Slobber Tube Maintenance

[ftodaro]

Hello All
I have been lurking here for some time now. I am going into my second year of ownership on my 2001 Itasca 36, 330 cat.


I am planning on doing my own maintenance this year, and going through the coach to establish a base line. I did clean the radiator last year, but not from the inside. When I pulled the top off the motor I was shocked to see how dirty the CAC grill was. Most of the fins were clogged and there was a hard scale of dirt and oil all over the Fan blades.
I gave it a cleaning but will need to repeat the process.

I have been reading the threads regarding the Slobber tube. I am going to do the catch canister treatment, vs just extending the tube.


My question is, I have read some material that you should remove the breather that the slobber tube connects to. There is an element in there that you can also clean. I have not seen this discussed, and it my be that this is only on the newer units.


Anyone have any thoughts on that?

[Chuck 1935]

I have basically the same thing as you. There was nothing in the slobber tube. I just added a catch can to the end of the slobber tube with a large vent on top. Easy and does it's job.

[1ciderdog]

I put an elbow at the bottom of the tube and added enough hose to extend to the rear bumper where I added another elbow and attached a small plastic bottle. Painted the bottle black but it's still noticeable. It is easy to remove and clean at that location.

[MaverickBBD]

You should seriously reconsider extending the breather tube. We did and it made a world of difference.

[ftodaro]

Originally Posted by MaverickBBD

You should seriously reconsider extending the breather tube. We did and it made a world of difference.

I was under the impression that you could either extend the tube or put the catch can canister in place, as a fix?

[MaverickBBD]

Originally Posted by ftodaro

I was under the impression that you could either extend the tube or put the catch can canister in place, as a fix?

You are correct. IMO the extended tube is the better of the options. I recall reading a while ago of back pressure issues with the basin option.

[ftodaro]

After going back and reading several posts about the slobber tube issue, I think I am going to do a combination of both. I am going to extend the tube to the rear stone guard well under the radiator and at the end of it mount a bottle with steel wool and holes in it to breath. That should have it covered.

Now to my following thought, I have to get back in there to clean the CAC, I am going to use Gunk's engine cleaner, I saw a post that it may be more effective than Simple Green. I really have a heavy build up.

While I am in there, is there any risk of doing the top of the motor, and staying off of the electrical components mounted above the motor? I might as well do it all if no risk of damage??

[rver98]

I would clean as much as possible on your engine also. I cut a hole in the top of my shroud to access the rear of the CAC and radiator. It works great! For my added (pleasure) I connect my garden hose to my house water heater, giving me about 120 degree water to wash off the SG.
More information here:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f26/rear-...ng-163541.html

Good luck

[wb7auk]

Frank,

Simple Green HD PRO is the one to use, mixed for heavy duty jobs.
Also where the slobber tube connects to the valve cover held on by one bolt
is where the filter should be inside that connection piece.

[Jim2]

You should also verify that your oil dip stick is calibrated correctly for only 19 qts. back in the early 2000's Cat changed the recommended oil capacity for C7 in RV service from the original 22 qts to 19 qts. Many of the dip sticks, which are supplied by the chassis mfg, not Cat, were left at 22 qts. Those extra 3 qts will cause excessive blowby out the slobber tube, significantly increasing the oil mist onto the CAC/Rad and your toad.

[ftodaro]

Thanks for the replies. I am planning on cutting a hole in the fan shroud also. I went to buy the supplies for that tonight. I have seen posts of folks using a power washer on the hardware, I have a pretty powerful pressure washer so i think i am going to stay with the garden hose for now and see how we do.

On the dip stick, I plan on confirming with Cat I have the 19 qt set up and then change the oil, and mark my stick accordingly. I can see how people make mistakes or more correctly are given misinformation.

[ftodaro]

Originally Posted by Jim2

You should also verify that your oil dip stick is calibrated correctly for only 19 qts. back in the early 2000's Cat changed the recommended oil capacity for C7 in RV service from the original 22 qts to 19 qts. Many of the dip sticks, which are supplied by the chassis mfg, not Cat, were left at 22 qts. Those extra 3 qts will cause excessive blowby out the slobber tube, significantly increasing the oil mist onto the CAC/Rad and your toad.

Jim you are correct but I called Cat today and just want to point out, to new guy like me this stuff can be confusing. I do not have a C-7 I have a 3126, I called Cat today with my S/N they confirmed that my 3126 is 22qts.

The guy told me only the C-7 is recommended for 19 as the C-7 had a specific blow by issue. He said it would not happen with my 3126.

I am only posting this not because you gave wrong information, just did not want to confuse anyone, that my 2001 Itasca is a 3126 22 Qt motor.

Thanks.

[Alphuse]

Originally Posted by 1ciderdog

I put an elbow at the bottom of the tube and added enough hose to extend to the rear bumper where I added another elbow and attached a small plastic bottle. Painted the bottle black but it's still noticeable. It is easy to remove and clean at that location.

Were do you get the hose that is big enough to fit this tube?

[NHRA225]

Be careful adding bends and elbows as you want the hose least restrictive as possible.
Installed this back in 2000
>