Community Forums

dbarton291 · 09-10-2018, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allisonman

Hello,
These are not electronic transmissions unless it is ATEC. It could be a couple things. 1. The modulator might not be adjusted correctly. Most in that year have an Air Modulator and it could be getting worn out. The modulator modulates shifts higher upshifts and lower downshifts. If it is not working correctly, you will have full modulation even when off throttle and your downshift will be too high.
2. you can have the trimmer springs softened up in the valve body by an Allison distributor or dealer. Either is not too big of a job.(I say that with 40 yrs experience, I'm sure it isn't that easy LOL)
Hopefully they can smooth out your shifts for you.
Have a great day!

True! Even the ATEC units have trimmer valves and springs. I wonder how many of us old farts are left that have experimented with softer and stiffer trimmer springs!
All the trimmer valves AT/MT/HT/V are the same diameter. There used to be two different trimmer valves, too. The difference was the diameter of the hole in the bottom. The one with the smaller hole gave softer shifts.

gemert · 09-10-2018, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allisonman

That surprises me about the temp matching the gauge. Were you checking the cooler return line or the to cooler line which would be the hottest oil out of the transmission. Did you see if you are getting a code for high temp? Allison will throw a code at 232f?
I'm also surprised the engine temp is not rising any. Do you have a retarder on your transmission that may be causing the heat?

I checked at the sump/oil pan by aiming the red light on it. No check lights on dash, no codes when I checked fluid level. It has a Jake Brake. I usually downshift at 250 degrees to cool it down. No codes or check lights. It seems to stump everyone I asked. If I slow it cools quickly. If I stop at a rest area or for fuel it will cool quickly. If it rains it will cool quickly. I'm confused. Thanks again for trying to help figure it out.
Jerry

ftodaro · 09-10-2018, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allisonman

I would check and see if any codes are present using your shift tower. Press both arrows at the same time. If you press once, press again and it should say D1-- if it doesn't and says for example D12216 that would be a code 22-16. If you have no codes and are still worried, stop by an Allison distributor or dealer and have them do a Transhealth test with their DOC software. This will tell you the condition of your clutch plates. some charge a fee for this, but we do not. Let me know if you have any codes. Thank you and have a great day!

When i checked it last there were no codes displayed. I will recheck. When I went to my dealer, he wanted me to bring it back when i could reproduce the flair. I have not been back since i am not sure I could produce it on demand. So I assume the "transhealth test would give me a status of the clutch plates, this is what i need. I think he was thinking to reproduce the flair to see if a solenoid or relay was malfunctioning but i think its more of a clutch disk issue maybe.

Allisonman · 09-11-2018, 08:20 AM

Just check allisontransmission.com and they have a search area for service work using your Zip Code.
Have a great day!

Rsponsford · 09-11-2018, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allisonman

Just check allisontransmission.com and they have a search area for service work using your Zip Code.

Have a great day!

Thanks!

Allisonman · 09-11-2018, 08:24 AM

Have you converted the pan and internal filter to a deep version that will hold more oil? If that has been done you can always add an additional air to oil cooler but try the pan first.
Have a great day!

Allisonman · 09-11-2018, 08:25 AM

So true but don't give away our age! LOL

Allisonman · 09-11-2018, 08:28 AM

I would make sure lockup is working correctly. Has your road speed lowered any?
If your lockup is failing, you will be turning the wheels with oil instead of the engine and anytime you use fluid to move through the converter, you will cause heat due to friction.

Allisonman · 09-11-2018, 08:29 AM

Good luck buddy. Let me know!

gemert · 09-11-2018, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allisonman

I would make sure lockup is working correctly. Has your road speed lowered any?
If your lockup is failing, you will be turning the wheels with oil instead of the engine and anytime you use fluid to move through the converter, you will cause heat due to friction.

Allisonman, thanks again and I know you're probably ready to slap me by now. How do I check lockup? Is that the "L" that shows up after the gear obtained indication on the computer readout? If so it does show the "L" when driving. Thanks for patience.
Jerry

RKins · 09-11-2018, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allisonman

Wasn't that an electronic pushbutton shifter trans? If it is, the relay it is showing should say Allison TCM instead of engine. Being wired thru the transmission, you can choose which gear you want the transmission to shift down when the exhaust brake is on. Otherwise it will stay in 6th and that is overdrive which will not slow you down as well.
Thank you and hope all goes well!

Thanks for the reply.

It is a MD3060 tranny with what I think is a 4th gen shifting control - it is push button with a rectangular digital display in 2 columns.

I brought the drawing ahead - see the "Throttle Switch" in the bottom right - are you saying that there isn't a switch and that it should be controlled by the TCM? I'm thinking maybe I have the wrong drawing... My mechanic did say there was no switch yet I did see the transmission seek 2nd gear when I remove my foot, so something was sensing my foot being removed.
Also, if the tranny is the trigger to the relay, is the exhaust brake trigger disabled by the tranny when below a certain speed?

jeanbev · 09-11-2018, 03:09 PM

Fixed it today, disassembled dash cover & found ding ding device, removed ground wire, no more ding ding. coach appear to run okay not instruments warning.

Tks for your assistance.

Della · 09-13-2018, 04:41 PM

I have a 2006 Dutch Star. On my last trip this summer I had the transmission lock in 1st gear on 4 different occasions. I was stopped and then started up a small hill. To get it out of 1st I had to turn the engine off and restart it.
It worked fine until the next time I was stopped on a small hill. Researching on the web I think it is the speed control module that is the culprit. Assuming that is the problem what kind of a cost should i be expecting. I have read some horror stories about being charged 3 or 4 times higher than what it should have cost. I have a little over 50K miles on this unit. I plan on taking it to a Allison dealer but am worried that they will recommend a lot of unnecessary work and I am open to any suggestions from anybody.

Thanks, Phil & Della

RKins · 09-14-2018, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Della

I have a 2006 Dutch Star. On my last trip this summer I had the transmission lock in 1st gear on 4 different occasions. I was stopped and then started up a small hill. To get it out of 1st I had to turn the engine off and restart it.
It worked fine until the next time I was stopped on a small hill. Researching on the web I think it is the speed control module that is the culprit. Assuming that is the problem what kind of a cost should i be expecting. I have read some horror stories about being charged 3 or 4 times higher than what it should have cost. I have a little over 50K miles on this unit. I plan on taking it to a Allison dealer but am worried that they will recommend a lot of unnecessary work and I am open to any suggestions from anybody.

Thanks, Phil & Della

See post #44 for answer. Did you get any code from the transmission display (press up and down arrows at same time - key needs to be in the On position). It's easy to change out yourself. There is a Engine Speed Sensor and a Transmission Speed Sensor - same sensor just one is on the engine side of tranny and the other is on the output side of the tranny.