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Old 10-11-2017, 08:20 AM   #15
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:34 AM   #16
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Drilled it open and turned the screw with knife tip opened the valve manually. Proof is in the puffing.
I didn't fix it, or ruin it, just opened it. I will leave out in plugged
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:39 PM   #17
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The valve, the portion that the hoses connect to, does not open. Just work with the openings on each side of the valve to remove any gunk.
The part of the whole heater valve that you can open is the printed circuit. Not much going on in there that you can work with. The dash temp controller sends a signal to the controller/printed circuit and that controls the position of the actual valve where the hoses are connected. If you remove that portion there should be a square end that will be inserted into the printed circuit portion. Once removed, the valve portion should be able to be moved by hand or a little force. If not, it is really gummed up.

Even if you can not find a brass manual shut off valve, a similar valve from NAPA or such will work. They would even have connectors and an extra length of hose to make the connection and totally bypass the valve.
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:46 PM   #18
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I just found the pix you sent of your unit. It is somewhat different than the design of mine. It has to function the same. Were you able to get the valve to rotate easily?

One other thing that I have done with mine other than work with the valve is to replace the dash temp controller. Mine is a Ford part number and the p/n is printed on the part. The shape had to be cut to fit into the brackets of the instrument panel. The old one was radically modified and the new one was reshaped also.
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:54 PM   #19
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Coolant Valve

Your picture (and part #'s) seem to be of the old style Evans Tempcon coolant valve. My '98 Tradewinds had that system. The valve you are working with is probably fine (they rarely failed). The week component in that system was an electronic circuit board that was actually installed in-line in the wiring harness between the dash controls and the coolant valve on the firewall. If you follow the wiring harness from your dash controls about 2 feet into the wiring maze in your dash, you should find a small square plastic box (about 2" square and about 1/4" thick) in-line in the wiring. Inside the box is a small circuit board pushed into a socket (what a terrible design for replacement). It is that circuit board that usually fails. And, is probably no longer available. (I found one in an RV salvage in Missouri to replace mine when it died.) Evans Tempcon does make a replacement kit to replace that old style system with a newer design (part #RV218809). The sad part is the new system requires a new wiring harness from the dash out to the control on the firewall, so it is a bit of a challenge to install. Good luck.

Richard
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Old 10-11-2017, 05:18 PM   #20
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Once I got to the inside with a drill, I did not have trouble turning the gears tho open. I checked and three was power in the plug that connects tho the valve. I found that it varied with the position of the dash knob so I think out had power.
Thanks
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