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Old 07-28-2013, 09:24 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lappir

Thanks for the comments everyone. I have one of the portable induction hot plates. To me it works almost better than the propane, at least with my Wedgewood unit in the Toyhauler. It's been several years since I have used a real gas stove/cooktop, so maybe it's just that the induction is better than my current option.

I do find the induction with a near infinite adjustment range. It will boil water much faster than any of my other options, and it will simmer tomato sauce all afternoon for the perfect pasta sauce with out burning it to the pan. Having both the electric and gas is an option but I plan to do the gas cooking outside with a pull out cooking station similar to the one J&V built. Another reason for using the induction is only the pan heats, not the air around it like you have with an open flame. You take the pan off the source. The source stops and in a very short time the surface is cool enough to touch. Don't try that with your resistance electric burner or your cast grate on your gas burner. Significant marks and possible scars will be left.

Looks like I will have some build competition at SpaceCraft. The topic "you ruined me" (or something like that.) looks like maybe that's why Marsha hasn't responded to the message I sent earlier in the week. I'm going to attempt a contact with them and see what ideas we can share and bounce off one another. I will still keep this thread going too.

Thanks again for all the comments, suggestions and encouragements to think and rethink.

Rod
Induction is amazing, it's nothing like electric, it's far better than gas when it comes to fine tuning the heat, although hope you don't use any copper or aluminum pots.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:13 PM   #44
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Jack Mayer, on 28 Jul 2013 - 08:13, said:
Rod,

I'm also interested in some of your points, and I have some to add, namely:

- basement space # We spoke of it and if I remember correctly there is about 24 inch's of space except where the frame members take there share.

- the availability of basement air conditioning - I know from talking about it that they can do it, but I'm concerned about the number of units and the ducting, and the btu output. In my case I want nothing on the roof....and I mean "nothing". # The only thing they have to put through the roof are the tank vents.

- I want air disc brakes on super singles. Robert has pretty well convinced me that is the way to go because of psi on the ground. With these trailers we can get into some soft ground and any mitigation of that is a good thing.
- pin weight....I know the trailer that I build will be over 30K. Well over. I have had a discussion with Henry and it looks to be no problem at the moment. # We spoke of Super Singles but my tire guy feels the duals would be better in several different ways. Easier to find, you can loose one and still limp off the road. Not so with a SS, Easier to find someone to finish the miles on a pair (0r set) of 22.5's at 5 years than someone needing a SS or two.


- just FYI, I plan on an RV-style hitch (extending down, not flush like a semi
and withthe pin forward,not 3' back from the nose), and an RV front cap. I want this unit to look "RV", not semi. My requirement is to not change out the body on my truck. # May be a deal breaker for you

- an RVIA sticker would be a good thing,but not required. I don't think that is possible with the sq. ft, though. Didn't speak about that.

Spent a couple hours talking with Marsha and Wyatt, looking at CAD drawings and finding out more information on what can and more importantly what cannot be done.

According to Marsha a RV style hitch on any rig weighing in excess of 29,000 lbs is a no go. HAS to be a straight down pin. ( I may have to modify my rear deck).

My thought of having a walk in door in the garage is OK only at the rear. Cannot be placed anywhere else unless it's raised above the framing. Hence a long staircase to get up there.

Just so every one knows I am on a pretty tight budget. This will not have anywhere close to the fancy woodwork and other things that some others have. It will be functional and or required or not included. In a several years I may dress it up a bit, but not right now.

The hard work starts now. Have to measure my vehicle's to make sure they will fit through the door as planned, decide on the final floor plan, pay the 25% start up charge and then the painstaking finalization of all the plans so the build can get started. If I want to be done by November I have to start really soon.

Rod
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:40 PM   #45
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My deck at the rear of my truck can be taken off fairly easily and probably modified to fit differently . The problem is I have it all measured for the front pin that I have on my current trailer. With my plan for a semi type trailer with a straight down pin I won't have enough room between the truck and the box. Glad I am seeing this now and not when we back up to a brand new trailer and cannot pull away. Below is what Jack mentioned about his possible build and requirements on the other site.

Rod

posted Today, 10:21 AM I HAVE to have a pin that is forward and extends straight down with at least 10" clearance to the trailer body. Otherwise it will not work with the truck body. And I am NOT rebuilding the truck body. After talking with Henry I believe we have a solution for continued use of the ET Sr with Super Binkley head. What I can NOT have is a pin that is flush with the trailer body and 3' back like a typical semi. That would cause the entire project to be a non-starter. From talking with Robert I believe that I can get what I need. But I have not talked with Marsha on that point....I'm trying to determine if there are any barriers to the build first, before wasting her time.
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:00 PM   #46
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Got the invoice and the floor plan drawing yesterday. With the above comments from Jack I have replied with questions regarding the potential for getting a "typical" RV pin box with a semi type frame, axles and air brakes. I am OK with the usual front that Marsha does and don't need the RV front. It's extra dead space I guess but I don't want any more length.

Rod
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:38 PM   #47
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I'm not sure what a "typical" RV pin box is....there are so many varieties.

In my case a framework that extends the pin down (straight down) so that there is 8-10" clearance to the RV body is sufficient. It should be no issue to weld this onto a semi trailer. The issue will be the final height of that pin....ideally I'd like a pin that is at 48". But if required I can adapt a "little".

This entire project may not be a "go" because of the pin height and trailer clearance to the truck body.
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:02 PM   #48
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Few pointers here. I probably had the biggest challenge when it comes to the area of the pinbox vs. the deck height. They got the flat floor in the conventional height trailer (16" tires) by totally ignoring the fifth overhang, they didn't bother with any steps up front (inside).

Note how low the front sits off that (no sidewalls) flat deck and that deck sits flat right over the 1 ton truck frame.
Hitch was small commercial Holland, no side to side articulation.

My pin plate was at around 39 inches high, no way was I going to clear the Volvo rails, so I had the 8K axles flipped from underslung to overslung, That's why you see those two pieces of spacer tubing below the Holland, normally the Holland set directly on the deck. That position brought it just above the rails on the Volvo.

Note how close my pinplate is to the underbelly, we regularly raked the tips of the front on those "temporary" fenders in of camber turns,

so I knew that the deck needed to "go away from the rig" in the area just behind the center of the tires.

This is probably the best side-view picture that shows you the compound angle I had to do on the deck to keep the deck away from the fifth over the tire area.

Mind you also that my ET sits directly on the bottom flange which puts it 4 inches lower than all the other ETs (and 47 inches).
I have enough clearance now but it still looks pretty "scary" in the turns.

So, the solution is to slope the deck away from the fifth, or have Marsha angle up the corners of the overhang.

hjs
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:06 PM   #49
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All well and good, Henry. But I'm not modifying the truck bed. It is built and it is staying "as is". If the trailer can not bu built to work with the truck, then I guess I'm just not going that route....I'm quite happy with our New Horizons. I'd love to have a semi, but I'm not starting another truck build to get it.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:55 AM   #50
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Just finished sending my current truck and hitch measurements to Marsha. Have indicated that I am willing to remove the deck, but don't want to plan to do any additional modifications to the Truck in the immediate future. I also need to get an answer on where I can put the entry door that won't have me having to squeeze through beside the car to get into the living area. Don't want to have to move things in the living area, for a door.

Rod
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:46 AM   #51
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Has anyone looked at my floor plan?

Haven't seen any comments so was wondering? Am getting ready to pull the trigger.

Rod
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:13 AM   #52
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Rod, do you know the plate height of the trailer hitch, and the clearance from the plate to the body?
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:43 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by lappir View Post
Haven't seen any comments so was wondering? Am getting ready to pull the trigger.

Rod
Just a few thoughts:

The two slide-outs on one side are very close together with almost nothing in between. Almost begs the question, why not one big one incorporating both. That's a very big hole in the sidewall. I don't believe Marsha is a fan of full wall slides.

I don't know "how thick the Murphy bed is". Seems in your version there is less clearance into the corridor to the garage with the bed up.

hjs
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:59 AM   #54
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Thanks Jack and Henry,

I don't yet have the measurements of anything other than the front to back floor plan. I have drawn it out on the shop floor at my brothers garage and did a walk through. That's when I decided to put both slides on the same side. (Marsha's initial drawing had them on opposite sides. ) I thought briefly about asking about a full length slide and decided it wouldn't be worth the potential issues, with opening and closing. Have just eliminated the windows that would face each other.

I guess I do have the measurement of the Murphy. It extends 18 inches from the wall when in the closed position. I actually was able to see one in a trailer a few weeks ago when I visited Marsha.

The plate height on my truck is 46 inches. Don't have the measurement of the pin. Have been trying to speak with Marsha this week but was notified last night she would be out of town till next week and said I should call and speak with Wyatt. Hopefully will get some time to do that today while at work. Didn't get a chance yesterday to call Marsha as I had planned.

This for me is a big decision. I will want to not do another build , once I start this. I have instructed Marsha to ensure anything inside during the build will fit out through the door to the garage. She reports it will. I haven't redrawn the current floorplan on the concrete yet, but will before I sign off on the plan. There is one spot remaining for this year and I'd like to secure it. Won't be done by the Rally, but will be done before I head to Florida. ( If I act now.) I will email my latest questions and answers to Jack and Henry that I have received from Marsha.

Rod
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:19 PM   #55
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Floor plan

Rod,

Is this pretty much the floor plan you are going to build??

If so then you probably need to look carefully at your pin weight - front kitchen's are heavy on the pin and you might get close to your hitch limit.
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Old 08-16-2013, 10:31 PM   #56
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One more thing on that floor plan. You'll obviously have a larger interior space with them opposite each other... but

The way they build the longer slides (over 9 feet I think) is to add a second drive motor and supports. I'm not sure what your length is but you might save a few dollars by having a single longer slide rather than two separate if you move them to the same side.

If you find a savings in having a single longer slide you could put a pantry/cabinet between the table and the couch to make those separate spaces or leave them mostly open to make the living area feel larger, perhaps using a post and/or shallow cabinet for structure. Either way (pantry or post), it would also add structural support for the "center" of the long span.

Just thinking....
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