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Old 07-13-2013, 08:05 AM   #1
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GMC 3500 brake squeak

GMC 3500 brake squeak! Heard back brakes squeaking went to GMC dealership (they wanted 1800 plus sales tax to do job, parts at abc auto parts where under 600) and they said had hot spots on rotors and some cracked brakes.
Already changed out pads and rotors on front no cracked pads and so far I've only found one set on back cracked. I"m having real fun trying to get the brake calipers(part that calipers set in cradle) off 1'1/16" nuts even with a cheater.
How important do I need to change out rotors on the back, since braking is more in the front. Course I don't see what or know what hot spots look like!

I figure the person before me didn't realize the truck trailer brakes weren't working and caused the hot spots, which I didn't realize they weren't until after I left dealership after buying Cameo, so part my fault also.

So question do I need to replace rotors on back?
I will change brake pads!
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:15 AM   #2
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I wouldn't put new pads on without doing something with the rotors. Minimum is to take the rotors off and have them re-surfaced. If they're not warped that is. If they are warped (you can have a machine shop check the rotors for that) then minimum is to turn them on a lathe type machine to get them flat again. Problem with doing that is they then get thinner. This will encourage them to warp sooner. I always replace pads and rotors together with new high quality rotors (not cheap china junk). As long as your doing it do it right, I say. If you've got some stuck bolts now they're not going to be any easier to remove later. Might as well get it all apart and do it right. Now, when putting it back together use anti-seize where needed, and locktite where needed. Both will make it much easier to work on the next time you need to do brakes. Good luck.
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob86ZZ4 View Post
I wouldn't put new pads on without doing something with the rotors. Minimum is to take the rotors off and have them re-surfaced. If they're not warped that is. If they are warped (you can have a machine shop check the rotors for that) then minimum is to turn them on a lathe type machine to get them flat again. Problem with doing that is they then get thinner. This will encourage them to warp sooner. I always replace pads and rotors together with new high quality rotors (not cheap china junk). As long as your doing it do it right, I say. If you've got some stuck bolts now they're not going to be any easier to remove later. Might as well get it all apart and do it right. Now, when putting it back together use anti-seize where needed, and locktite where needed. Both will make it much easier to work on the next time you need to do brakes. Good luck.
Bob thanks for your reply I agree. I think it might be the locktite are whats making it hard. Do I need to replace these also? I didn't on the front.
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:46 PM   #4
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The bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket to the hub assembly I like to locktite those on but with just medium locktite. They should come out easily with that. I use anti seize on the sliding surfaces like the pins that the caliper float on, as well as the flat part of the caliper where it's supposed to slide next to the bracket. But you don't want to put a lot there. Don't want it getting on the rotor or pads. I'm not sure what part you're wondering about replacing?
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:09 PM   #5
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I was talking about the locktite, I'll get the medium ones.

Thanks for your help..

I did finally get them off
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