Renegade 2008

[VCD]

Just purchased a 2008 Renegade 2610 I know in my old class A if the engine battery was dead you could use the house battery to start - is that set up in these?

[tgdameron]

Not sure on that model and year. Mine is 2016. Call Renegade customer service with your build number, the "Kxxxx", and they can give you a definitive answer.

[Usnret05]

Any pictures of your ikon

[VCD]

Thanks - I will call renegade, below is a couple pic's, one outside and one inside. It has a 10' Garage 515 Detroit on a Columbia chassis - great truck.

[Ed S]

My switch is with the front slide extend-retract switch. I have only used it when the house batteries were drained to far to fire up the gen. Not sure if it works in reverse never had the need to find out.

[VCD]

Originally Posted by Ed S

My switch is with the front slide extend-retract switch. I have only used it when the house batteries were drained to far to fire up the gen. Not sure if it works in reverse never had the need to find out.

I see the one that says Emergency Generator start and assume that is the one - thanks, good to know.

[Bob86ZZ4]

Beauty coach there! As to your question. To start that big Detroit the starter needs a lot of amps. You should have at least 3, more likely 4 chassis batteries for the truck (separate from the house batteries). And the cable from the batteries to the starter is about a 2/0 size. Where are the house batteries located? If they are right next to the chassis batts then theoretically you could tie them into the chassis batts for a start. There is going to have to be a HUGE relay to handle the amps that starter is going to draw too. If they are some distance away you are going to have to have even a larger cable to tie them over to the starter system. If you used the same, or smaller, gauge you're risking heating up or burning up that cable. Most builders (and I'm sure Renegade) have some wiring system to allow you to tie all the batteries together. This is mostly for charging them all up while rolling down the road, or hooked up to shore power (thereby powering your converter/charger). You would usually not want all the batteries tied together when boondocking because you could run everything down and not get the engine started. The generator will be wired to either the chassis or the house batteries for starting. You should figure out which. If it is started with the house batteries you're going to want to make sure you don't run those down too much when boondocking to get the generator started. My generator is wired to the chassis batteries. When I see my house batteries getting too low I can fire up the generator and that powers on the converter/charger to charge up the house batteries.

[VCD]

Originally Posted by Bob86ZZ4

Beauty coach there! As to your question. To start that big Detroit the starter needs a lot of amps. You should have at least 3, more likely 4 chassis batteries for the truck (separate from the house batteries). And the cable from the batteries to the starter is about a 2/0 size. Where are the house batteries located? If they are right next to the chassis batts then theoretically you could tie them into the chassis batts for a start. There is going to have to be a HUGE relay to handle the amps that starter is going to draw too. If they are some distance away you are going to have to have even a larger cable to tie them over to the starter system. If you used the same, or smaller, gauge you're risking heating up or burning up that cable. Most builders (and I'm sure Renegade) have some wiring system to allow you to tie all the batteries together. This is mostly for charging them all up while rolling down the road, or hooked up to shore power (thereby powering your converter/charger). You would usually not want all the batteries tied together when boondocking because you could run everything down and not get the engine started. The generator will be wired to either the chassis or the house batteries for starting. You should figure out which. If it is started with the house batteries you're going to want to make sure you don't run those down too much when boondocking to get the generator started. My generator is wired to the chassis batteries. When I see my house batteries getting too low I can fire up the generator and that powers on the converter/charger to charge up the house batteries.

Yup, pretty much what I thought. We do have 4 batteries for Chassis and 4 for house. The house batteries are in the compartment closest to the chassis, I have been trying to review all the manuals that came with it to see what is set where (not all that helpful in some cases). I particularly like the one that says "press the button on the left of the control panel" which is great if you can find the control panel it is talking about... There is an "Emergency Generator Start" which I assume would pull from the Chassis to start if the house batteries were too low. Overall love the truck, it is in great condition other than some maintenance and general clean up - like pressure washing engine and just making sure all is serviced and cleaned. At some point we will add solar to it and maybe do a little customizing of the interior for the DW but very happy - been researching these for a while.

I do have a question about the tires, I know for RV's typically you replace them every 6 years regardless of tread, but I have read that with these Truck tires that is not necessarily the case? any insight appreciated. Safety is a main reason for my going with a truck conversion and tires are a big part of safety.

[Bob86ZZ4]

My truck was always stored inside, temperature controlled. I replaced my drives when they were about 10 years old. They still had tons of tread. Just figured I should replace them. I had replaced the steers at about 8 years because they were mis-matched and one started to wear funny.

[38Chevy454]

Originally Posted by VCD

I do have a question about the tires, I know for RV's typically you replace them every 6 years regardless of tread, but I have read that with these Truck tires that is not necessarily the case? any insight appreciated. Safety is a main reason for my going with a truck conversion and tires are a big part of safety.

I agree that the 10 years is what I was told at truck tire shop. Steer axle is really the bigger concern, the rear axle(s) tend to be lighter loading, especially with two rear axles like you have. Since the majority of the T/C will age out before the tread gets low, just keep an eye on sidewalls for cracks, chunks of tread missing, funny wear patterns, and figure on 10 years is good for tire life. That allows you to save up the money since you have 8 rear tires and 2 steer tires.

Nice looking Renegade.

[VCD]

Originally Posted by 38Chevy454

I agree that the 10 years is what I was told at truck tire shop. Steer axle is really the bigger concern, the rear axle(s) tend to be lighter loading, especially with two rear axles like you have. Since the majority of the T/C will age out before the tread gets low, just keep an eye on sidewalls for cracks, chunks of tread missing, funny wear patterns, and figure on 10 years is good for tire life. That allows you to save up the money since you have 8 rear tires and 2 steer tires.

Nice looking Renegade.

Great thanks to all for the response. I had read 10 years for truck tires just wanted a confirmation. The steer tires are new and were just replaced last year so - good to go. Thanks again for the help.

[grassy]

Must be the climate.. I have been told that 5-7 (max) years is the change date..I think it is what you are comfortable with and if there is any cracking...they are kind of important..

[VCD]

Originally Posted by grassy

Must be the climate.. I have been told that 5-7 (max) years is the change date..I think it is what you are comfortable with and if there is any cracking...they are kind of important..

I think it is the type of tire, for standard tires 5-7 but since these are made for the Semi-Trucks they are made to haul many many miles and can go 10 years - at least that is my understanding. Definitely depends on the condition of the tire and where the rig is stored - ours was inside a building without sunlight deteriorating the tires.

[grassy]

Originally Posted by VCD

I think it is the type of tire, for standard tires 5-7 but since these are made for the Semi-Trucks they are made to haul many many miles and can go 10 years - at least that is my understanding. Definitely depends on the condition of the tire and where the rig is stored - ours was inside a building without sunlight deteriorating the tires.

Mine are 22.5s.

Talking to a manufacture rep, I was told that is its not so much the UVs that kill our tires..it is the non use.

"The anti-aging chemicals used in the rubber compounds are more effective when the tire is "exercised" on a frequent basis. The repeated stretching of the rubber compound actually helps resist cracks forming. The tires used on vehicles that are driven infrequently, or accumulate low annual mileage are more likely to experience cracking because long periods of parking or storage interrupt "working" the rubber."

If storing inside..this will help "If you have to store your vehicle for long periods of time, ideally store it in a climate-controlled garage, keep the tires inflated to the manufacturer’s recommendations, store it with boards under the tires and check the air pressure at least once a month."

Regardless, I have 2 classic cars and tires are a bugger...I used to go one step farther and take all the weight off the tires..

My tires look great..and they are being replaced next week.

Wish there was a better solution.

Cheers..

Ps - sweet rig...