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Old 07-11-2016, 12:41 PM   #1
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Ford Cargo Van Conversion

Well the conversion project is under way no turning back got rid of roll door(sold) and removed track and hardware. removed e-track and plywood. Went through checked and secured cargo decking with 1/4-20 deck screws. I rented a deck sander and went over whole floor to insure flatness before I installed new sub floor with a layer of 30# felt between the two. I stained (weathered look) and applied 2 coats of polyurathrene so it will be protect while I do my build ends. I'm firing in the back and will install a shorten 36x80 timely door (picture will follow). I took the 1x6 that were inside box and ripped down to attach to snap joints to give me 1.5 walls for insulation 9.5R in process.

Ford 97 E-SuperDuty (E450 176WB) 17 ft. box, 4.56 gears
V-10 under 1500 miles on factory crate
To my understanding this would be call a 26 foot bumper to bumper
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:01 PM   #2
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Have you seen this UHaul cargo conversion?

He did a hauler/living quarters setup, but some of his ideas may transfer over.
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Old 07-12-2016, 11:43 AM   #3
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tderonne, yes I've seen it. The differents is my truck started it's life as a cut away chassis with a alumni. commercial cargo box built on it. Notice the 12"OC snap joint panels (no rivets) when I start cutting for window and vents it will maintain it's rigidity My plans are already drawn up both on paper and in my mind. I've layed floor plan out in tape and yes there will be adjustments. First one my murphy bed will come in contact with counter top in down position. I'm hoping to have a first class Class C when completed. I have about 80% plus of materials.
My layout and construction Ideas come from a combination of Class C motor homes, Tiny Homes and even boats.
I've owned this truck for around 10 years now.
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:40 PM   #4
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Internet is a small place sometimes.

Keep us posted with your progress. I love home builds!
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:58 PM   #5
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Just a little update on the conversion project. After removing the rear roll-up door I had to cut and rise the rear cross member(while keeping the structural strength so I could weld and install a new header for the Timely man door 36x80 I'm using to access the rear deck area(4x7.5). I did have shorten it by five inches. The door will swing out. I do plan on putting a window on the left side of door opening. (Haven’t found it yet). I plan on wrapping the OSB before I put metal siding on (it'll run vertical.
I was able to complete the shower enclosure the water closet stud wall. The back wall of the shower in the closet will be where the Tankless WH will be installed I won't be putting the wall up on the gallery way until I plumb the shower.
Tomorrow going to look at a main RV entry door and some windows. I need a little more light in there. My large work lights just create a lot of heat since I closed off part of the rear.

Progress a little at a time


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Old 07-27-2016, 01:48 PM   #6
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Looks great so far...wish I had the skills and time..
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:15 AM   #7
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Grassy thanks, just finished installing main side entry door and window. Picked up two vertical slider windows 24 x 35 that will go on the drivers and passenger side close to the rear. Iíll be doing the frame work for them but, won't be able to install until new 2" wall clamping rings arrive from Kinro windows. I have 1.75 wall CR now but don't want to drill encase holes are different. Lots of other thing to do.
Will post updated pictures soon.
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Old 07-28-2016, 08:15 AM   #8
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Please.

When you are completed, you may run it through a weigh scale to make sure your tires are up to the job.

I am following with interest.
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:39 PM   #9
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Taking the day off or a least part of it getting accustom to new upgrade to MS Windows 10 (while it was free)
Grassy, factory tires on my E Superduty (E450) are 225x75x16 when post some pictures I'll include some removed wall sections. Hadn't weighed to confirm but the material I removed for windows and door weigh more then the mounting firing frames mainly because the .125 wall thickness and it's snapping joint system of the box construction. Yes it will be a good Idea to check and have V weight but what I've read that a lot of Class C's a close to max weight when built.
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Old 08-01-2016, 03:00 AM   #10
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Well I ended up going out and working for a while. Even though I'm waiting on the clamping rings for the rear sitting area windows (24x35) decided to go ahead an cut out and glue the firing in on the drivers side with a trial fit. Their forecasting rain for Tuesday not sure if I want to tape plastic on the passenger side also. If I do I'll take a picture along with Main entry door installed. The last picture is the cut out material for window. Just want to show box construction. Where the panels snap together (12"OC) I'll be lagging .75 fir strips to give me 1.5 insulation for the walls.
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:27 AM   #11
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Looks great...
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:06 PM   #12
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Hi everyone just a little update. Hung the almost full size(shortens by 5") back door. still have to put tamper plate over striker and drill and tap set screw for door pins. and still have to put window in it(it lighten it up a little (solid core door Here's a couple of 24x35 windows for the rear area when the weather won't allow going out on the deck (4x8w) off the rear. The rear door will be painted just have made a final decision on the metal siding yet (brown, green or white depending on the graphics I go with.
Spent some time going through adding 2x3 board sections in the wall area so I can screw and attach to behind the paneling.(shelves and folding tables.
I still would like to find a narrow kitchen window to the left of the entry door. for food prep and washing dishes
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:27 PM   #13
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Well I dry fitted my shower enclosure and cut a hole in decking for the floor drain. I won't be doing any abs gluing until I install Gray/Black water tank and make sure everything is pointed in the general direction
Still have my eyes open for an over kitchen sink/prep (15x36 or so) area window for 2" walls but moving forward with wall battens for insulation and this will also give me a better idea on running my electrical wires (UF) through the walls and placement of fixtures.
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Old 08-24-2016, 02:21 PM   #14
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Hi everyone took a few days to go RVing just up the coast north and to visit one of my USMC brothers.
Thought I'd post the rear metal panels of my project. I've installed the wood battens for insulation and doing some changes on 110 wiring layout (not much room) oops
Shower set in place will drain penetration through floor still trying to decide on Gray tank size before I plumb. Sizes I can go with on tank 24Wx48L then I have to deal with a box cross member. I'll make some cardboard templates to see what works best. I may go with two smaller ones in series (just a thought). Well plenty of other things to do like go purchase so insul. panels
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