|
|
03-11-2018, 11:26 AM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Where I park
Posts: 294
|
Turbo temps
After driving for several hours and stopping, I monitor the temps of my tires and bearings while in general check my coach and toad. I have been checking my turbo with an inferred temperature gun. Also monitor my intake air with a scan d which runs about 115* at air temp at about 60* outside. In the first minute of getting outside to spot check the turbo above the outside batteries, it starts at about 375 to 400* and after about 4 minutes of idle will drop to almost 200*. (I usually high idle)(coach water temp 188*) (((With air temps between 90*+ the first reading will be close to 500*))
Do these temps seem to be inline to you?
2004 C7 350cat
Tires about 25* over ambient temp
Transmission about 135* normal driving Hillbilly Interstate
Set cruse at 58 to 60mph
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
03-11-2018, 02:02 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
|
In general, those numbers don't sound out of line. Problem is, the exact temperature readings can vary with location. The turbo takes in outside air and compresses it, raising it's temperature, then runs it through the inner cooler. The turbo also takes exhaust gases from the exhaust manifold before they go out the muffler/exhaust pipe. The infrared thermometer aimed at the exhaust half will be much higher temperature than the compression side.
It's good that you use a fast idle cool-down period, especially after coming off the highway. I'd drop the idle after a few minutes and finish the shut down at a lower idle. Tire temperatures should be close to each other, the only variation should be explained by sunlight.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
|
|
|
03-11-2018, 02:04 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS
Posts: 2,752
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBDTN
After driving for several hours and stopping, I monitor the temps of my tires and bearings while in general check my coach and toad. I have been checking my turbo with an inferred temperature gun. Also monitor my intake air with a scan d which runs about 115* at air temp at about 60* outside. In the first minute of getting outside to spot check the turbo above the outside batteries, it starts at about 375 to 400* and after about 4 minutes of idle will drop to almost 200*. (I usually high idle)(coach water temp 188*) (((With air temps between 90*+ the first reading will be close to 500*))
Do these temps seem to be inline to you?
2004 C7 350cat
Tires about 25* over ambient temp
Transmission about 135* normal driving Hillbilly Interstate
Set cruse at 58 to 60mph
|
What you need to get an accurate temperature is a Pyrometer before the turbo. There are several Exhausts Gas Temperature gages available (EGT).
The problem time can be when you are pulling hills. If you see hi temps you can adjust by lifting on the throttle or down shifting to reduce load or a combo.
Yes it is good to let your turbo cool before you shut down so you don't coak the oil in the bearing passages in the turbo and clog them up.
Bill
__________________
2008 Newmar Mountain Aire
450 HP Cummins ISM 4000MH Allison Trans.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a Blue Ox tow bar.
|
|
|
03-11-2018, 02:10 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Foretravel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Home is Where WE PARK IT...
Posts: 6,056
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308
What you need to get an accurate temperature is a Pyrometer before the turbo. There are several Exhausts Gas Temperature gages available (EGT).
The problem time can be when you are pulling hills. If you see hi temps you can adjust by lifting on the throttle or down shifting to reduce load or a combo.
Yes it is good to let your turbo cool before you shut down so you don't coak the oil in the bearing passages in the turbo and clog them up.
Bill
|
ISSPRO Pyrometers are what I have used for many years on an 18 wheeler.
The temp sensor (thermocouple) mounted on the exhaust side of the turbo..(NOT the "hot side" turbo to engine)....(Diesel engine with turbo) pulling hard you should try to keep the temp under 900 deg.
and Yes cool down for a minute or three is strongly recommended..
__________________
Retired truckdriver,
'02 Foretravel... "This Shack will do"
being pushed by an '06 Scion xB
SKP's of Box Elder, South Dakota
|
|
|
03-11-2018, 05:22 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS
Posts: 2,752
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesore
ISSPRO Pyrometers are what I have used for many years on an 18 wheeler.
The temp sensor (thermocouple) mounted on the exhaust side of the turbo..(NOT the "hot side" turbo to engine)....(Diesel engine with turbo) pulling hard you should try to keep the temp under 900 deg.
and Yes cool down for a minute or three is strongly recommended..
|
Yes that is how some people use to do it. It is now considered best practice to mount your Pyrometer where the heat is, on the exhaust manifold before the turbo. I had an article where they did test with probes in both places. The hot side would be as much as 500* hotter than the exhaust side.
Bill
__________________
2008 Newmar Mountain Aire
450 HP Cummins ISM 4000MH Allison Trans.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a Blue Ox tow bar.
|
|
|
03-11-2018, 06:12 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,447
|
All look normal.
|
|
|
03-11-2018, 08:02 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,374
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBDTN
After driving for several hours and stopping, I monitor the temps of my tires and bearings while in general check my coach and toad. I have been checking my turbo with an inferred temperature gun. Also monitor my intake air with a scan d which runs about 115* at air temp at about 60* outside. In the first minute of getting outside to spot check the turbo above the outside batteries, it starts at about 375 to 400* and after about 4 minutes of idle will drop to almost 200*. (I usually high idle)(coach water temp 188*) (((With air temps between 90*+ the first reading will be close to 500*))
Do these temps seem to be inline to you?
2004 C7 350cat
Tires about 25* over ambient temp
Transmission about 135* normal driving Hillbilly Interstate
Set cruse at 58 to 60mph
|
Your Good To Go. Nothing to Worry About
__________________
2000 42' BEAVER MARQUIS AMETHYST w/tag 2 SLIDES CAT C12 425 hp SOLD.........
2014 Tiffin Allegro Bus 37AP
|
|
|
03-11-2018, 08:03 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Foretravel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Home is Where WE PARK IT...
Posts: 6,056
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308
Yes that is how some people use to do it. It is now considered best practice to mount your Pyrometer where the heat is, on the exhaust manifold before the turbo. I had an article where they did test with probes in both places. The hot side would be as much as 500* hotter than the exhaust side.
Bill
|
Correct.. HOWEVER..Those have not have an end of the thermocouple melt and fall off...directly into the turbo and then into engine...only took once for me to go back to the old school thinking.
(and there is about a 300 deg difference from the hot to the cold side of the turbo,so you just do the mental math....)
__________________
Retired truckdriver,
'02 Foretravel... "This Shack will do"
being pushed by an '06 Scion xB
SKP's of Box Elder, South Dakota
|
|
|
03-11-2018, 08:16 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 459
|
Saddlesore, you have got me to thinking, I installed my probe the same way on my MotorHome the same as I did on the tractors I had, before the turbo. That was the way the directions said to mount it. Now after hearing about the thermo couple melting, I may remount the one on the MH, because the C-9 in the MH has been at 1400 degrees a number of times, and I must tell you it is quite unsettling.
__________________
'05 Monaco Beaver 400 Quad SLD 400hp C-9 Caterpillar
2014 Grand Cherokee, Limited, diesel
Katie-Doberman Pinscher, Tigger, yellow Tabbycat.
|
|
|
03-12-2018, 08:19 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS
Posts: 2,752
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Correct.. HOWEVER..Those have not have an end of the thermocouple melt and fall off...directly into the turbo and then into engine...only took once for me to go back to the old school thinking.
(and there is about a 300 deg difference from the hot to the cold side of the turbo,so you just do the mental math....)
|
I have never had a problem with a probe melting when you use a correct for application probe.
Adding 300* is fine but now ware near accurate. Changes in your air fuel mix can drive your EGT 400-500* higher than your EGT after the turbo. So you are seeing 900 after the turbo and add 300 you think it is good at 1200* but if it is higher like the 4-500* you are in reality hitting 1300* or 1400* and not knowing it.
Bill
__________________
2008 Newmar Mountain Aire
450 HP Cummins ISM 4000MH Allison Trans.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a Blue Ox tow bar.
|
|
|
03-12-2018, 10:41 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Foretravel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Home is Where WE PARK IT...
Posts: 6,056
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308
I have never had a problem with a probe melting when you use a correct for application probe.
Adding 300* is fine but now ware near accurate. Changes in your air fuel mix can drive your EGT 400-500* higher than your EGT after the turbo. So you are seeing 900 after the turbo and add 300 you think it is good at 1200* but if it is higher like the 4-500* you are in reality hitting 1300* or 1400* and not knowing it.
Bill
|
What ever opens your pocket book..
You get up that high of temps your oil and water temps will be climbing...time to back out of it...
The last few generations of electronic controlled engines the computers will reduce the fuel pressure and or other ways to "protect" the engine...That is why most of them do not have a pyrometer.
I'll just stand by my experiences...
__________________
Retired truckdriver,
'02 Foretravel... "This Shack will do"
being pushed by an '06 Scion xB
SKP's of Box Elder, South Dakota
|
|
|
03-13-2018, 11:03 AM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS
Posts: 2,752
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesore
What ever opens your pocket book..
You get up that high of temps your oil and water temps will be climbing...time to back out of it...
The last few generations of electronic controlled engines the computers will reduce the fuel pressure and or other ways to "protect" the engine...That is why most of them do not have a pyrometer.
I'll just stand by my experiences...
|
This once more shows you are just talking. I can demonstrate that you can have dangerous EGT temps and the water temp doesn't move. Keep in mind you have to heat all the water before it shows an increase on the gage.
You keep believing what ever you want, I don't have to pay for your repairs.
Bill
__________________
2008 Newmar Mountain Aire
450 HP Cummins ISM 4000MH Allison Trans.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a Blue Ox tow bar.
|
|
|
03-13-2018, 11:57 AM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 459
|
Wildbill is right, I know this from experience. We had a tractor that would blow the engine, and the water temp never read anything but normal. The other tractors we had the water temp never got off the normal reading, even though the pyrometer was showing it was working very hard. The Beaver I'm driving now shows the pyrometer at extreme temps but the water temp is normal. The only true way to know how hard an engine is working is by the EGT.
__________________
'05 Monaco Beaver 400 Quad SLD 400hp C-9 Caterpillar
2014 Grand Cherokee, Limited, diesel
Katie-Doberman Pinscher, Tigger, yellow Tabbycat.
|
|
|
03-13-2018, 12:10 PM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Foretravel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Home is Where WE PARK IT...
Posts: 6,056
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308
This once more shows you are just talking. I can demonstrate that you can have dangerous EGT temps and the water temp doesn't move. Keep in mind you have to heat all the water before it shows an increase on the gage.
You keep believing what ever you want, I don't have to pay for your repairs.
Bill
|
Whatever..You Win..YAY for you.
I speak from 50 years and over 5 million miles under my butt. owning 18 wheelers, both stock and not so stock engines, hauling high/wide & heavy and super loads..
Good Day to you.
__________________
Retired truckdriver,
'02 Foretravel... "This Shack will do"
being pushed by an '06 Scion xB
SKP's of Box Elder, South Dakota
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|