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Old 04-14-2016, 06:53 PM   #1
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Cat C7 fan hub bearing etc.

After reading lots of posts about hub bearing failures I thought it was time to have a look at it at 48,000 miles. Following Scott's ( FIREUP) lead I removed my radiator and CAC and associated parts. His writeup helped a lot except mine had 2 extra screws holding the botom of the shroud to the radiator (oops) The coating of oil and grease was formidable and I do not see how you could do an effective cleaning job with them in place. After 6 rounds with my pressure washer and lots of detergent I can see through them. I attempted to take out the 4 small pulley screws with an impact driver to no avail. After soaking them with AeroKroil over night I actually got 1 out. I wound up drilling the heads off with a 9/32 cobalt drill (worked very well) and then using a small left hand twist drill to spin the rest of the bolt out.
I normally check the hub bearing for play each season by removing the ribbed belt tension and it has always been good. This time with the fan off I rotated the pully and hub and it felt very rough. On removal and inspection I found there was no grease left in the bearing. I have replaced with Cat's updated bearing (p/n 3079798) and hopefully this will be the only time I have to do this in my rv'ng lifetime.
While all this was out I chose to have the alternator rebuilt, changed the thermostats, added a drain plug to the coolant crossover tube, changed a couple of hoses and checked all the associated idler bearings and changed the air filter
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:41 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wclogger1 View Post
After reading lots of posts about hub bearing failures I thought it was time to have a look at it at 48,000 miles. Following Scott's ( FIREUP) lead I removed my radiator and CAC and associated parts. His writeup helped a lot except mine had 2 extra screws holding the botom of the shroud to the radiator (oops) The coating of oil and grease was formidable and I do not see how you could do an effective cleaning job with them in place. After 6 rounds with my pressure washer and lots of detergent I can see through them. I attempted to take out the 4 small pulley screws with an impact driver to no avail. After soaking them with AeroKroil over night I actually got 1 out. I wound up drilling the heads off with a 9/32 cobalt drill (worked very well) and then using a small left hand twist drill to spin the rest of the bolt out.
I normally check the hub bearing for play each season by removing the ribbed belt tension and it has always been good. This time with the fan off I rotated the pully and hub and it felt very rough. On removal and inspection I found there was no grease left in the bearing. I have replaced with Cat's updated bearing (p/n 3079798) and hopefully this will be the only time I have to do this in my rv'ng lifetime.
While all this was out I chose to have the alternator rebuilt, changed the thermostats, added a drain plug to the coolant crossover tube, changed a couple of hoses and checked all the associated idler bearings and changed the air filter

Hey clogger,
You ACTUALLY were able to remove all 4 of the flat head, Allen drive screws that were holding on that fan hub cover? If so, that's a pretty good feat in itself. Many good folks on here have had some serious difficulty with those darn little screws. One of the gents on here or, RV.net, actually welded nuts onto the heads of those flat heads and, was able to use a regular wrench on them to remove them. It took a couple of times but, he got that method to work.

I'm considering R & R-ing that radiator and CAC again, in the future, (not sure just how far into the future at this point) and tackling that same job. Now that I've done that radiator removal before, it's really not going to be all that hard. And, having that drain valve brazed into the crossover pipe, REALLY is a god-send in draining the system. But, glad you got your system all apart and, have been able to take care of all the potential issues. Nice work. And, yes, without a doubt, having that radiator OUT presents the most efficient way to accurately clean it.
Scott
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:34 AM   #3
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Scott, I had posted 3 more pics but for some reason it only chose to show 1. Drilling the heads off those screws went so fast I couldn't believe I even bothered messing with the impact driver. Mind you the new screws were 3 bucks a piece.
Bob
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:13 AM   #4
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I just completed the wonderful job of removing the rad/cac to get to the front of the engine and replace parts. I subsequently learned, it is not necessary to remove the rad/cac to get to the fan hub bearing. There are four bolts attaching the assembly to the block and can be removed with an open end wrench.

The added convenience of the access hole in the top of the shroud would make it a much simpler job because you can get down there and easly remove the fan bolts and spacer. As long as I was into this project as far as I was, with 73K on the odo, I replaced the serpentine tension-er and corresponding idler pulley, the fan hub bearing(had it rebuilt by CAT), the water pump belt adjustment pulley and ALL the coolant hoses except the one that goes from the engine to the HUEI pump, and both belts.
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Old 04-24-2016, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Hey clogger,

You ACTUALLY were able to remove all 4 of the flat head, Allen drive screws that were holding on that fan hub cover? If so, that's a pretty good feat in itself. Many good folks on here have had some serious difficulty with those darn little screws. One of the gents on here or, RV.net, actually welded nuts onto the heads of those flat heads and, was able to use a regular wrench on them to remove them. It took a couple of times but, he got that method to work.



I'm considering R & R-ing that radiator and CAC again, in the future, (not sure just how far into the future at this point) and tackling that same job. Now that I've done that radiator removal before, it's really not going to be all that hard. And, having that drain valve brazed into the crossover pipe, REALLY is a god-send in draining the system. But, glad you got your system all apart and, have been able to take care of all the potential issues. Nice work. And, yes, without a doubt, having that radiator OUT presents the most efficient way to accurately clean it.

Scott

Can you provide part numbers and sources for the parts you changed. I have a 2004 Itasca Meridian and am getting ready to head down the same path. Thanks Mark
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:20 PM   #6
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Megehrs (Mark). I will dig out my paperwork tomorrow and look up all those part #'s for you and send you a PM. I got them all from CAT in Sacramento.
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Old 04-26-2016, 06:20 AM   #7
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I also own an 04 Meridian with the non grease fitting hub bearing that has not been replaced and would like to have a list of replacement parts. Thanks

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