot to look and before you know it........... My bad

Thanks for looking, Joe
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:07 PM   #55
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I can see how a fan design change could reduce noise. But to move cubic feet of air it takes horsepower. Thats why the RV manufacturers use hyd fans or vicious drive fans if you don't need the cooling the fan disengages/ slow downs reducing the horsepower requirements of the fan saving fuel, reducing nose. But to move the same amount of air to get the same cooling but it takes less horsepower not sure about that
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:39 PM   #56
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I can see how a fan design change could reduce noise. But to move cubic feet of air it takes horsepower. Thats why the RV manufacturers use hyd fans or vicious drive fans if you don't need the cooling the fan disengages/ slow downs reducing the horsepower requirements of the fan saving fuel, reducing nose. But to move the same amount of air to get the same cooling but it takes less horsepower not sure about that
You know CAT,
I took a lot of what you're saying into account when I was darn close to installing an air controlled fan clutch on our C-7. Having a fan clutch, while reducing a serious amount of noise, it also reduces the amount of air flowing through a backwards facing engine and radiator which, is not good. But, not only that, it also reduces the amount of air flowing through the CAT too. ALSO NOT GOOD!
So, while the noise would be nice to eliminate or, at the least tone it down some, the residual effects of less air in an environment of HEAT production, was not a good plan so, I scrapped it. So, that leads me to the OPs asking about the new fan that reduces noise too. Like you, I kind-a figure the fan blades on the original fan are kind-a designed for a specific amount of air needed for that kind of an environment and task. Reduce the noise, due to pitch on the blades, you just about HAVE TO REDUCE THE AIR FLOW TOO, don't ya think?

Yeah, the original fan may rob some HP, but, when I'm climbing grades and, it's 100 degrees outside and my motor's holding at 190-200 due to that max air and, the NOISE, well, I for one, can put up with the noise in that situation.
Scott
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