Community Forums

FIRE UP · 03-13-2013, 10:20 AM

Don,
I sincerely appreciate your nice comments. I too, like SML, like to have a nice looking rig, that includes underneath it too. We're pretty sure our rig spent it adolescent years in the back east someplace due to the amount of surface rust and, the oil pan (seen in the pictures). I'm told Winne and Itasca purchase(d) chassis's ahead of time and many of them sit, supposedly in outdoor conditions. I have no proof of this.

But, if that's the case, then I see the reasoning for the rust on the frame etc. But, anyway, I sure appreciate the info on that primer. I will most certainly look into it. I purchased some of the PQR-15 stuff and took it back due to the fact that you have to rinse it off and that would make a serious mess where the coach lives. So, I'm looking for something that's not as much of a hassle. Thanks again.
Scott

smlranger · 03-13-2013, 11:12 AM

Scott, if you want to see evidence of chassis sitting outside in the weather all you need to do is visit either the FCC plant in Gaffney, SC or the Winne factory in Iowa. I saw many chassis sitting outside at both those locations.

You may want to try SEM Rust Seal. It was recommended to me by a trusted friend in the auto collision/rv/motorcycle repair business who has also done a number off off-frame restorations on classic cars and motorcycles. He used it on my rusted windshield frame.

SEM makes Rust Mort (has to be top coated) and Rust Seal (does not have to be top coated, optional only). Either is easy to use....scrape, wire-brush the rust (do not sand or media blast...this stuff needs rust present to work), rinse with water and let dry, then put at least two coats of Rust Seal on. Turns rusted areas shiney black. I've used it on my coach and, so far, it seems to work well. I did top coat with Rustoleum. I used it on the rusted areas of my genny shroud.

I rejected POR 15 for the same reason as you....I had read and heard it worked but was messy to use.

A quart of Rust Seal from O'Reilly's is about $60.

Pusherman · 03-13-2013, 05:54 PM

Now having 2 years experience with the Pitt Guard stuff, I really like it. It's pretty easy to work with. We ground off the heavy stuff, and primed it, then finish coated.

The shop that recommended it to me has been in business for 20+ years, and they really know their stuff. Thanks to Caledonia Diesel for their advice.

I have read the same issues with POR.

gewilli · 05-10-2013, 03:24 PM

Anyone know what torque is spec for the cat c7 oil pan? I am changing mine out due to major rust.

mel s · 05-11-2013, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

I've been dealing with some rust on the undercarriage of my coach....ping tanks, underside of the some of the storage compartments, etc. The oil pan on my 3126E is a rust nightmare. I wired brushed it and painted it with high heat paint when I first got the coach in 2005 but it has really gotten worse. I am thinking I might need to replace the pan before it rusts thru and starts to leak.

Is this a common issue with CAT's in DP's?

This is not an answer specific to Cat, but some info about rust based on my experiance.

I have driven cars through/during 45 Wisconsin winters, (some with over 200,000 miles and over 20 years old).
The salt used in the winter on the roads here causes everything under a car to rust badly.
On different vehicles I have had a mount for a shock absorber, a steering box, a leaf spring hanger, and other suspension parts rust to the point of breaking.

I've never had, (or heard of), an oil pan "rusting thru".
Mel
'96 Safari

Pusherman · 05-11-2013, 03:37 PM

Mel, We have repaired or replaced several oil pans on both CAT and Cummins engines for rust issues. The engine hangs low, and the oil pan is susceptible to stones, etc. being thrown up on the oil pan. Nicks in the paint starts a rust spot. The rest is history.

It happens.

smlranger · 05-11-2013, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pusherman

Mel, We have repaired or replaced several oil pans on both CAT and Cummins engines for rust issues. The engine hangs low, and the oil pan is susceptible to stones, etc. being thrown up on the oil pan. Nicks in the paint starts a rust spot. The rest is history.

It happens.

Don, I have a full can of CAT yellow left over from when I painted the oil pan on the Journey. If I get rust on the ISL pan, I wonder if the guys at Cummins will think I'm nuts if I just paint it CAT yellow

.

Pusherman · 05-12-2013, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

Don, I have a full can of CAT yellow left over from when I painted the oil pan on the Journey. If I get rust on the ISL pan, I wonder if the guys at Cummins will think I'm nuts if I just paint it CAT yellow

.

Gary, when you do, please take pictures! We'll make that a special offering in our shop exclusive for Cummins customers who have CAT envy...

gewilli · 05-20-2013, 05:42 PM

I had Freightliner change out my pan. You either have to remove the coolant cross over pipe or undo the oil sump pump. After several hours under the DP I decided it was more than I was up for trying to get ready for Memorial Weekend.

FIRE UP · 05-20-2013, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gewilli

I had Freightliner change out my pan. You either have to remove the coolant cross over pipe or undo the oil sump pump. After several hours under the DP I decided it was more than I was up for trying to get ready for Memorial Weekend.

gewilli,
Yes Sir, you do have to remove that cross over pipe. And, while I had mine off for some radiator work lately, I modified that pipe. Since Freightliner and CAT made it somewhat of a pain in the a$$ to drain the coolant, I decided to make it easy on myself. I installed a "bung" in that crossover pipe and then, installed a pet cock. That is now the lowest point in the system and, right after I installed everything, new radiator, CAC, and other stuff, then filled the system with coolant, I found I had a bad radiator hose end and needed to cut the leading 1 1/2" off and re-install it.

So, having that pet cock there sure made draining the system SERIOUSLY easier to drain.
Scott

moisheh · 05-21-2013, 06:49 AM

I think that fireup should start a new business. Cat oil Pan Reconditioning: Bring your MH to us and in a few hours your pan will shine like new. Fast Service and Low prices!

gewilli · 05-21-2013, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

gewilli,
Yes Sir, you do have to remove that cross over pipe. And, while I had mine off for some radiator work lately, I modified that pipe. Since Freightliner and CAT made it somewhat of a pain in the a$$ to drain the coolant, I decided to make it easy on myself. I installed a "bung" in that crossover pipe and then, installed a pet cock. That is now the lowest point in the system and, right after I installed everything, new radiator, CAC, and other stuff, then filled the system with coolant, I found I had a bad radiator hose end and needed to cut the leading 1 1/2" off and re-install it.

So, having that pet cock there sure made draining the system SERIOUSLY easier to drain.
Scott

Nice work fireup. That makes a ton of common sense and sure will make it much easier.

FIRE UP · 05-21-2013, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moisheh

I think that fireup should start a new business. Cat oil Pan Reconditioning: Bring your MH to us and in a few hours your pan will shine like new. Fast Service and Low prices!

Mr Moisheh,
That's funny. I certainly do have a few zillion hours on a creeper. Way more than I care to admit to. You know, there sure has been quite a few on here talking about rust and CAT oil pans. Now, what amazes me is, a company as large as Caterpillar, with all the design engineers and infrastructure they have, that they still don't know how to prep an oil pan so it won't rust?

Yes, there's rusty oil pans from other manufacturers out there but, not all that many. I don't know about Cummins and how theirs are holding up but, I sure would have thought CAT would have done a better job. We had a several versions of Detroits in all our fire trucks and, while a portion of the rear frame, beds, support structures, water tanks, etc. would develop rust, the engine components and oil pans didn't. The later versions of the Series 60 Detroits even came out with Fiberglass oil pans. Talk about "Thick".

Quote:

Originally Posted by gewilli

Nice work fireup. That makes a ton of common sense and sure will make it much easier.

gewilli,
You know, I looked and looked for a drain plug on that setup in prep for getting ready to pull the radiator and CAC. I looked for a good hour. Then, I called Freightliner Customer Assistance. They told me, "Yep, you have one, it's on the drivers side of the radiator at the lowest left side"(as you're looking at it from the rear of the coach). So, I commenced to looking, AGAIN! Nope, not there. So, I managed to loosen some other hoses etc. to SLOWLEY drain that system. Well, after finally getting the radiator out, I DID find the drain/pet cock.

It was on the passenger side, INSIDE THE SURROUNDING FRAME of the radiator. There was no way in he.. that I would be able to even see it, much less get my puppy paw hands in there and twist it to drain the system. Talk about asinine. Very poor planning Freightliner and CAT. So, being that I figured I'd have my grubby little hands in and on that cooling system in the future some time, I thought, what the heck, I'll just install my own, EASY TO GET TO, pet cock so that, not IF, but WHEN, it comes time to drain this system again, for maintenance or, whatever's needed, it will be way, way easier to drain and, seriously faster. So, that's the story on that.

In case anyone's interested, it's simple modification. Yes, you'll definitely have to drain the system, then remove that crossover pipe. Oh yeah, definitely mark the bottom most edge prior to removal. Then, after it's removed, simply drill the hole, I used a step drill, way easier that way, and drill it to the size of insertion portion of the bung. Then, I "brazed" in that bung. A lot nicer now. Hope this helps some.
Scott

moisheh · 05-21-2013, 03:06 PM

The C7 and C9 are unlike any other Cat motors I have seen. Sort of an economy version of a real Diesel. We had a Bluebird Classic with a 3208. Not one of Cat's best engines but the oil pan was made of thick steel. No rounded edges. It was rectangular and darn thick. Ours was an 88 and when I sold it this past winter not only was it not rusted the paint was still pretty good. I have owned 2 Cummins powered MH's and the pans never had that problem. Our Bounder is/was stored indoors and spent it's life in AZ so no rust. When I compare this Bounder with our old 02 Bounder ( Cummins) I must admit the C7 has more power than the 5.9 but I doubt it has the longevity. I worry about the HEUI pump and the fan bearing.