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wsmcycle · 10-11-2017, 09:34 AM

Drilled it open and turned the screw with knife tip opened the valve manually. Proof is in the puffing.
I didn't fix it, or ruin it, just opened it. I will leave out in plugged

rvbiker45 · 10-11-2017, 01:39 PM

The valve, the portion that the hoses connect to, does not open. Just work with the openings on each side of the valve to remove any gunk.
The part of the whole heater valve that you can open is the printed circuit. Not much going on in there that you can work with. The dash temp controller sends a signal to the controller/printed circuit and that controls the position of the actual valve where the hoses are connected. If you remove that portion there should be a square end that will be inserted into the printed circuit portion. Once removed, the valve portion should be able to be moved by hand or a little force. If not, it is really gummed up.

Even if you can not find a brass manual shut off valve, a similar valve from NAPA or such will work. They would even have connectors and an extra length of hose to make the connection and totally bypass the valve.

rvbiker45 · 10-11-2017, 01:46 PM

I just found the pix you sent of your unit. It is somewhat different than the design of mine. It has to function the same. Were you able to get the valve to rotate easily?

One other thing that I have done with mine other than work with the valve is to replace the dash temp controller. Mine is a Ford part number and the p/n is printed on the part. The shape had to be cut to fit into the brackets of the instrument panel. The old one was radically modified and the new one was reshaped also.

hex nut · 10-11-2017, 02:54 PM

Your picture (and part #'s) seem to be of the old style Evans Tempcon coolant valve. My '98 Tradewinds had that system. The valve you are working with is probably fine (they rarely failed). The week component in that system was an electronic circuit board that was actually installed in-line in the wiring harness between the dash controls and the coolant valve on the firewall. If you follow the wiring harness from your dash controls about 2 feet into the wiring maze in your dash, you should find a small square plastic box (about 2" square and about 1/4" thick) in-line in the wiring. Inside the box is a small circuit board pushed into a socket (what a terrible design for replacement). It is that circuit board that usually fails. And, is probably no longer available. (I found one in an RV salvage in Missouri to replace mine when it died.) Evans Tempcon does make a replacement kit to replace that old style system with a newer design (part #RV218809). The sad part is the new system requires a new wiring harness from the dash out to the control on the firewall, so it is a bit of a challenge to install. Good luck.

Richard

wsmcycle · 10-11-2017, 04:18 PM

Once I got to the inside with a drill, I did not have trouble turning the gears tho open. I checked and three was power in the plug that connects tho the valve. I found that it varied with the position of the dash knob so I think out had power.
Thanks

lonfu · 02-18-2019, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wsmcycle

Once I got to the inside with a drill, I did not have trouble turning the gears tho open. I checked and three was power in the plug that connects tho the valve. I found that it varied with the position of the dash knob so I think out had power.
Thanks

yep, I know an old thread, but looks like my valve has intense... was wondering "where" you drilled the hole to access the screw to loosen the valve?

did you reseal the hole, if pressurized, what method did you use?

01 DSDP newmar FL 3126b with the 5 wire plug.

got hot to the intake of the valve, just nothing out. Still have to check the power to the plug. I suspect the valve because the coach sat for 11 years not running. driving with blanket on my legs is getting real old...

wsmcycle · 02-19-2019, 07:18 AM

I do not remember exactly and i don't have a picture. There is no fluid in the valve. No leaking will occur because of the hole. on the motor, there is a worm gear driving the first gear in the train. that is the point of greatest leverage. Determine where you think that worm is and drill near by(offset)drill small hole first and if you don't run into a bushing drill larger. If the valve is stuck, the most power you can apply to un-stick it to help the motor turn the worm gear. Send pic and i can probably tell you where to drill.
An inline valve from a parts store works well. Especially if it pretty cold. adjust the temp by changing the fan speed.
Good luck

lonfu · 03-29-2019, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wsmcycle

I do not remember exactly and i don't have a picture. There is no fluid in the valve. No leaking will occur because of the hole. on the motor, there is a worm gear driving the first gear in the train. that is the point of greatest leverage. Determine where you think that worm is and drill near by(offset)drill small hole first and if you don't run into a bushing drill larger. If the valve is stuck, the most power you can apply to un-stick it to help the motor turn the worm gear. Send pic and i can probably tell you where to drill.
An inline valve from a parts store works well. Especially if it pretty cold. adjust the temp by changing the fan speed.
Good luck

Thanks, my valve tested good, but when fully open it won't allow enough coolant through to get any hot air. I finally just installed a 3/4" pex ball valve as a temp fix and screwed shut the outside vent door. Plenty of heat coming with the new valve installed. I've ordered and received a electric ball valve from amazon. $32 going to install it and hook it up to the original control wires. The original gate valve only opened about 3/16" of an inch so very little flow of hot coolant. Looks like another Newmar engineering brain fart. It will soon be fixed, funny how the heater only works on the "foot" setting. ON all other settings the AC compressor turns on. Since there is no blend door to close the hot air blows across the cold evap coil. NO wonder Evans filed for bankruptcy and got sold off in pieces and refuse to take any kind of responsibility for their bad designs.

wsmcycle · 03-30-2019, 07:52 AM

you said "I've ordered and received a electric ball valve from amazon. $32 "
what is the valve and part number. that is a great price!

lonfu · 03-30-2019, 11:06 PM

here is the link to the valve that I chose.

Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4" Brass Ball Valve with Standard Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

wsmcycle · 04-01-2019, 07:21 AM

That two wire valve appears to be either opened or closed, nothing in between. The dash heat valve is variable according to the position of the heat selector knob.

lonfu · 04-02-2019, 02:56 AM

That two wire valve appears to be either opened or closed, nothing in between. The dash heat valve is variable according to the position of the heat selector knob.

That is exactly right. It is a NC valve. when power is applied it completely opens. when power is removed it closes. The original valve was some what adjustable, but, because the actual valve opening was so small there was very little coolant passing through. When I had it full open I still got cold air..... the opening was less than 3/16th of an inch when fully open. I have found with the manual 3/4 inch pex ball valve that I get warm air from the heater. Not hot, or any where near scalding, but just warm air. If you want your heater to work you must replace this valve.... I can control how much air enters through the floor ducts by varying the fan speed...

lonfu · 06-13-2019, 01:47 PM

[QUOTE=wsmcycle;4705372]That two wire valve appears to be either opened or closed, nothing in between. The dash heat valve is variable according to the position of the heat selector knob.[/QUOTE

the original valve is also a 3 position valve. full open, 1/2 and closed. there is a small control board under the dash that controlled the valve only allowing the 3 positions. Repeating, the valve only opens a very small a mount and if you have heating problems replace the entire thing....

Is this the temp of my Frig???? no.... it is the temp of my dash ac at 94 ambient, vent just right of steer wheel ..... Mid 30's is what it is capable of running at. My dash ac cools the front of my coach 3852DSDP......It can keep the coach area at 77 degrees while traveling.....