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Old 08-25-2017, 08:54 PM   #1
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Need Tuner for 2008 E450 w/6.0

I would like a tuner for my 2008 E450 w/6.0 diesel. Does anyone know who makes one for this application. My 28' Class C does fairly well on its own but I plan to tow the car and would like to add a little more power and better shifting. I have used one before on a 7.3 and understand the need for gauges and monitoring.
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Old 08-29-2017, 11:03 PM   #2
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I see your rig is similar to mine. Not sure how long you've had it but the 6.0, great engine that it is, does have a learning curve related to maintenance and longevity (an excellent source of info is the 6.0 diesel section on the Ford-Trucks.com forum).


But to your question....I will be doing an EGR delete this summer and from everything I've read, I'll need a tuner to get rid of the check engine light that will likely result from the lack of flow through the EGR. It's too bad I have to spend about 400 U.S. just to do that, as I wasn't really in need of additional gauges (I have a ScanGauge II) and additional tuning wasn't high on my list of mods.
SCT seems to be the 'go-to' tuner for this purpose. I contacted SCT about my engine and they recommended the X4 Programmer for 1996-2014 diesel trucks. They say 'fits most models', so I'm presuming they are flexible in that regard. There are the typical claims of better mileage and more power, and many tunes available.
Good luck. Let me know how you make out, as I'd be interested in hearing about any tuner you end up using. PM me about some of the basic engine mods I've done (or planned) if you're interested.
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:53 PM   #3
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lgcotton,
Not sure how long you've had it or how many miles are on it but using a tuner on a 6.0 is a scary proposition. Knowing the body style and lack of access to the engine, I would think it's probably stock unless someone really dug in to make changes.
If you do some searching on other forums such as FTE or FTZ, you'll find a common theme. No tuners unless you bulletproof it. Primarily, replacing the head gaskets and head bolts with ARP studs. The 6.0 only has 4 head bolts per cylinder vs the 6 bolts in a 7.3.
Too much boost and too much power will quickly lead to blown h/gaskets, etc.
Then you also have the oil cooler issue, egr cooler, and turbo unison ring issues besides.
I pull a TT with triples that's rated at 15,500 lbs. I really don't need more power to climb even stout 6* grades. Even pulling tow car can't slow you down too much.
Read up and be prepared to hear much of the same. Hopefully your a good mechanic because those E bodies are a real challenge.
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Old 08-30-2017, 09:34 PM   #4
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I would agree with Bob that going into tuner territory should be done with a lot of research before hand. One thing you may not be aware of is that the van motors are already 'detuned' due to the compromised position of the cramped engine quarters being difficult to shed heat. Also, trucks tend to be sold on performance numbers (compared to vans) so for sales purposes they have to stretch the trucks as much as is possible (and is why pushing them further is fools territory without the studs etc.).
I've been on FTE for a few years now, and I've yet to read one example of someone tuning a van motor, though I'm sure its done. But for myself, I don't see the need for it and won't be taking the risk. Keeping an eye on the oil cooler and oil/coolant temps is my top priority.
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Old 08-31-2017, 09:38 PM   #5
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One Bob to another...
Very well said.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:53 AM   #6
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Thanks guys for your input. Been studying this issue for months and find the biggest reason for 6.0 failure appears to be related to a bad EGR which allows fluid into the combustion chamber creating too much pressure. In the E-Series the 6.0 is detuned to 235 vs. 325 hp and 440 vs. 570 lb. torque. That's a bunch and why I want a tuner.
To make a long story short and avoid argument, I've done my research and believe the E450 w/6.0 is very capable of more power. Only a couple of companies have programs for this vehicle. I ordered a Hypertech 2.0 2000 which has tunes for diesel towing and has a good reputation. It has 3 settings to chose from and firms up the trans. shifting which really helps when towing. I also ordered a set of gauges to monitor performance and temps. I want to do the EGR delete but that's a difficult undertaking on a van body.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:39 AM   #7
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Hi again,
I'm just about info sharing, so just take it that, but I think there still some issues you should look into further.
First off, there was a new post today on the van section of FTE, from the acknowledged guru on Ford transmissions. Here it is (in response to someone also questioning about van horsepower:


The engines are exactly identical, the software is different.

Other parts of the driveline can't handle 325 HP.



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Secondly, there are actually some 'simpler' ways to do an EGR delete on a van, than even on the truck. I know some would call it not a complete bulletproof method, but its dead simple using the benefit of the doghouse. Simply pull out your up-pipe and weld a SS disc in the small offshoot that goes to the EGR....done. Others have done this, and I'm going to be doing it this month for sure. A better mechanic than me says its actually possible to remove the EGR entirely without removing the passenger side manifold entirely (all in the way you loosen off the top bolts) - and than apparently is the 'best' way to prevent any chance of coolant leaks in the future getting into the intake. I'm gambling by doing the delete of exhaust flow that I'll GREATLY reduce the chance of the EGR leaking coolant down the road.


The only drawback, as with any delete on an '06, is that a code will probably come up due to the lack of flow in the EGR. That code has to be removed with something like an SCT tuner.


And most importantly..GET GAUGES!!


Good luck bro...
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Old 09-04-2017, 01:50 PM   #8
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Yes, get gauges. And do NOT use the more powerful programs--you take the distinct chance of lifting the heads off the block causing an intake gasket leak. Much info on this, and why a 'bulletproofing' of the 6.0/6.4 includes new head stud bolts from ARP.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:28 AM   #9
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I installed the Hypertech 2.0 just over a week ago. Took about an hour to load all three program levels but was easy to follow the display instructions. After setting it to level 2 I drove it to get fuel and test. Immediately noticed the turbo spinning up sooner, quicker response and crisper shifts. Two days later I left for a week long trip with SUV and tow dolly attached. Climbed 7000 ft. in 80 miles with 5 and 6 % grades. The power was impressive, never under 50, mostly 60 - 65mph and I did not push it hard as I only had temporary gauges. My new pillar gauge set just got here so more info after install and tests.
I will offer that info on tuning an E-Series is almost non-existent so this not a recommendation but rather my own findings and experience.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:55 AM   #10
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The feeling of more power/better driving response is almost intoxicating on the 6.0/6.4-and can easily lead to trying out the higher HP tunes--don't do it. I owned an '04 and an '06 350 with tuner on each and each required head gasket repair work--and I used the low tune only.
Just because Ford detuned the E series (still doing the same thing in the cab/chassis models to this day--as does Ram) doesn't mean they are designed to run under load all day long as you will be with the RV aspect. Be careful, and I suggest you read up all you can on what to do when the head gaskets go.
If you haven't already looked at YouTube for advice, check this out:
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:01 AM   #11
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Thanks for your input Wingnut as well as the videos. Trying to minimize the effect of mods. and still realize some gain. My take is that diesel motors are workhorses and not race horses. Take care of them and they will take care of you.
When I bought the RV I neglected my research and did not know that the 6.0 was detuned in the E-Series. Needless to say I was disappointed. So, make it breath (exhaust and K&N) and give it a modest tune. Been wrenching since the 60's, diesels since the mid 90's. Compared to the 7.3 the 6.0 is a mechanics nightmare. However, I like a challenge and time will tell.
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:03 AM   #12
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It has been written by shops that know--the 6.0 is a good engine when properly upgraded with studs/egr coolers/etc.
The problem with most of these new pickup diesels is the horsepower/torque race to have the 'Best-in-Class' and having to deal with the emissions dictated by the EPA. They all run hotter and in my mind, heat degrades the life of an engine.
If you do it right, I think you will like how it runs/pulls--'course, you could always get a newer C with the 6.7 that gets away from the Navistar design....
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:59 PM   #13
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Thanks for keeping the forum updated LGCotton!.....good information for van owners. I was curious about how easy it is to switch from say 'tow level' back to stock or vice-versa. Is this a push-bottom on the fly kind of switch over, or is it more involved? I've never had any experience with tuners.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lgcotton View Post
I installed the Hypertech 2.0 just over a week ago. Took about an hour to load all three program levels but was easy to follow the display instructions. After setting it to level 2 I drove it to get fuel and test. Immediately noticed the turbo spinning up sooner, quicker response and crisper shifts. Two days later I left for a week long trip with SUV and tow dolly attached. Climbed 7000 ft. in 80 miles with 5 and 6 % grades. The power was impressive, never under 50, mostly 60 - 65mph and I did not push it hard as I only had temporary gauges. My new pillar gauge set just got here so more info after install and tests.
I will offer that info on tuning an E-Series is almost non-existent so this not a recommendation but rather my own findings and experience.
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Old 09-16-2017, 12:52 AM   #14
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The Hypertech reprograms your vehicle. You plug it in and it reads and stores the PCM information. It then allows you to load one of three power levels plus trans. program into the vehicle. Once it loads the new program you disconnect it and put it away until you want to change programs or reinstall the stock program. Takes about 20 minutes. This is the third vehicle I've used Hypertech and never a problem. However, my first upgrade is always better exhaust and air filter. Make sure it can breath before you do anything else.
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