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Old 12-17-2018, 05:36 PM   #113
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Not sure if this was covered yet but while your at it blow out the air to air from the outside then plug or cap off both ends and pressure check the air to air for leaks they usually crack at the end of the seams. They can burn up turbo if a/a is cracked
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Old 12-17-2018, 06:14 PM   #114
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Not sure if this was covered yet but while your at it blow out the air to air from the outside then plug or cap off both ends and pressure check the air to air for leaks they usually crack at the end of the seams. They can burn up turbo if a/a is cracked
Id be glad to , although Im not grasping what your suggesting for me to do ?
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:29 PM   #115
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Your CAC or air to air cooler blowing out the fins to remove bugs so the A/A can cool better. Then I would pressure up the CAC - A/A cooler check for leaks by spraying soapy water at the ends. Clear as mud?
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:33 PM   #116
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This is CAC or air to air
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:56 PM   #117
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Pictures show A/A is particularly plugged! Before you go back together I would run the valve set this surely beats standing on your head from the bedroom!
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:59 PM   #118
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I did a bad job not reading most of your posts sort of looked at pictures only so for give me if you already did all of this.
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:31 PM   #119
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Your forgiven ! Id like to cover all bases while im doing this . Oh yes , If people think they can clean radiators while in the coach . They better listen to seniors here . Because I thought the radiator was dirty . But I got a big suprise when I removed the CAC .
It made me wonder , or should I say. Maybe I was just lucky , climbing mountains across the country . And not once did I see any rise of heat or loss of power .
I took the time to reaserch some and found this .



I will call around and see what I could come up with , short of buying a test kit .
But I did have to get out the preassure washer when it came to cleaning that CAC .

Thank you !
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:49 PM   #120
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For low power this would be first choice but I would go one step farther leave the other side hooked up (factory) and leave the pressure side like it is. Then remove the inlet to the turbo then install a rubber cap (inlet to turbo) on to the turbo. Most new reman turbo comes with this inlet rubber cap. Now you can test all of the clamps,hoses, CAC with soapy water as a preventive measure. If you live close to any truck repairs shop they might loan it to you or at least check your CAC.
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:55 PM   #121
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Hello all, Journey cat is there any side to side play in the old water pump? I think you told us that it is getting replaced anyway but does the old one show signs of wear? Thanks, Joe
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:57 PM   #122
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At the ends of the CAC a tall tail signs are black soot escaping from cracks as a visual look at it before setting up test Equimpment. Motorhomes rear engine get a lot of debris from rear tires throw into radiator and air cleaner assembly.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:23 PM   #123
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Hello all, Journey cat is there any side to side play in the old water pump? I think you told us that it is getting replaced anyway but does the old one show signs of wear? Thanks, Joe
Amazing . No play , ect . All the associated bearings roal smooth
It kinda makes me feel I jumped the gun on the pump.
I will use the new pump , and am still on the fecne with the others as yet.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:45 AM   #124
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For low power this would be first choice but I would go one step farther leave the other side hooked up (factory) and leave the pressure side like it is. Then remove the inlet to the turbo then install a rubber cap (inlet to turbo) on to the turbo. Most new reman turbo comes with this inlet rubber cap. Now you can test all of the clamps,hoses, CAC with soapy water as a preventive measure. If you live close to any truck repairs shop they might loan it to you or at least check your CAC.
That there is an intresting concept . I had to sleep on it .
How would that work out with the valves , similar to what the video showed ?
Although it sounds to me as a better way to check the whole system .
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:20 AM   #125
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Not sure if this was covered yet but while your at it blow out the air to air from the outside then plug or cap off both ends and pressure check the air to air for leaks they usually crack at the end of the seams. They can burn up turbo if a/a is cracked
Well Sir,
Yep, it's been covered, just a few times. And "blowing" it out AINT gonna work here. Journey CAT's unit is/was just as gummed up as ours and I for one, can say it takes quite a bit of vigorous cleaning with chemicals and pressure to get them clean, when they're in this bad of shape. And, as JC states in a later post, yes, cleaning them, both the CAC and the Radiator while they still remain in the coach is at the very best, a shot in the dark, so to speak.

A very, very large percentage of these rear radiator coaches are ultra cramped and pack all that engine operation stuff, i.e. bracketery, shrowds, hoses, exhaust, coolers (trans) and more in to what can be a large space but, when it's all stuffed into the back of a coach, that space becomes micro. I've had my radiator and CAC out twice and, well, without a doubt, the ONLY way to clean them accurately and thoroughly is by removing them.

A good buddy just purchased an '05 39' Journey with the C-7 350HP CAT with only 25,000 miles on it. On the way home from purchasing it, the terrain of the trip was almost all level. But, on a recent camp trip, he traveled not more than about 25 miles and, it entailed a fairly decent grade. Well, at this time of year, in the San Diego County area, it was hovering in the higher 70s in temp outside. His coach, in that short, approximate 2-3 mile grade, went to over 220 degrees.

He contacted me on it and, that was the first place I told him to look. He was flabbergasted on bad that CAC and radiator were so clogged up. I explained to him that in his model coach, there's only ONE way out of this. And that is to remove both the CAC and the radiator. Well, he'd gonna try the garden sprayer with the gunk method to see how things work. This will be interesting.

And, as for your statement of burning up a turbo due to a cracked CAC, well, I guess maybe it could happen but, after 30 years with the FD and working very, very close with our repair techs on all of our fire trucks, we had several CACs with multiple cracks and not one turbo was burnt up due to those cracks. Yep, you most certainly do loose power for sure.

The engines act like an old, naturally aspirated diesel engine when that happens. When you know and operate a fire truck on a daily basis and how well it performs, then all of a sudden you drop power or, even mildly loose some, that's one of the places we'd check. Air cleaner intake, injectors, injector pump pressure, and more all play a role in the performance of a diesel.

Pictures show A/A is particularly plugged! Before you go back together I would run the valve set this surely beats standing on your head from the bedroom!

"Valve Set"?????

Scott
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:50 AM   #126
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Valve set means preform an overhead this is good preventive maintenance. The video shows checking the CAC system for leaks same way you would check a radiator for leaks except your looking for air leaks with soapy water. Having a third of the face of the cooler plugged didn’t do your turbocharger any good. I would never assume after or if I found a cracked cooler that the turbo wasn’t hurt! Next step is looking at the back side of the turbo. Motorhomes are at a disadvantage because lack of gauges
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