2007 F-250 6.0 Questions

[jesilvas]

If you got the Bulletproof EGR cooler, I wouldn't burn that investment. Just weld the OEM one.

[broadrun]

Originally Posted by jesilvas

If you got the Bulletproof EGR cooler, I wouldn't burn that investment. Just weld the OEM one.

Good point. Sounds like a plan. I have two 6.0's so it doesn't hurt to have extra parts lying around :-)

[broadrun]

One more thing, since I am replacing the turbo, do I need to replace the oil feed tube and oil drain tube or can I just install new o-rings? Also, my degas bottle looks to have some grime caked to the walls. Can it be cleaned? I only ask this because I saw a video where this guy recommended a new one as well.

I just don't want to waste any money as this has obviously already been an expensive repair.

Thanks.

[jesilvas]

There are TSBs for a new drain tube and HPOP STC. But that's where my knowledge on that stops.

[broadrun]

Guys,

These gaskets/o-rings were included in the EGR & Oil Cooler Replacement Kit. I know where most of these go but I decided to label them to make it easy for folks to help identify them.

1) Intake Gasket #1
2) Intake Gasket #2
3) Oil Cooler to EGR Cooler Hose (not sure which way the metal piece that sticks out at one end points...)
4) Up-Pipe Seal
5) Intake Exhaust Seal
6) Turbo Oil Feed Tube Gasket
7) ?
8) ?
9) ?
10, 11, 12) ?
13) Fatty O-Ring beneath Intake Manifold
14) ?
15) & 16) I think they are for the Turbo Oil Drain Tube (they look like EGR O-Rings though)
17) ?
18) ?

Can anyone identify 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 17 & 18? Also, please correct me if I have anything wrong.

I took the motor apart a while ago and honestly can't remember seeing some of these during the disassembly which is why I am asking.

Thanks again,
Rob

[Fred1609]

I pulled with an 06 6 litre......It had about 55k miles when we bought it and were able to purchase a Ford extended warranty. Our rig is 10k lbs empty. So about 12500 on the road.....The first thing that went on the truck was the high pressure oil pump....Then on our first trip the intercooler cracked......two days later the turbo went.....The following year we had the replacement turbo blow after going over the mountains between Oregon and California....Finally we dumped the truck and bought an 2011 which pulls like a beast......Best advice would be get the EGR delete.....replace the oil cooler because you don't know if the previous owner changed the coolant out regularly.......and before you do any serious pulling get a pyrometer installed....This measures the temp of the gas before it gets to your turbo....preventing a $2000 turbo replacement bill.....The 6 litre has been a problematic engine.....seems some folks go on for ever with it and some have one problem after another......Check out you tube videos for some additional info....Good luck with the pickup.....oh and the last important thing is to leave the engine running after it has pulled hard....let it idle for 3 - 5 minutes allowing the turbo to cool down....I'm not an expert but owning the pickup and doin a lot of reading on forums and watching the youtube videos I learned a lot about the engine......

[RVH.O.G.]

Im on my 3rd 6.0L Power Stroke. My 03 F250 was to small when we got the fifth wheel. The 04 F350 Dually was to big to keep when we got the diesel pusher. I couldn't live without a truck so I found a 03 F350 SRW. No problems so far, I'm glad people bad mouth them. That means i will get my next one cheaper.

[RLM4x4]

been a while since I've been on here. And since I started this thread I thought I would update my 6.0 experience.
It's been great up until 2 months ago. i have 84K miles on it An 07 F250 XLT crew cab.
It started with the heat going out every time i would come to a stop or at idle.
After they replaced the heater core and that didn't help. I took it back and they finally tested the block. Long story short they ended up taking the cab off and replacing the head gaskets. Said egr cooler and everything else looked good. I've had it back about 3 weeks and so far so good but I haven't pulled the fifth wheel yet. I'll let ya know how that goes

[AboutTime]

I am a very new member of iRV2, and this has already become my favorite thread. I own a 2006 6.0 F250 and have had it since 2007. It has been a love/hate relationship - some of the "hate" is due to my own ignorance. I'll reiterate some of what has already been said: Changing the oil and filters (oil and fuel) in a timely manner is critical. Don't use the aftermarket filters. Cetane booster is a must. The EPA has messed up the diesel fuel that these engines need. If you start blowing smoke and have reduced power, make sure the FICM (fuel injection control module) gets checked out during the troubleshooting process. Those can go bad. As others have mentioned, Bullet Proof Diesel (BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0 and 6.4) can be your friend.

My 2006 is currently running like a scalded dog but is not yet towing the new-to-me fifth wheel. At higher outside temperatures (80 degrees plus), I do get the "yellow wrench" warning on the dash after about 30 to 45 minutes of driving. Performance is not affected, there is no smoke, and the factory gauges look normal. I believe that this is oil cooler related... something about a variation between the oil cooler and coolant temperature... and something about the EGR cooler. My mechanic will soon be doing a coolant and transmission fluid job on the truck, so I will get him to look into that. He owns the same year/model F250 as I do and his is running great after 200K+ miles. Mine just hit 114K miles. He has the computer needed to check the codes.

Any suggestions about the "yellow wrench" will be welcomed.

[jesilvas]

Originally Posted by AboutTime

I am a very new member of iRV2, and this has already become my favorite thread. I own a 2006 6.0 F250 and have had it since 2007. It has been a love/hate relationship - some of the "hate" is due to my own ignorance. I'll reiterate some of what has already been said: Changing the oil and filters (oil and fuel) in a timely manner is critical. Don't use the aftermarket filters. Cetane booster is a must. The EPA has messed up the diesel fuel that these engines need. If you start blowing smoke and have reduced power, make sure the FICM (fuel injection control module) gets checked out during the troubleshooting process. Those can go bad. As others have mentioned, Bullet Proof Diesel (BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0 and 6.4) can be your friend.

My 2006 is currently running like a scalded dog but is not yet towing the new-to-me fifth wheel. At higher outside temperatures (80 degrees plus), I do get the "yellow wrench" warning on the dash after about 30 to 45 minutes of driving. Performance is not affected, there is no smoke, and the factory gauges look normal. I believe that this is oil cooler related... something about a variation between the oil cooler and coolant temperature... and something about the EGR cooler. My mechanic will soon be doing a coolant and transmission fluid job on the truck, so I will get him to look into that. He owns the same year/model F250 as I do and his is running great after 200K+ miles. Mine just hit 114K miles. He has the computer needed to check the codes.

Any suggestions about the "yellow wrench" will be welcomed.

The service light is not good. Ford's programming for lights and gauges does not give you a margin for safety as far as temps. When the gauges go too high, it's too late.

You need a good scanner, like a ScanGuage, Auto Enginuity, or the TorquePro app.

[AboutTime]

Originally Posted by jesilvas

The service light is not good. Ford's programming for lights and gauges does not give you a margin for safety as far as temps. When the gauges go too high, it's too late.

You need a good scanner, like a ScanGuage, Auto Enginuity, or the TorquePro app.

Your warning and advice, jesilvas, is duly noted and taken seriously. Back in Jun13, I had a full injector and FICM replacement done in the truck at a Ford dealership. Prior to that, the yellow wrench had never shown its face. On the way back home (close to an hour and half drive) after picking up the truck, the yellow wrench appeared for the first time. Are there any mechanics in here that might see a correlation between the injector/FICM work and the appearance of the yellow wrench?

I have driven that truck for hours (probably out of ignorance) with that light on and the truck ran just like always with no issues. As soon as I stop and shut the truck off, even if only for a couple/few minutes, the light goes away and does not reappear for about another 30-45 minutes into the trip - and only when the outside temperature is about 80 degrees or higher. I have never experienced a loss of power nor has the "limp home" message popped up in the message center. I agree that something is wrong and that light is trying to tell me something. I just don't know what it is but I need to get it figured out before I start towing 88K+ lbs.

[wingnut60]

88k + lbs ?????

[AboutTime]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

88k + lbs ?????

Oops. Fat fingers.

[justafordguy]

X2, the Torque Pro app and a OBD2 adapter is cheap and works awesome for scanning codes. This will tell you why the light is on.