Cat techs help! Cranks long but runs fine?

[jbrinsfi]

Originally Posted by Cat

That's a very good point. The system will generate a code if the solenoid wiring is bad but it won't if the heater element is bad. To make sure you'll need either a clamp amperage meter to read the amperage the element is actually using. Should be 70-90 amps. Or voltmeter with ohm reading and take an ohm reading of the heating element.

I would think you would also see a voltage drop on the chassis batteries if the grid heating kicked on and then a slight rise when it completed the heat cycle???

Jim

[gatorcq]

The Good thing is the ECM (Engine Control Module ) Is doing the cranking and starting. So it knows what it is doing. This includes turning on the Wait to Stat Lite, Turning back on the Wait to start Lite after it is started. And measuring the Coolant and Air temperature which then knows how long to keep the Wait to start Lamp on.

Wait to start Lamp = Air Inlet Heater.

[Cat]

Originally Posted by jbrinsfi

I would think you would also see a voltage drop on the chassis batteries if the grid heating kicked on and then a slight rise when it completed the heat cycle???

Jim

Might see voltage drop, but enough to show on a meter maybe, kinda depends on the battery condition and how many batteries there are. The only really accurate way is to run the amperage test. Then you can tell is its going put out the correct heat.

Computer is only going to turn it on for a period on time depending temperatures.

[wildcatter]

I would have the starter and solenoid tested, I once had a car do this, I took the starter out and had it tested under load, the starter wasn't turning fast enough and didn't have enough torque to turn the motor over like it should have, it sounded like it did but it didn't.