Engine overheating

[mel s]

Originally Posted by Mr Miyagi

Actually looking straight down into the window, you're looking between the Fan and Charge Air Cooler. The space between the intercooler and radiator that accumulates the dreaded 'road cheese' is a little more forward.
I'm currently in the design process of fabricating a right angle spray nozzle that will reach in between the CAC and radiator for future cleaning. However, once our crankcase vent (slobber tube) was extended to the edge of the trailer hitch, that gunk that builds up ends up being more road dirt and small leaves.
The window will also allow very good access to the fan bearing if it ever fails as well. Hope that helps keep you're coach running cool...

Mr Miyagi
I misinterpreted your pictures.
Thanks for the clarification.

I don't need an access opening between the fan and the CAC.
On my coach it is not a problem to see, and clean, the fan side of the CAC through the fan fins, as well as grease the fan bearing, (and I have no trouble cleaning the rear facing side of the radiator).

However, although I have no cooling issues. I would like to thoroughly clean the CAC side of the radiator and the radiator side of the CAC.
To do that I need to add/cut an access opening in the part of the shroud between the CAC and the radiator, (through which to insert a right angle spray nozzle).

Good point about extending the "slobber tube".
Since extending mine I've only had to clean my CAC and radiator every 30,000 miles, (3-4 years), or so.

Mel
'96 Safari, 3126 Cat, rear radiator, 136k miles

[ProjectPro]

The local Cat shop replaced the CAC and radiator during this year's annual service. We just arrived in Florida, and the Phaeton ran at an almost constant 186 degrees in stop-and-go, 55 mph on a rural highway, and 65 mph on cruise control running on I-95.
One negative - the clogged radiator kept the toad from getting oil spray on it, but the new radiator allowed it to get pretty grubby on the trip south. Time to figure out how to reroute the slobber tube, I think.

[DMTTRANSPORT]

Run the slobber tube to the ground like we do on the Big Trucks and keep the oil level between the full & add mark.

[stink]

Originally Posted by DMTTRANSPORT

Run the slobber tube to the ground like we do on the Big Trucks and keep the oil level between the full & add mark.

You can also make and install an oil separator on your slobber tube. I drain mine with every oil change.

[DMTTRANSPORT]

Originally Posted by stink

You can also make and install an oil separator on your slobber tube. I drain mine with every oil change.

My Cat has a tank that separates (catches) the oil and returns it to the oil pan and then the slobber tube is off the top of the tank and vents down, still spits a small amount when climbing grades but not like it did before the install

[lacdubonnet]

yes for sure your rad could be plugged with oil from tube and with a c7 the oil capacity is ONLY 19 QUARTS I f I remember right had to recalibrate my dipstick now the full mark Is between add and full

[mel s]

Originally Posted by lacdubonnet

yes for sure your rad could be plugged with oil from tube and with a c7 the oil capacity is ONLY 19 QUARTS I f I remember right had to recalibrate my dipstick now the full mark Is between add and full

lacdubonnet
The engine oil capacity of a Caterpillar engine depends on which oil pan is on the engine.
Mine, (with the cast aluminum deep sump oil pan), takes 29 quarts with an oil filter change.
To find the correct oil capacity of your particular Cat engine, call the Caterpillar RV Hotline, (877 777-3126), with your engine serial number.
Mel
'96 Safari, 250 hp 3126