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Old 02-10-2016, 08:59 AM   #15
YC1
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It was a loose nut on the end of the wrench. Something so simple can cause such misery.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:55 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelm130 View Post
Bill - What does the isolator look like and about how much was it?

Thanks
Ben
On my 2004 it is not an isolator but a solenoid that looks similar to this starter solenoid: Tekonsha 4 Terminal Battery Switch Isolator - $17.99
The one for the battery system is for continual use and is more expensive.
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:30 AM   #17
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Let's no confuse diode based solid state isolators with mechanical solenoid isolators.

Solid state isolators are about 4 X 6 inch, with fins. They connect between the alternator output and the battery banks. 3 posts all the same gauge wires.

Mechanical solenoids, more popular since the early 2000s, connect one battery bank to the other. They may be controlled by a electronic controller ( BIRD, IRD ) or simply by the key. Many of then are also controlled by the Boost switch.

They look like the old Ford starter solenoids, 2 big and 2 little posts, but are built different for continuous duty.

There is also a BIG BOY solenoid. That is the same as the smaller one but can handle higher current.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:10 PM   #18
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My RV has two of the solenoid isolators, one ties the batteries together for starter boost and the other is larger and allows the engine alternator to charge both house and chassis batteries. The larger one died on mine a year or so ago and I found a replacement on the internet but don't remember the cost but think it was around $60.
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