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You should NOT spray starting fluid in the intake, no one should be spraying fluid in the intake. You didn't say which model 3126 you have but some had copper seats under the injectors. The rough explosion from starting fluid makes the injectors hop the causes the injector seat to fail, lots of labor and maybe set of injectors. Also you probably have a inlet heater. This inlet heater get red hot when preheating so you are spraying a flammable gas on to a hot electric heating element, not so good
It is a huge pain in the butt to change the fuel filter without a priming pump. You can fill the filter but you have pour the fuel in only through the outside ring of holes-- Do Not Fill the filter from the center hole. The outside holes are where the unfiltered fuel comes into the filter it leaves clean through the center hole and goes directly to your injectors. So do not let any fuel you are filling the filter with into the center hole. If want block the center hole off with something clean - plastic plug etc or just slowly fill the filter from the outside ring of holes. Then remove your plug of course. But be careful a set of injectors is not cheap. Then you will still have to crank awhile to get it started. But it should with the filter full. Good luck
Jimbob 1947,
Follow what Fireup has suggested above...it works! Had a similiar problem on our cat c7 after changing both fuel filters and was about to call freightliner to send a mobile mechanic out when I found Fireup's orginal posting and followed his process and it started up just like his did. I have also followed his idea of putting shutoff valves on each side of the fuel filter housing so it doesnt lose prime when the filter is changed.
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1998 3500 Dodge DRW, 180,000 mi. on a 5.9L,24Vdiesel engine w/ turbo, 4 spd. 4:10 rear.
2000 golden falcon fifth wheel. 2,10lb. rat terriers and "the cat"
Ok for all of the folks that have followed my travails of not being able to get my ‘02 Phaeton started since November. Well I’m happy to report I got it to start today! Turns out the problem was a 20a in-line fuse to the ECM module. It turns out the odometer was reading all 8’s even though the dash indicator lights were on. I called Freightliner (they are fantastic to work with) and told the tech my starting problem and the reading on the odometer. According to him the odometer readings are fed by the ECM and that I use check the 20a fuse in the battery compartment. I looked at the fuse an didn’t see it was blown in the obvious way. However on the side of the fuse was a black spot like it was burned. So I replaced the fuse when and turned on the key and the odometer when back to its normal reading. I turned the key and within 5 seconds it started. After fooling with this staring issue for a month suffice it to say I’m delighted [emoji3]. I spent all this time thinking it was a fuel problem and instead it was ignition related. You can never know too much about RV’s.
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