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Old 12-25-2017, 12:03 PM   #15
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Agree. If turbo bearings are shot that would explain the oil consumption. No reason that engine or any other should have major wear issues unless it hasn't been properly maintained, it's been severely overheated or it's dusted.
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Old 12-25-2017, 01:04 PM   #16
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Turbo will definitely cause this problem. When the turbo went out on our plane, it pumped enough oil out the exhaust to trigger the low oil alarm and make an emergency landing. By the time we got on the ground, the engine was toast from lack of oil.
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Old 12-25-2017, 01:13 PM   #17
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At only 79k mi that engine has just been broken in.
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:50 PM   #18
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I have a ton of blowby, i suspect cylinder damage as well...on top of the turbo, i also found issues on piping between filter and turbo, she has been eating dirt for sure.
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:52 PM   #19
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And best case scenerio- i will get it open and find no damage, i already pulled the oil pan and can see light scoring on the lower parts of the cylinders but it looks like it would hone out i just need to look on top of pistons now and check out the valves.
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Old 12-25-2017, 04:29 PM   #20
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With the blowby , sure could be rings. Sounds like the motor does not have liners , so you would have to pull it out to get it rebuilt. Your best bet is to find out if it can be rebuilt at a reasonable cost . If not then start looking for another motor. The problem with a used motor is you never know what the condition is. In my experience the best used motors come from wrecks as opposed to the vehicles that were retired to the junkyard.
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Old 12-25-2017, 04:50 PM   #21
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With the blowby , sure could be rings. Sounds like the motor does not have liners , so you would have to pull it out to get it rebuilt. Your best bet is to find out if it can be rebuilt at a reasonable cost . If not then start looking for another motor. The problem with a used motor is you never know what the condition is. In my experience the best used motors come from wrecks as opposed to the vehicles that were retired to the junkyard.


Agree 100 percent, i am just pulling it apart until i locate the exact issue before i pull the motor, because on my model the engine has to come out the bottom, and with limited resources i am going to have to back it over a retaining wall at my neighbors and use the skid loader to lower it out, i am trying my best to avoid this.
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Old 12-25-2017, 06:08 PM   #22
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Be careful internet search saws it is a 1250lb unit.

BTW I agree with the miles don't scare me crowd.
My 3126B school bus has 145K and over 10,000 hours on the clock.
Anothe one in the fleet is almost at 190K mile and 13K hours.
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Old 12-25-2017, 06:37 PM   #23
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Be careful internet search saws it is a 1250lb unit.



BTW I agree with the miles don't scare me crowd.

My 3126B school bus has 145K and over 10,000 hours on the clock.

Anothe one in the fleet is almost at 190K mile and 13K hours.


Yep, appreciate it, and i agree miles not the issue, maintenance and frequent use is more important to me. By removing the head at least it will be 200 pounds less when i remove it. Lol
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Agree 100 percent, i am just pulling it apart until i locate the exact issue before i pull the motor, because on my model the engine has to come out the bottom, and with limited resources i am going to have to back it over a retaining wall at my neighbors and use the skid loader to lower it out, i am trying my best to avoid this.
Before you get to carried away there are people who have a portable boring machine that may be able to bore the engine in place.
Hear is some one who has had the same problem.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/urge...ng-202637.html
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:32 PM   #25
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I have 115K on my 3126B and it's dusted and I've been looking for another engine for it. The cause was determined to possibly from paper that got into the system when my air filter collapsed from getting wet. There is s'posed to be drain holes in the filter cans, but not all of them have them. Soo, when I pulled mine out, it was rather a bit of a shock to see the filter collapsed. The shop says that was more than likely the reason for the dusting. They also told me that I could still drive it but it was gonna be weak and probably overheat on hills in hot weather,which it does. It actually doesn't burn much oil and doesn't show blowby going down the road,only when stopped and at low idle. When waiting in line for fuel, I shut it down so I don't smoke other folks out. If I run it on high idle, it doesn't smoke much at all.
My rig is an '01 Tradewinds and I'm wondering if anyone has changed from CAT to Cummins or vice versa. Is this possible with out a lot of extra work?
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:59 PM   #26
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Dustinwaste, take a close look at your injector tips when you pull them out. If something went through, you will see damage to the tips.
As far as the excess blowby, bad turbo bearings can do that as well. Exhaust pressure is quite high, and if the seals leak on that side, pressure will leak into the crankcase. We used to use the old plastic bag taped over the turbo trick to test the seals. Plug the drain line, put air pressure on the oil in line and see if the bag blows up. Simple, but it works. Learned a few tricks in 40 years fixing those things!
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:38 AM   #27
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Dustinwaste, take a close look at your injector tips when you pull them out. If something went through, you will see damage to the tips.

As far as the excess blowby, bad turbo bearings can do that as well. Exhaust pressure is quite high, and if the seals leak on that side, pressure will leak into the crankcase. We used to use the old plastic bag taped over the turbo trick to test the seals. Plug the drain line, put air pressure on the oil in line and see if the bag blows up. Simple, but it works. Learned a few tricks in 40 years fixing those things!

Happy Glamping.


The tips had some carbon on them but i didn’t see any visible damage to them, i will try the plastic bag trick, thanks for the tip, i will have the head removed today to give the cylinders a look, CAT told me about 1500 to overbore and install sleeves on my block. And deck the head. Thats IF i do all teardown and just bring them the block
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:26 PM   #28
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Update: pulled head, all cylinders 2-6 look great, #1 side wall has huge groove at top of ring near top dead center, i would guess .060 lip ground into the cylinder all the way around. A ton of carbon on #1 valves, oil in #1 exhaust. Put pocket knife between ring and cylinder wall, cannot believe it ran as good as it did, need to bore 1 hole and sleeve the rest will be fine. Rod needs replaced on #1 and bearing. Piston n rings actually didnt look too bad but the second ring is very sharp. Anyone know someone who does mobile boring? I am going to replace the #1 injector as well obviously
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