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Old 01-11-2008, 07:43 AM   #1
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OK, I've been cruising thses pages since the first of the year. I've picked up references on three topics but haven't nailed down solid answers. They are probably here, but I haven't located them.

Framing: My U-Haul box truck walls and roof are comprised of 1/2 inch Fiberglass Reinforced Plywood (FRP) The actual support system, corners and roof trim are fairly sturdy.

Should I add framework to the inside of the walls and ceiling with 2x2s or 2x4s, wood or galvanized, if 2x4s - do I install them usint the 2 inch thickness or the 4 inch thickness?

Special tape: A local RV shop told me you need to "glue-it and screw-it" or you'll be fixing it later. I have picked up on a referenceto a "super tape" and have tried to locate a link or e-mail for a source. Can anyone help?

Is there a book, known in the truck conversion community know as the "Bible of Truck Conversions"? Can I get it through Barnes and Noble or is there a special source?

Thanks,

Forbey
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Old 01-11-2008, 07:43 AM   #2
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OK, I've been cruising thses pages since the first of the year. I've picked up references on three topics but haven't nailed down solid answers. They are probably here, but I haven't located them.

Framing: My U-Haul box truck walls and roof are comprised of 1/2 inch Fiberglass Reinforced Plywood (FRP) The actual support system, corners and roof trim are fairly sturdy.

Should I add framework to the inside of the walls and ceiling with 2x2s or 2x4s, wood or galvanized, if 2x4s - do I install them usint the 2 inch thickness or the 4 inch thickness?

Special tape: A local RV shop told me you need to "glue-it and screw-it" or you'll be fixing it later. I have picked up on a referenceto a "super tape" and have tried to locate a link or e-mail for a source. Can anyone help?

Is there a book, known in the truck conversion community know as the "Bible of Truck Conversions"? Can I get it through Barnes and Noble or is there a special source?

Thanks,

Forbey
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Old 01-11-2008, 10:35 AM   #3
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The goal is to turn it into a vegtetable oil burning toy hauler for our mtorcycle cruisers.

We can head to a target part of the country, unload the bikes and tour in any direction we want and come back to base cammp at night.

Forbey
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:59 AM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Forbey:
...I have picked up on a referenceto a "super tape" and have tried to locate a link or e-mail for a source. Can anyone help?... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The tape that I'm familiar with is made by 3M and is call VHB. A Google search revealed this info: 3M VHB Tape and Transportation uses of VHB
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Old 01-12-2008, 08:14 PM   #5
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You might also look at sikaflex 252 urthane bonding adhesive. Go to http://austinhardware.com/
Click on "find" & type 252 in the space. IMO it's better than the 3M tape and may be less expensive. I've used both & wouldn't use tape again,...ever!
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Old 01-13-2008, 12:32 PM   #6
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Thanks for the sources. I'm looking into taping, then screwing. I wouldn't use just tape.

I converted a panel van once and used liquid nails. The wooden structures lasted, but the vehicle was heavier then I would have liked it. The liquid nails held as long as I had it!

Jay
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:29 AM   #7
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Trying to keep this moving.

The walls in this white elephant ar made of 1/2 inch FRP. I want to reinforce the walls. I've considered galvanized 2x4, but I think they will transmit hot and cold straight through the walls. Wood 2X2s or 2x4a seem the next option. If 2x2s will they be sturdy enough? If 2x4s, do I install them using the 2 inch thickness or the 4 inch? THe 4 inch would be less likely to give, but then I would be giving up space to the walls.

Sounds like I'm talking my way through this.

2x2s or 2x4s, bith used on the 2 inch (actually 1 & 1/2 inch) thickness. 2x2s are half the weight, but will they provide the support I need fo overhead cabinets? Would it be feasible to use 2x2s with 2 or 3 horizontal stringers for attaching OH cabinets and lower wall-attached cabinets?

Jay
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:54 AM   #8
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Forbey, yes to your last questions. Renegade does that, but the studs and stringers are not structural, they are only to mount finished interior wall material & cabinets and to provide a gap for insulation. Renegade has 5/8" FRP, so some extra structure probably will help with your 1/2" walls. Renegade staples the studs into the FRP, I think you may need an alternate or additional way to attach the studs with the 1/2" FRP, Liquid Nails should work nice. Be sure and seal any penetrations through the FRP- this is a super strong wall, but water intrusion can cause delamination.

Another comment- if you don't have air ride rear suspension, try to convert it.

Good Luck with your project!!

Bob
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:32 AM   #9
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Thanks, Bob!

My main purpose for the added framing is for attaching base and wall cabinets and other wall mounted furniture.

I'm looking at using the brackets provided by U-Haul for the horizontal tie-down rails. If this works I won't have to breach the FRB any further. I probably will stick to the Liquid Nails, you get that stuck to your skin you're better off removing the skin (OUCH!)

Construction should begin shortly after the first of February. Framing and the vegetable oil conversion kit are first up. I'm still looking for a reliable RV graveyard so I can obtain a door and some windows. That should be item #3. Wiring and plumbing should be relatively simple as #4.

Illinois classifies thias as a Class H truck. Registration is $561 a year. But, if I install 4 of the 6 items Illinois recognizes as belonging in an RV then registration drops to $103. So I have until June 1st to get the majority of the work done. Then it's on to finishing details.

For those looking for Happi-Jac lifting beds, I'm close to finding a source for buying them, since Happi-Jac does not sell them to the public.

Back to work,

Jay
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:15 AM   #10
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Jay, see links below for surplus:

http://www.rvsurplussalvage.com/cata...ategory_id=183

http://www.timberman.com/salvage.htm

http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/index.php


Bob
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:56 PM   #11
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Thanks for the links. They've got some items I'm looking for and some that have given me some ideas.

Jay
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:07 PM   #12
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Any progress? I have converted a Uhaul truck into a toy hauler as well! I sistered up two 2x4's and through bolted them through the truck box, ceiling to floor. They made a great mounting point for over head cabinets as well as added extra reinforcement for the sides. I wanted to reduce flex as much as possible so I did not have to worry about flexing of the windows or door we cut into the box:


View of the living area:




Toy hauler area:



One jeep iside, and one behind:




Also use to haul a Solo VEE


7.3 ltr diesel. Hot and cold water, full workshop etc.. A BLAST to build
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:04 PM   #13
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Been a while since I checked in.

rjdhomes & snookwheel, thanks for all the tips. Snookwheel, I've been checking out your hauler on Pirate4x4, nice job. What, if anything, did you do to reinforce the Mom's Attic for use as a bed. The specs say the limit is 500 pounds, My wife and I combined come close to that, so I need to either use it as storage or extra sleeping quarters for grand kids. We plan on using the whole box for living quarters with the master bedroom doubling as motorcycle storage. I'm still fighting with the frame questions. I don't want to lose to much in space, but the 2x4s fastened to the wall at the 2" plane would provide the least amount of flexing and therefore the most stability. Not sure.

With all the Pirate4x4 photos of vehicles parked inside the trucks the floor looks plenty strong enough.
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:06 PM   #14
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Sorry, I forgot to respond. No progress to date. We parked the truck for use as a storage facility fot the Marine Corps Reserve Toys For Tots campaign in 2009, so it has been full of toys. It is now back on the road and I hope to start working on it ASAP.

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