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Old 12-31-2018, 07:39 AM   #15
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Check the belt . A loose or slipping belt will cause overheating .
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:17 AM   #16
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If this condition came on over time, temperature progressively kept rising over months/years, then you have obstruction in your CAC/Rad. Blowing air through the components will not indicate it is clean. The CAC/Rad are sandwiched together and what is in between will never be cleaned without disassembly. I had one fellow that said it happened from one day to the next. I climbed under his coach to find a Walmart bag stuck to the radiator....... Removed the bag, he went from 210 to 192 immediately.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:21 AM   #17
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Steam clean the radiator. That year Cat had a crankcase vent that breathed externally and chances are the oil vapor have covered the radiator flues, collecting dirt and debris. Had that happen to a Cat powered coach we had several years ago. Freightliner shop in Gaffney added a pipe that vented the crankcase below the radiator and solved the problem - after steam cleaning the radiator thoroughly
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:41 PM   #18
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A member "Fireup" did an excellent job on illustrating and completing this procedure with photo's. Search for his threads, you'll find it.
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Lost man View Post
I donít let it get that hot to lose fluids, but all sensors, bells whistles go off on dash at 210* coach lose power at 220
I would not rule out a bad thermostat if your engine is a 3126 it has two thermostats in the same hole. Do what CAT suggested and if you are getting a good air flow I would suspect a thermostat. Not a hard job to replace.
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:22 PM   #20
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Let's not forget the little water pump belt. If it is slipping it will cause the engine to get hot fast. And its easy to check also.
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:54 PM   #21
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Check water pump pressure!
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:26 PM   #22
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Yep,
I'm a tad confused on the OPs engine and other info. A CAT "3630"???? Hmmm, pretty sure I've not heard of that model/version. In years or era of say, '00 to 'late '03, CAT was supplying a 3126 engine with a few variables of that model, B, C, and E if I'm not mistaken. Then, in late '03 the new C-7 appeared and it replaced the 3126.

Also, since the OP has not actually supplied the year/make/model/chassis of his coach, it's kinda hard to help here with a more accurate answer. As far as I've been lead to believe, in all CAT equipped, 3126 or C-7, rear radiator coaches, there is NO CLUTCH FAN. I'm by far, certainly no expert but, in all the coaches I've dealt with, worked on and many of my friends have had, that had or have the 3126 or the C-7, there's never been any clutch fan.

So, until the OP supplies us with the specifics of his coach, I'm kinda wondering if it, in fact, truly does have a clutch fan. Just trying to round up all the accurate facts to help with an answer here.
Scott
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:21 AM   #23
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Yep,
I'm by far, certainly no expert but, in all the coaches I've dealt with, worked on and many of my friends have had, that had or have the 3126 or the C-7, there's never been any clutch fan.

Scott
Interesting - did not know that. All the early (70s -80s) gas engines I worked on (as mechanic), IIRC, had fan clutches for fuel economy. Although I can't remember now if this was true on the big diesels too. I do recall some having air-actuated fan clutches.

So the fan on the rear radiator CAT is "direct drive" off engine crank pulley (fan speed is proportional to engine rpm).
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:38 AM   #24
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Interesting - did not know that. All the early (70s -80s) gas engines I worked on (as mechanic), IIRC, had fan clutches for fuel economy. Although I can't remember now if this was true on the big diesels too. I do recall some having air-actuated fan clutches.

So the fan on the rear radiator CAT is "direct drive" off engine crank pulley (fan speed is proportional to engine rpm).
CountryB,
"Fluid" drive fans or, otherwise known as "Clutch fans" or "Fan Clutches", were and are still installed for various reasons, gas mileage being one of them. Other reasons are, no need for engine or radiator cooling at higher speeds due to the pressure of wind and aerodynamics of the front end of a vehicle. And, if you look (most likely you remember this being that you worked on many), that many factory fan blades are not evenly spaced. That is, there is a wider gap between some, than there is in others of the same fan. The manufacturers figured out over time that the fans with evenly spaced blades, actually curtailed the air flow through the radiator at given speeds.

But, when an irregular spacing was provided, there was/is a better air flow from pressurized air from higher speed driving. And, also, when a front engine car/truck etc. is coupled with direct drive fan, that would also inhibit air flow. So, insert the "Fan clutch". Now, at higher speeds, the fan automatically slows down due to it's being controlled by HEAT, and the air flow is allowed to proceed uninhibited.

As for rear engine, CAT powered, REAR RADIATOR coaches, especially in the 3126 and C-7 versions, as stated, I've not seen one yet that has a FACTORY installed fan clutch. There are a few reasons for this. One, a rear radiator cooled diesel coach is POOR at best, based on the aerodynamics alone. Does it work? Yes, it works but, if there's any clogging of the fins, that cooling process is dramatically reduced. Second, there is no "forced" air through the radiator like there is on a front engine truck/coach/car etc. ALL the air has to be supplied by the engine fan.

Third, and quite important, the turbo cooled air or, the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) as it's often referred to, also needs maximum cooling in order for better combustion and engine operation. if you added a fan clutch to this sort of system, the time the fan is NOT ENGAGED, will have a negative effect on that CAC. So, a fan clutch in a rear radiator diesel coach, while it WILL REDUCE NOISE, it will also have some not so good effects. As for gas mileage, there are so many ulterior varying factors, i.e grades, wind, temp, load, tire pressure, and more that simply adding a fan clutch to increase gas mileage ain't gonna happen.

There was a gent/member on here quite some time ago that rounded up all the parts needed to convert his C-7 direct drive fan to a clutch fan unit. If I recall, he tied the control into an existing, plugged off harness for a side radiator which he did not have but, the harness was there, as it is in many of our coaches. I don't remember the results of the install, good or bad, other than he did say much of his lower speed driving was considerably quieter.
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Old 01-02-2019, 03:10 PM   #25
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Yep,
I'm a tad confused on the OPs engine and other info. A CAT "3630"???? Hmmm, pretty sure I've not heard of that model/version. In years or era of say, '00 to 'late '03, CAT was supplying a 3126 engine with a few variables of that model, B, C, and E if I'm not mistaken. Then, in late '03 the new C-7 appeared and it replaced the 3126.

Also, since the OP has not actually supplied the year/make/model/chassis of his coach, it's kinda hard to help here with a more accurate answer. As far as I've been lead to believe, in all CAT equipped, 3126 or C-7, rear radiator coaches, there is NO CLUTCH FAN. I'm by far, certainly no expert but, in all the coaches I've dealt with, worked on and many of my friends have had, that had or have the 3126 or the C-7, there's never been any clutch fan.

So, until the OP supplies us with the specifics of his coach, I'm kinda wondering if it, in fact, truly does have a clutch fan. Just trying to round up all the accurate facts to help with an answer here.
Scott
Correct, there is no fan clutch on this engine. It could be a loose or missing water pump belt, but probably is a clogged radiator. Based on its age, the thermostats should be changed anyway. After the radiator is cleaned, the fumes tube/hose should be extended to the rear bumper to avoid clogging up the radiator again. You need an elbow at the end to avoid spraying the tow car with engine oil. To see if the radiator is clogged, hang a trouble light on the engine side of the radiator some night and then look through from the outside. I don't think you'll see any light.
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:12 PM   #26
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Correct, there is no fan clutch on this engine. It could be a loose or missing water pump belt, but probably is a clogged radiator. Based on its age, the thermostats should be changed anyway. After the radiator is cleaned, the fumes tube/hose should be extended to the rear bumper to avoid clogging up the radiator again. You need an elbow at the end to avoid spraying the tow car with engine oil. To see if the radiator is clogged, hang a trouble light on the engine side of the radiator some night and then look through from the outside. I don't think you'll see any light.
The problem with your light test is, because of the close proximity of the CAC and the radiator, (in mine, the two are about 2-3" apart) you'd be trying to shine light through BOTH the CAC and the radiator. And, just getting a light in there to do that is extremely tough on most of these rear radiator coaches. Due to my fan shroud being extremely close to the engine and, attached to the bottom cross member at the base of the radiator, I almost can't even get my snake lens from my inspection camera in that area, much less any form of a drop light.
Scott
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Old 01-03-2019, 02:54 PM   #27
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Scott,
You may be correct on this. For some reason, I thought I was told that this could be done, by inserting a light in between the fan blades to do this. I realize that the CAC is there too, but air has to flow, so light should be visible to a degree. Possibly a flood light on the exterior of the CAC, and then look into the engine/radiator side might work. BOTTOM LINE: A dirty radiator is a very common overheating problem, due to the fine oil mist and then the dust that is blown through.
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Old 01-03-2019, 05:02 PM   #28
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The CAC is on the lower section of the RAD. Slipping a light directly in front of the fan hub shinning toward the rear is only a quick indicator of blockage. It's a simple means(for those that may not have an inspection camera) to verify blockage, not a fix-all. If you see minimal light then you can be assured the blockage is severe, more so between the RAD/CAC that you cannot see. After removing and cleaning my assembly, it would just about blow the grandchild over. BIG difference in flow. and dropped my air inlet temp 8 degrees. My cleaning was done with a bottle of Dawn, soft scrub brush, hot water, lawn chair and a ice cold beer(3)...............
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