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Old 10-11-2016, 11:33 AM   #1
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Vibration

I have a vibration in the truck when I am going faster than I should

All rotating parts are balanced so best guess is harmonics where the drive shaft angle / universal is out of alignment ?

The solution is to start lowering the rear suspension until it goes away. Apparently, there is a level valve down towards the back of the truck.

Does this sound right ?

Thanks
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:56 AM   #2
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No, it doesn't sound right. First, you admitted you were "going faster than I should." How fast? Then you state, "all rotating parts are balanced." Vibration is one indication that they might not be. A very small imbalance, in a tire, for instance, could magnify with speed. Was balance done static or dynamically?

You mention a leveling valve and perhaps the suspension is out of alignment. Is this a stock suspension or owner added? How much does the stance of the truck vary from stock?

These are just a few things I'd explore and want more information about.
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:57 AM   #3
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That all depends on your truck? Couldn't find it in your profile or sig.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:28 PM   #4
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I have a low mileage '01 Freightliner Sport Chassis.

For me, that would be 65+ MPH... when I haven't put on the pac brake, I sometimes coast up to 70..and at 65, the vibration starts..

6 new tires this spring with bead balancing so the rotating mass is balanced.

I am not sure, nut I think many FL60s didn't come with rear air suspension. From what I understand, there is a valve that controls the air pressure in my rear bags. I wish I could control from my seat ...

The previous owner's trailer was double my rig's weight...

The "vibration " isn't a tire out of balance feeling. Over the winter, I lost a balancing weight off my RAM's driveshaft and the vibration feels just like that.
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassy View Post
I have a low mileage '01 Freightliner Sport Chassis.

I am not sure, nut I think many FL60s didn't come with rear air suspension. From what I understand, there is a valve that controls the air pressure in my rear bags. I wish I could control from my seat ...


The "vibration " isn't a tire out of balance feeling. Over the winter, I lost a balancing weight off my RAM's driveshaft and the vibration feels just like that.


My unit is older than yours and has the rear spring / air bag combo suspension, I have a switch on the dash by which I can add or bleed of air.

Take your unit to a good driveline shop and have them re-balance your driveshaft. These trucks are designed to be 'regional' trucks and it seems they often send them out 'good enough' instead of perfect. In the usual service these trucks see, they rarely care if there's a little vibration.
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Old 10-14-2016, 05:13 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Murf2u View Post
My unit is older than yours and has the rear spring / air bag combo suspension, I have a switch on the dash by which I can add or bleed of air.

Take your unit to a good driveline shop and have them re-balance your driveshaft. These trucks are designed to be 'regional' trucks and it seems they often send them out 'good enough' instead of perfect. In the usual service these trucks see, they rarely care if there's a little vibration.
Thanks. Good to hear of another MDTer.. we seem to be a very silent breed..

I do believe U have the same switch..on the right...with a lock in it so you can completely dump all you air out of your rear springs. I did not know you can lower or raise the air pressure in the rear until..does it reset after you turn off the truck ? I know when I dump, as soon as I start the truck again, they will fill up automatically.

The driveshaft balance as the problem sounds reasonable.. I was told it was dissonance between the shaft and universal..which I had once in a MG years ago. The nearest driveshaft shop is almost 1.5 hours away but worth it. I almost have the truck running the way I want it to

Unfortunately, it goes into storage this month.
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:09 PM   #7
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I’ve had some vibration in our 2012 SC. I installed the Centamatic balancers and it still vibrated. Actually felt like a tire was out of round the front would shake the wheel and truck at 65. Took it back and what we found was the self centering hubs have quite a bit of movement. So we centered the wheel on the hub best we could and tightened it back up and test drove it, no more shake in the front but the peddles or seat would shake so I knew it was the rears. Those are real tuff to center both wheels on the hub. Then a another driver that was having his truck serviced said he had similar trouble and changed out 3 of his lug nut to the lug nuts with the shoulder on them to center the wheel and tire on the hubs. 3 nuts in a triangle will keep the wheel center. I change out the lugs on the rear and the front (3 each) and what a difference. No more vibration even up over 75. 12 lug nuts cost $130ish. Well worth it. They also make a centering tool that you put on over the lugs install the tires and tighten then take off the pins install the nuts and tighten. Now you assembly is centered. I was told that over time these have a tendency to move. So I went with the shoulder lug nuts for alum rims. 6 short for the fronts and 6 long for the rears.
Just an idea.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:09 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Undrpsi View Post
I’ve had some vibration in our 2012 SC. I installed the Centamatic balancers and it still vibrated. Actually felt like a tire was out of round the front would shake the wheel and truck at 65. Took it back and what we found was the self centering hubs have quite a bit of movement. So we centered the wheel on the hub best we could and tightened it back up and test drove it, no more shake in the front but the peddles or seat would shake so I knew it was the rears. Those are real tuff to center both wheels on the hub. Then a another driver that was having his truck serviced said he had similar trouble and changed out 3 of his lug nut to the lug nuts with the shoulder on them to center the wheel and tire on the hubs. 3 nuts in a triangle will keep the wheel center. I change out the lugs on the rear and the front (3 each) and what a difference. No more vibration even up over 75. 12 lug nuts cost $130ish. Well worth it. They also make a centering tool that you put on over the lugs install the tires and tighten then take off the pins install the nuts and tighten. Now you assembly is centered. I was told that over time these have a tendency to move. So I went with the shoulder lug nuts for alum rims. 6 short for the fronts and 6 long for the rears.
Just an idea.
Wow...the truck goes in storage this month but I have my work cut out for me..

I have never heard this before...one of the great things about this forum..

Thanks.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:19 PM   #9
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https://www.midwestwheel.com

SLEEVE NUTS
Standard Applications:
• The Sleeve offers more thread engagement and deeper penetration
• The chamfered nose allows for ease
of wheel centering and installation
The “Sleeve”

• Protects and covers the threads from wear and the elements
• Reduces vibration and the wear and tear on wheel ends
• Fills the gap between the stud and the stud hole and allows the rim to rest on the sleeve • Lengths designed for specific axle applications and wheel configurations
GL-2906
6 mm Sleeve- Designed for Steel - Steers
GL-2919
19 mm Sleeve- Designed for Aluminum - Steers Steel/Steel - Drive
Steel Outer/Alum. Inner - Drives
GL-2928
28 mm Sleeve- Designed for
H.D. Aluminum
Super Single - Wide Base Alum. Outer/Steel Inner - Drives
GL-2939
39 mm Sleeve- Designed for
Dual Aluminum - Drive Axle

Im glad I have put these on mine. I wish Sport Chassis made these standard on there great trucks.
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Old 11-30-2016, 10:28 AM   #10
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Well darn. Thought I cracked this nut.

Went and visited my repair guys and apparently, I have budd wheels with a 2 nut system ? So I guess that are on right..

Back to ride height..the PO 's rig was double weight as mine with a goose neck hitch or driveshaft balance..

Doesn't explaine the front imbalance at 45 mph..

Crud..
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